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Camry rear bumper replacement instructions

Reference car: 1993 Camry sedan

Tools needed

Rear bumper cover
10mm medium-deep socket
#2 philips (stubby useful at mudflap)
Trim retainer pry tool
Appropriate driver for license plate screws
8mm socket/wrench if you remove the taillights

Good to have
Penetrating oil e.g. PB blaster
Drill/driver for 10mm and #2 to speed up removal

Before you start on this project, verify that you can remove the license
plate screws and the three 10mm head bolts holding the reinforcing bracket
at the center bottom edge of the bumper cover. These are the fasteners
most likely to be rusted in place. If they, apply the penetrating oil and
give it time to work.

Start by removing the fasteners reachable from the outside
three 10mm head screws holding the lower center bracket
Each side has (moving from the center out)
two plastic retainers -- push the center pin through and pry out
two #2 head screws on the lower bumper edge
two #2 head screws on each side holding the mud flap
- The third screw into the body can remain in place
one 10mm head screw pointing up

Next pop off the plastic trunk liner retainers and fold back the liner
The center liner has three retainers on the lower edge that fit over
metal pegs
The side liners are held by tough retainers pushed into holes.
Only three retainers on each side at the trunk opening need to be removed

Remove the final interior screws and nuts, all with a 10mm socket
Three screws on each side (6 total) into the side supports
Ten nuts along the bumper upper edge

Disconnect the electrical plug going to the license plate lights and
push the grommet through the hole. Alternately you can partially remove
the bumper cover, awkwardly hold it in place with your knee, and twist
the two lamp holders out of the lens assembly.

Spread the sides slightly to free them from the wheel well and pull the
bumper cover off.

If you need to replace the metal bumper beam, it's held in place by
three bolts each side reached from underneath. Mine had 16mm (or 5/8") head
bolts, although I expected 17mm.

Replacement is the reverse.

Don't forget to put the foam energy absorber in place first. Turning
around and seeing it after it's all back together is no fun. Verify
that all of the rubber grommets are in place on the upper mounting
strip. Route the license plate light wire harness through the opening
in the foam. Lift the cover into place and start the wires through the
hole in the body. Don't plug it in yet.

Loosely install the two nuts by the taillights. If you have trouble
aligning those studs, you can remove the taillight lenses (two 8mm head
nuts) to get better access.

Pull the license plate wire harness in the rest of the way, massage the
grommet into place, and plug it in.

Install the rest of the interior nuts, then the side screws, leaving
them all one or two turns loose. Finally install the two 10mm head
screws at the wheel well mud flaps.

Give the cover a few nudges to make certain that it's centered, then
tighten the nuts and screws from the center out.

Install the lower center bracket, starting with the center screw -- it's
the only one not slotted for adjustment. Install the rest of the
fasteners from the center outward.

Finish up by folding the trunk liner back into place and installing the
license plate. The side liners go down first, then the center liner,
and finally pull the bottom carpet out if it's trapped. Make certain
that the liner is smooth before putting the annoying plastic retainers
back into place.
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