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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi, experts:

My 2009 Camry has serious battery drain issue for a year. The leakage current when car is off is measured at 250 or 350mA. I tried to disconnect fuses one at a time, and found the fuse #8 (white) in the engine compartment is the culprit. The current drops to a very small number when I disconnect fuse #8. But the diagram shows that this fuse is "Not Used".

I started the car with fuse #8 disconnected, seems that everything works fine, with a few exceptions: the digital clock, interior lights, door courtesy lights are all off, which seems to be related to fuse #15 (ON) though.

Can anyone give me some hints what fuse #8 is for and what is the next step I should do to fix the issue totally and bring back the interior lights? I really appreciate your advices!
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think that fuse gets put in during the PDI so those other things aren't drawing the battery down while it's sitting on the boat.
Thank you for the reply. Does PDI stand for pre-delivery inspection? I would assume I can pull fuse #8 off then but the smart key system, interior light, digital clock, etc are all off power (all are related to fuse #15, but fuse #15 is in)

Any suggestions? If no easy solution, I will have to send the car to garage store for an inspection and repair.
 

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What engine?

The "SHORT" fuse is connected to the DOME, ECU-B, and RADIO fuses so one of these fuses are the source of your parasitic drain. Seemingly, ECU-B has been an issue for a lot of these types of drains. So determine which of these fuses are causing your drain. Then trace the EWD to determine the potential source. If you would like more help, I can see what I can do. Just let me know.

This EWD is freely available online via Google Search.

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ECU-B goes to a whole lot of stuff so don't be too surprised of it is that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ECU-B goes to a whole lot of stuff so don't be too surprised of it is that.
ECU-B goes to a whole lot of stuff so don't be too surprised of it is that.
If I keep fuse 8 on, and then put in fuse 15, 16, 17one at a time I got current read:
fuse 15 DOME: 100mA
fuse 16 ECU-B: 70mA
fuse 17 RADIO: 140mA -> I replaced factory radio with Pioneer AVH-2300NEX multimedia recevier
all 3 on: 240mA or 340mA

They all have problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The drain started after radio replacement, but not right after. It's hard for me to tell the gap between them now, maybe after one year?

even DOME current (100mA) seems quite high, not sure if ECU-B (70mA) is normal or not.
but RADIO (140mA) is obviously high.
 

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Disconnect DOME or RADIO and just let it sit. If you know the timespan which kills the battery, see if either of those two does it. Probably start with RADIO.
 

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Are you measuring these after letting the car sit for a while? As in, hook up the meter and walk away for 10 minutes, then take a reading? Some of these modern cars have stuff that stays on for a bit after they are shut off and the doors are closed.

I don't know specifically for this one, but just an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Are you measuring these after letting the car sit for a while? As in, hook up the meter and walk away for 10 minutes, then take a reading? Some of these modern cars have stuff that stays on for a bit after they are shut off and the doors are closed.

I don't know specifically for this one, but just an idea.
That's a good suggestion. Will do it tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Are you measuring these after letting the car sit for a while? As in, hook up the meter and walk away for 10 minutes, then take a reading? Some of these modern cars have stuff that stays on for a bit after they are shut off and the doors are closed.

I don't know specifically for this one, but just an idea.
You are right. The current drops in all cases I tested if I leave the car sit for 5mins:

f I keep fuse 8 on, and then put in fuse 15, 16, 17one at a time I got current read:
fuse 15 DOME off: 140mA
fuse 16 ECU-B off: 130mA
fuse 17 RADIO off: 1mA
all 3 on: 150mA
So the radio is the culprit! Very likely due to my bad wiring to install AVH-2300NEX receiver. I will trace it down to exact wire. I will post back my findings

Thank you everyone for good suggestions. You saved me a day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Did ya cut the factory wire connectors or use the harness adapters?
I cut factory wires to connect to my receiver. I am not sure if the receiver is defective or my wiring is bad

My DIY is a little complicated. I installed AVH-2300NEX receiver, maestro for wheel control, rearview camera and park break bypass.

I tried to disconnect every wire between car and receiver, but didn't see a big current drop (I waited at least 5mins every time). I found if I disconnect the connector (bigger one, which I think it controls audio system), the current drops to 10mA. Hasn't got time to find which wire is drawing the current yet. The connector drivers 4 speakers (grey, white wires) and power/signal/etc.

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Those are the radio harness adapter kit I was talking about your factory wires are not cut. The big connector has the battery voltage, the ignition supply the ground and the front speakers the small connector with the purple and green wires does the rear speakers. The yellow wire on the radio side is the constant battery supply for the memory and the red is the ignition reference to turn on. Cut the yellow wire and see what happens. If it stops drawing power your radio is shot
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Those are the radio harness adapter kit I was talking about your factory wires are not cut. The big connector has the battery voltage, the ignition supply the ground and the front speakers the small connector with the purple and green wires does the rear speakers. The yellow wire on the radio side is the constant battery supply for the memory and the red is the ignition reference to turn on. Cut the yellow wire and see what happens. If it stops drawing power your radio is shot
I tried to disconnect yellow wire, current.still remain 140mA. I also measured current through yellow wire, it is almost 0
 
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