Replace the radiator cap by new OEM one for the beginning.
I just came back from driving the car about 20 minutes ago. I will let the vehicle sit for a bit longer to let the engine cool then check if my radiator level is low by removing the rad cap. If I had to guess I would say it's still full or atleast close to it seeing as my reservoir bottle level seems normal now. If anything the car wouldn't keep all the fluid in the reservoir bottle if my rad was bone dry..I'd think it would serve it's purpose and push the fluid back to the rad..I could be wrong though.yeah, it's possible if it was overfilled. my 5s-fe spitted out some fluid too shortly after flushing and refill a year ago.
you should make sure though that system has no air in it. is the fluid up to rad filler neck after removing the rad cap ? don't do that when HOT, or at least use some thick rags around it.
Ok so let's add a couple things to the equation. As you had mentioned the car still seems to be pushing fluid from the reservoir bottle back to the rad. In some instances when the fluid I guess gets super hot it begins boiling over and slowly pouring out the cap of the res bottle back into the fender engine bay area. As of four days ago my fans were not functioning and therefore the car was overheating and the Gauge would go closer to the red (3/4 the way). So I'll assume since I'm no mechanic that the car is NOT overheating since replacing the fans and the fuse, it engages the fan operation normally.Its normal for fluids to go back and fourth between the res and the block. Its expected. Just because it dumps into the res does not mean its boiling over. If it routinely boils over you'll see the reservoir overfill and dump inside the fender. You would likely see the temp climb as the engine begins to over heat.
If this concerns you and you need an answer for your sanity, grab one of those laser temperature gauges and shot it at the water outlet before and after the thermostat. Depending on your elevation, glycol mix, and radiator cap, you might expect to see a reading of 224f as it boils over. Purging into the tank at lower temperature is more than likely just the water expanding as the block heats.
You could also by some OBDII scanning software/hardware too and glean some more data!
I'd think the balance period would be like a one time event. My concern here is I'm not going to say its OK and then have you burn your engine up. Any other details to share?Ok so let's add a couple things to the equation. As you had mentioned the car still seems to be pushing fluid from the reservoir bottle back to the rad. In some instances when the fluid I guess gets super hot it begins boiling over and slowly pouring out the cap of the res bottle back into the fender engine bay area. As of four days ago my fans were not functioning and therefore the car was overheating and the Gauge would go closer to the red (3/4 the way). So I'll assume since I'm no mechanic that the car is NOT overheating since replacing the fans and the fuse, it engages the fan operation normally.
Is it possible that the system simply is pelt pushing air out of the system being it's over filled and eventually this will all go back to normal operation? Seems after doing a rad coolant change in my 96 it did this very same thing and eventually over time the problem vanished..
Am I nuts or is this definitely an issue? As of now if the needle stays at the half way mark as it should be I'm not worried driving it..but can any of this do any damage with hot rad fluid leaking to the engine bay area??