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Question about a wagon with ABS

2774 Views 29 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  71Corolla
There is a 1990 wagon for sale here, blown/rusted brake lines. Apparently it is the line(s) that go from the ABS module to the back of the car. According to the estimate from the dealer, the engine has to be pulled to replace the brake lines, is this true?

The car is a V6 BTW.
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i could see why for the ABS as i believe on the ES250 and V6 models that the line ran somewhere close to the engine in a few awkward spots. However, it wouldnt be hard to remove the engine quickly to replace the line if that is indeed the case.
I don't know, but I doubt it. I bet that it is true, it you try to install OEM lines, in the original location.

I just looked at my 4 cyl. The lines run down between the motor and firewall. It will be a real bear to work on them, in the stock location. The dealer is going to put them back in that location. Toyota designed em that way and they won't deviate from that (just guessing).

But, if you were to find a way to route them in a dif location, I bet that it could be done.

You'll have to look at the car for yourself.
I have looked at the car but I could not see any bad lines. Plus I could not get under the car enough to really inspect for any damage. I stared at the service manual diagram for awhile but can't be sure if any of the lines run continuously from the ABS unit to the back of the car.

ABS is a rare option from what I've seen, so if I need a line specific to an ABS equipped car I might not be able to find it, especially if the wagon has different parts versus the sedan. That is really what gives me pause about buying this car. That and I can't go for a test drive. :lol:
Still looking at the wagon huh? Good luck to you on your search for info/parts, I'm sorry and can't be of any use to you on this one.
Bought the car. While I was waiting for the tow truck, noticed a few things right away. The snorkel is leaking, heard a hissing sound and quickly found out why. The heater control valve doesn't work/move, very likely cold solder joint on the control. The ABS light is on, but I would imagine that's because there is no brake fluid in the system at all. Needs a RH headlight there's a hole in it. Good tires (and two winters in the back along with the spare), two missing mud flaps :facepalm: Interior is really good, no broken pieces. The factory lip is actually in good shape but I hate these things I'll put on the '91 version when I get a chance.

The brake lines appear to be damaged near the front pinch weld/jack point, that area is a bit crushed I think the brake lines took a hit and eventually gave out. Should be a fairly easy fix if that's all that is wrong, I'll check the price of the two lines at the dealer if it's not too much I go that route. Or I'll just custom bend my own.

Can't believe I ended up with two V6 Camry's, same year and colour even. :lol:

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Congrats Mark, if you need some more parts from the South (mudflaps and the like) let me know. I hope you get it back to its former glory, at least it's not too bad though not like mine when I bought it. I'll take that plastic lip off your hands :)
If you ever come across good mud flaps, grab em by all means. The lip, hmmmm if it can be shipped we can work something out.
Do you need another whole set?
I actually only need the two on the passengers side, in black. I'll take any colour though they can be stripped or painted. I found a possible source for new ones, has anyone ever ordered from this place? The description says "Custom Molded Fit" so it sounds promising.

For shipping the lip, if it can be warmed up a bit and bent into a circle so it fits in a reasonably sized box it might be doable.
Never heard of them, when I check the list of vehicles they fit it shows 88-06, curious. The best thing to do is to call them up and ask about how exact the fitment really is. If you want the mud flaps I'll pick you up a pair, I should hopefully be heading into the yard tomorrow with a half page list of parts to grab.
If you find some good ones get them for sure.

I called Toyota earlier the brake lines going to the back of the car are still available, but one of them would have to come from Japan. :eek: I'm hoping to have time to get a good look at the lines to see exactly what's going on with them.
Put fluid in the system and found the source of the leak, there is a pin hole on the line that goes to the rear left wheel. The ABS light did go out when there was fluid in the reservoir. Has anyone replaced this line? It looks like I might have to drop the gas tank the line runs behind it.

Pin hole on the other side of the line where I circled.

The only other thing I found wrong with the car was the power mirrors don't move in all directions, broken wires in the drivers door loom very likely. BTW the dealer estimate to repair was $3200+ they had on the invoice to replace ALL brake lines including the ones going to the ABS unit. :wtf:
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Another update.

Well, I got lucky and found a 1991 wagon at the yard the other day. Pulling these lines is a major pain, there is precious little room to work under the hood and near the gas tank. The wagon also has the LSBPV which is right at the top of the frame, hard to get at. I was just barely able to get the lines out without dropping the tank.

Cleaned up the lines and painted them with POR-15 the other day, just finished installing them on my car now. I won't lie, this job is not easy, trying to fish the lines into place is a major challenge without bending them too much, never mind the fact that it's easy to thread them in wrong and you have to start again. Having the car on a lift would make the job much, much easier.

Took the car for a quick spin for the 1st time, car runs nice but the brakes are spongy there is still a lot of air in the system because it was run completely dry.

FYI, the lines going to the back of the car are the same if you have ABS or not, 4 cylinder or V6 doesn't matter either. But it must be a wagon because of the load sensing valve.

Couple of questions: Mist feature (pulling forward for one swipe) on the wiper control doesn't work. Cause? Car does not always start right away it takes a bit of cranking to get it running. After that it runs perfectly.
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Glad to hear that you can at least start and stop now...which part of the mist function doesn't work? Is it the wiper arms or fluid or both? I had to replace my combination switch on mine just after I got it when a co-worker broke a stalk on accident and when I tried recently to get the washers to work I found out the switch wasn't wired the same as another one I got. After replacing a cruise control style with an intermittent model it works just fine.
The wipers don't move when you pull the stalk forward. Yea it was good to actually drive the car, feels almost exactly like my '90 sedan except for a bad rattle in the passenger door. I bet it's a clip that broke that guides the door handle rod, all of my gen2's have had this part break at one time or another.
It occurs to me that now its time to do that bottom dash swap on the new one right?
lol no :lol: this baby is staying bone stock. Well now that I think about it I have most of the parts, but not gonna do it I'm burnt out on this stuff for now.

Maybe next year.
Pulling the stalk towards you should just be the 'single wipe' function. The switch on my Alltrac is a bit finicky and take a little wiggle up and down to get the single-wipe to work. Its not bad enough for me to want to replace it though... The mist part could be blocked spray nozzles, clogged line or bad pump - but that's a press on the end of the stalk. The wagon pump is different than the sedan pump due to the rear wiper function, I think (though it might have dual pumps like my WRX wagon)

Hard starting - that's probably a problem with the cold start injection system. Clogged cold start injector or bad time switch.

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