question on cv axle

4179 Views 10 Replies 6 Participants Last post by RobMilkshakes, May 4, 2009

eric berthelet

Discussion Starter · Apr 13, 2009

i have to change the cv axle on my 90 corolla i just bought and ive never done it before. i know my way around cars i was just wondering if theres anything special i should no before buying the axle which i dont even no the price of and replacing it?

Save

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

AE92ROLLA91

· #2 · Apr 13, 2009

eric berthelet said:
i have to change the cv axle on my 90 corolla i just bought and ive never done it before. i know my way around cars i was just wondering if theres anything special i should no before buying the axle which i dont even no the price of and replacing it?

You're going to need an axle puller and a slide hammer, or you may be able to do it with a ball joint tool or a pry bar but the axle puller is best. You probably should change the axle seal when you remove it also so you'll need a seal puller too.

Other than that I think you just pull the lower ball joint, pull the axle nut, and I think you can get it out.

The first time I did it I took off the brakes and stuff too, thinking I needed to, but the last time I left all that stuff together and it worked fine. my axle was broken though

Save

eage8

· #3 · Apr 13, 2009

I did it fine with no axle puller. some times they're nice and easy to get out, other times they're a bitch. I had 1 of each. I just used a really big screw driver as a prybar and it did the job.

Save

RobMilkshakes

· #4 · Apr 13, 2009

No slide hammer/axle puller tool here. I've done it twice just using a big ole screwdriver to pull the axle from the differential, and for the lower ball joint you can just unbolt it from the lower control arm. What I did was disconnect the tie rod and lower control arm from the knuckle, tapped the axle with a piece of wood and hammer and swung the whole strut and knuckle out of the way.

I strongly recommend replacing the seal, I didn't the first time and had practically all the fluid leak out of the differential, which on the automatics is seperate from the transmission fluid(which at the time I didn't know), no wonder the damn thing didn't grenade on me.

Save

toyotaspeed90

· #5 · Apr 14, 2009

If your car has original axles it should be "one piece" axles.... you probably bought a reman that requires a core -- you won't be penalized if the core comes apart....

you'll need a 30mm axle nut to get the axle end nut off.... lift the car, remove the wheel, unbolt the two lower strut bolts, pull the hub towards you and to the right... push the axle end out of the hub (after you have removed the 30mm nut) and you should be able to just barely slide it out... pull (yanking) on the axle until it pops out... it only has a circlip holding it in place.... how easy or difficult it pops out depends on how wide the circlip was set..... it can be difficult and it may fall apart.... don't worry, just toss all parts into the box. If it comes apart, then use a prybar to pull the remaining stub shaft.

You will want to drain the trans prior to pulling the axle --- because if you don't, then it will drain the diff once the axle comes out. If it's an AT you'll have to pull the pan (get a new filter and seal) if it's an MT just pull the 24mm bolt at the very bottom of the transmission, facing the driver side. It's a large/flat bolt.

Install in the reverse. (FOR AN MT

Filling the trans can be done 2 ways... through the fill bolt on the middle of the trans facing the front of the car, or if you're good you can pull the speedo drive gear and fill the diff. You should need about 2.6-2.7 quarts total.

See less See more

Save

AE92ROLLA91

· #6 · Apr 14, 2009

If you remove the two lower strut bolts the alignment will be off!

You can remove the lower ball joint and accomplish the same thing without having to go to an alignment shop when you are done..

The cam bolts that adjust the alignment go in the lower strut bolts so in my opinion thats not the way to go

Save

RobMilkshakes

· #7 · Apr 14, 2009

toyotaspeed90 said:
If it's an AT you'll have to pull the pan (get a new filter and seal)

if its the A131L, the 3 speed, the diff is actually seperate, and has its own drain plug and fill hole on the back side. no pan pulling. the diff I believe holds 1.5 quarts.

If anybody ever wants to look up capacities and recommended oil types, check out this link(for product of course they say their brand synthetic, but still a good guide, I use it at work all the time)

http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index

Save

toyotaspeed90

· #8 · Apr 14, 2009

meh, I don't work an automatics

if you're concerned about your alignment being off.. buy a grease pen and mark it.... I would have to look again, but I believe it just uses an alignment bolt..... mark where the head is in relation to the strut.

plus if you disconnect the ball joint (which is more difficult) and pull the stut out, you will be stressing the upper mount. In my ae92 it doesn't move much since I have solid mounts.

Save

A20A1

· #9 · May 2, 2009 (Edited)

You've all been a big help so far.

I'm working on a 1992 Automatic AE92L / A131L / 4AFE

The location of the Model number / code and Transmission code were on the sticker on the Driver side door. Previously I had thought it was the metal plate bolted to the Transmission.

Apparently I have the A131 which is the three speed
I didn't know that differential fluid was separate, but it drained partly after I removed the driver side axle, at the time I was trying to figure out if it was Motor Oil or ATF.

I got the Driver side axle out by removing the Brake Assembly and hanging it from the spring to remove any load or stress on the brake lines. then I unbolted the Strut from the front knuckle and hammered out the outer spindle. For the inner spindle I removed intake and the metal cover above the inner CV joint and using a crow bar to gently slid the axle out. The oil seal was a pain to get out. I had to search long and hard to find something to hook it out. The new oil seal had to be hammered in, I used a block of wood and a hammer. Applying pressure to the outer rim of the seal only as to avoid hammering on the flared extrusion. If I had a SOCKET wide enough I would use that to hammer in the seal as it would apply a more even pressure to the seal, and would have room to avoid hitting the thin rubber extrusion.

So looking at the Amsoil site I gather that the Differential uses Dextron II ATF just like the Transmission.

I will try and locate the 10mm Bolt to fill the Differential.

* My markings for alignment on the two lower strut bolts were not made properly and wiped off, so the cars probably due for an alignment.

See less See more

Save

A20A1

· #10 · May 4, 2009

Is the Differential Fill Bolt a 17mm head? I'm actually gunning for a new wrench set since I doubt I can fit a socket in such a cramped space anyways.

I'm disappointed I couldn't get the bolt off but the car needs to be driven regardless. :ugh3: I can only hope that what spilled out and what is left inside the diff is enough to last till I can get proper tools. Good news is there are no leaks from the seals yet, I hope it's a result of proper sealing and not simply from lack of fluid.

On a side note I found a plethora of other general maintenance that her car is in need of; New Valve Cover Gasket, PCV valve, a vacuum hose or two, etc. When I replace the valve cover gasket and the oil/oil filter I'm painting the valve cover and heat shield. :thumbsup:

Save

RobMilkshakes

· #11 · May 4, 2009

if I remember right the fill plug is 17mm. Its a bitch to get to though, but to get it off, I just used a 17mm box wrench and my skinny arm lol. I had to go from the top since there's a cross member on the underside of the car right there.

Save

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month