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Discussion Starter #1
My GF's '89 Camry DLX 3S-FE 140E developed what I believe is rod knock after I Seafoamed and revved it up. I had to limp it about five miles home with teeth-gritting rod knock and now I get to fix it.

Here's my current plan: remove motor and transmission, tear into bottom end of motor and see if new con rod, thrust and main bearings will get it into spec. That's about $50 worth of parts. I would also service the transmission with a new filter, since it's out.

In my searching the forums I've found mention of leaving the transmission in the car while the motor is out. Is this to avoid having to buy the SST for putting into the front hub where the axles go? I have not pulled an automatic tranny off a motor before. What else needs to be bolted together/attached besides the bellhousing?

Plan B, if the crank is scored or I can't get things into spec, is to order a 3S-FE motor from www.jdmtigerjapanese.com . It should be about $500 to my door. Since I have an '89, I'll need to make sure the new motor has the correct flexplate, right? Old motors had six bolts, new had eight?

I hope to get this car back together again, I just got the dome light fixed and then I break the motor. :sosad:
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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You may be able to do to the bottom end bearings with the motor in the car by pulling the oil pan. If bottom end bearings are your only problem, this might be the best way. There aren't really any special tools necessary to pull the motor/trans combo if you choose to go that way.

If you get a japanese motor, make sure you do all the rubber seals you can find, along with the timing belt and water pump while its out of the car. Then just put your original intake and exhaust manifolds on the motor and everything should bolt up just fine. You can use any 'early' 3s-fe (round spark plug boots) as long as you get the flexplate with it.

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Charlie.

I'm planning to pull the motor because I don't think you can plasti-gauge all the bearings and check crank thrust play with it in the car. If I'm wrong and I can do a proper inspection with the engine still in the car, I'd be ecstatic. Anyone done this before?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Where is the inspection cover at on the transmission? I was under the car a bit tonight and didn't see it. Will it become blatantly obvious once I crawl under it some more?

Also, which bolts do I remove in that area to separate the motor and tranny? Should I remove the bolts in the inspection plate area then the bellhousing bolts, with the tranny supported?

I'm pretty close to being able to pull the motor, I think. Should be able to finish it tomorrow evening then spend the next few days seeing what let loose in the current motor.
 

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Bullitprooph
1991 Celica GT-S
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Where is the inspection cover at on the transmission? I was under the car a bit tonight and didn't see it. Will it become blatantly obvious once I crawl under it some more?

Also, which bolts do I remove in that area to separate the motor and tranny? Should I remove the bolts in the inspection plate area then the bellhousing bolts, with the tranny supported?
The inspection cover is fairly easy to see, once you're under there. Typical aluminum crescent-shaped cover (same as on manual trannys) on extreme lower portion of bellhousing. Three 10mm and one 12mm bolt, if I recall correctly. To separate motor and tranny, remove: 2 starter bolts (14mm); 4 14" upper tranny bolts (remove 2 from front and 2 from top, on tranny side); and three lower bolts (one at front, two at back of the block, and they are bolted-in from the engine side).

If you're separating the engine and tranny, be sure to unbolt the passenger side half-shaft bearing bracket form the back of the block. If you leave the tranny mount partially bolted while removing the tranny-engine bolts, all you need to support the tranny with is a good floor jack (a big one). Just be sure to chain the engine up to your hoist before you drop the tranny! Or at least block the oil pan with a jack and a 2x4.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Another question: the factory service manual says to raise the car and remove some parts, including the suspension lower crossmember and the engine mount crossmember. The engine mount crossmember is the jack point. Where do you place the floorjack after removing the crossmember?

Also, after removing those two crossmembers the engine and tranny won't come crashing down, right? Just makin' sure. :lol:
 

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You can pull tranny out while leaving the engine in, but you have to pull both the engine and tranny as one unit, if you are going to work with engine. The reason to take crossmembers out is to lower down the tranny end and then lift the engine tilted toward the passenger side.Without crossmembers, the powertrain will still be supported by tront right and transaxle mount. Haynes book has a good pictures in section 2-C how to pull the four cylinder engine. Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ah, crap, I guess I misread. Looks like both the motor and tranny are coming out. Time to look up how to pull the axles.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've got the driver's side axle pulled. I'll get the other one pulled this evening, which will leave the following before pulling the motor/tranny:

1. Power steering pump
2. Front exhaust pipe
3. Engine mount center member
4. Engine mounts

I should be able to knock that out tomorrow, hopefully while it's still light.
 

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3s-gte in a Camry?!?
'89 Camry Alltrac
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and:

wiring (pull into the engine bay from the ECU)
radiator, other fluids
fuel lines
and a bunch of other little things...

-Charlie
 

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Discussion Starter #14
and:

wiring (pull into the engine bay from the ECU)
radiator, other fluids
fuel lines
and a bunch of other little things...

-Charlie

Wiring is done, radiator is out, fuel lines disconnected. I'm certain there's a bunch of little things hanging around the back of the motor, of course. :)

I assembled my new engine stand and hoist last night. I really hope I can manage to pull the motor/tranny when it's light out, doing things by shop lamps sucks.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Two exhaust nut/bolt sets were thoroughly corroded and didn't come off without taking part of the clamp with them. :sosad: I guess I'll have an exhaust shop fix something up there for me when the motor or new motor gets installed.

I completely forgot I needed to get bolts to hold the transmission end of the engine, so I pulled a tranny mounting bolt out and got some longer grade 8 bolts to hold the motor on the stand.

Tomorrow should be: remove left and right engine stays, attach chain, remove mounts then lift engine/tranny assembly out.

The last step is sure to be all kinds of fun, though. :ugh3:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Motor and tranny came out with a minimum of fuss. It took a bit less than 15 hours of work to pull it, should be closer to half that next time.

I appreciate all the advice and tips. :)
 

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Great pictures.
If you going to drop in a used motor, you have to re-use your original flexplate as in 1994 the foreign 3Sfe (Jap and Euro markets), had different flexplate (6 bolts but different # of teeth).
To insure vibration-free operation you have to mark relations between flexplate and Torque Converter, verify that both alignment pins are present and (the best ) check the flexplate and TC hub for run-out
 

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2002 Camry
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Nice pictures!
Having done the used-japan-engine route myself, you must be in the middle of it now. For my 2 cents worth my advise is carefully compare the new motor to the old!

When i replaced my 1985 Nissan 200Sx 2.0 with used japan here is what was different:
-Old intake manifold ports were square and the ones on new engine were oval. (Solution: The old intake manifold simply got installed and the difference in port shape ignored, the engine never ran as well as the old one though...)
-Cooling pipe for lower rad hose on old engine was horizontal and one on new one was at a 30 degree angle and blocked installation of the intake manifold. (solution: Heat engine block carefully - remember yours is probably aluminum - yank out old pipes and swap them, again using heat to press fit)
-valves were adjusted or worn way too tight, i should have adjusted them before installing the valve cover but didnt. (Add .002 to cold valve adjustment specs if all you can find is hot valve clearance measurement)

Like the photos, got any more? Good luck on this project!
 
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