putting gear-oil in your T100's rearend

11268 Views 16 Replies 5 Participants Last post by BamZipPow, Sep 17, 2009

Hartzog

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2009

2

this is a first try at kind of a DIY post, lol

first, i cleaned off any dirt etc from around the bolt.
Tools needed-
old rag
grease remover(greased lightning)
8inch vice grips
a small hammer(i used a 2.5lb mini sledge

ok, so here we go
first off, after you cleaned it off, do the following

then, take the hammer tap the jaws on the bolt fully, make sure you get them really tight, now tap the back handle of the vice grips, and it should come off, it will look like this once you get it off

now you can just add the gear oil into the hole, until it is level, MAKE SURE TRUCK IS ON LEVEL SURFACE!
now once you get the gear oil in, just put the bolt back in, tighten it the same way you got it off, and you should be done
like always, i would clean the area once you get the bolt back on, to make sure you have it tight enough and make sure it isnt leaking, if you clean it, and after a while theres grease there, of course, you should figure out fast its leaking, lol

there ya have it

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BamZipPow

· #2 · Apr 13, 2009

Actually...if yer taking the bolt off...the best way fer the vice grips to do the work without stripping the bolt head is to switch it so the non-adjustable side is on the left and not on the right as you have it pictured.

You shouldn't have to tap the locking mechanism to fully lock the vice grips. It should be really firm to lock them but not to the point where you had to pound it closed. You do have it locked on the flat sides of the bolt which is the correct way vs on the points of the bolt head.

Also...you should use the poor man's creeper fer a surface like that. I bet them rocks didn't feel very well, eh? Poor man's creeper you ask? Cardboard....

Hartzog

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 13, 2009

no you misunderstood, tap it to get the bolt of, not to close the mechanism!!

IM USED TO THE ROCKYNESS, LOL IT AINT THAT BAD, I HAVE A RUBBER MAT FOR WHEN I HAVETA LAY ON MY BACK

Hartzog

Discussion Starter · #4 · Apr 13, 2009

The Top Picture Was The One Where I Was Putting The Bolt Back In, My Apologies, Lol Flip The Vice Grips Around For Removal

BamZipPow

· #5 · Sep 7, 2009

I figured another way of putting gear oil back in to the rear axle if you can't git the fill bolt off. Of course this method does have a drawback...you can't really tell the oil level easily.

You pull the breather valve out and pour it in through that hole. Of course, you'll have to measure what you take out to make sure you put in the same amount. If it was leaking, they you'll just have to measure out the amount yer putting in.

Zuke76

· #6 · Sep 8, 2009

Can you do a DIY thread on the draining them and one on the front diff and transfer?

ChipNOreo

· #7 · Sep 10, 2009

you can just add the gear oil into the hole, until it is level, MAKE SURE TRUCK IS ON LEVEL SURFACE!

You mean until it is level with the hole? I have been wanting to attend to mine but haven't had time. Also, dumb question, what kind of fluid do you put in it? will the stuff actually say "gear fluid" on it? or...?

BamZipPow

· #8 · Sep 11, 2009

ChipNOreo said:
You mean until it is level with the hole? I have been wanting to attend to mine but haven't had time. Also, dumb question, what kind of fluid do you put in it? will the stuff actually say "gear fluid" on it? or...?

You want the truck on a level surface so the fluid level isn't biased to the front/back/left/right.

Yes...you want "Gear Oil"...I'd recommend synthetic 75W-90...you'll need just over 1 quart fer the rear axle.

ChipNOreo

· #9 · Sep 12, 2009

Does it need to be drained first? Or just add more?

BamZipPow

· #10 · Sep 14, 2009

ChipNOreo said:
Does it need to be drained first? Or just add more?

Unless you know the condition of the oil...it's probably better to drain it all and then refill it with new...kinda like yer engine oil.

ChipNOreo

· #11 · Sep 14, 2009

Well I drained and refilled my rear diff gear oil, looks like I needed it

. Thanks for this lovely post that inspired this

ew!!

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BamZipPow

· #12 · Sep 14, 2009

Um...milkshake means you definitely need to do the remote differential breather mod.

ChipNOreo

· #13 · Sep 14, 2009

Bam, what is this mod of which you speak?

BamZipPow

· #14 · Sep 14, 2009

ChipNOreo said:
Bam, what is this mod of which you speak?

Search can do a forum member good...

ChipNOreo

· #15 · Sep 15, 2009

ah, that good old search. thanks!

NORTY

· #16 · Sep 15, 2009

It's always a good idea to change your axle lubricant if you dip the axle in water. Such as with a boat trailer launching duty. The fluid above has water in it, that's why it looks ugly. Depnding upon your climate, you can use 75W-90 or 85W-140 (that's in mine.)

Another thing~ Gear oils are not measured on the same scale as crankcase oils.
30WT engine oil is equivalent to about an 85WT gear oil!

Because the definition of "90W" is so broad, it's equivelent to 40WT sae (about 42WT) to 50WT sae (beyond 59WT!) engine oils.
140 is off the scale for engine oils.(It varies from 24 to 41 [email protected])

BamZipPow

· #17 · Sep 17, 2009

Just changed out my gear oil since I didn't know it's true condition since I got the T-100. Didn't feel like dropping the spare tire to add in the gear oil so I built my own device to git almost all (except fer about 1oz) of the gear oil out of the container.

My device is just some 5/16" ID (inside diameter) clear hose (about 16") and cut the top of one of the caps to fit the hose snugly. Installed another cut cap on the fresh bottle of gear oil. Put the nose of the cap into the differential and squeezed as much of the bottle into the differential (about 16oz or half the bottle). Put the hose/cap on and made sure the hose reached the bottom of the bottle, tightened the cap, and squeezed the rest of it in. Yes, it took a few squeezes but I got it done. I used Supertech 75W-90 synthetic gear oil so it flowed pretty easily. I ended up putting in about 2.5qts of gear oil.

Yes...I know you can buy one of those pump things fer about $10 or so but I didn't feel like making a run to the store just fer that when I already had some hose. I guess you could use any hose from 1/4" ID and up as long at the cap can support the OD of the hose. Obviously, the bigger the inside diameter...the better the flow will be and you will have less squeezing to do. Clear hose works best as you can see the gear oil flowing.

The stuff that came out of my differential wasn't too bad...the new stuff going in looked like motor oil though.

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