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Long time lurker here, I’m trying to install my sub and amp and tap the factory sub. How do I remove the rear deck to get to the wiring?


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This is my first post, I was compelled to register as I wanted to express the complete pain in the butt it is to remove the rear deck. I have the JBL system and with that comes the super awesome rear deck rattle/buzz from the stock sub. I have read that you can get to the rear deck without removing the rear seats, this may be possible if you are a small person, small as in Peter Dinklage small. Before you attempt this process, you should know there is already moulded rubber foam underneath the rear deck, tons of it, which you would think that would prevent any rattle, wrong. Don't nail me on terminology, I am an engineer not a mechanic.

Here is what you will need:

Patience
Ratchet/Driver with 14mm and 12mm sockets (not 100% sure on size)
Nylon/Plastic pry tools
Tiny torx security bit (for the middle seat seatbelt)

Here is the process:

Follow this guide http://www.tcamanual.com/rear_seat_assembly-809.html it's for a Camry, not for an 18 Camry but the principal is very close. THE SIDES HAVE AIRBAGS IN THEM BE VERY CAREFUL.

Once you remove the rear seat, backs and sides, you will need to remove the rear pillar covers. These covers actually lock into the rear deck cover. Do not attempt to remove the rear deck until the rear pillar covers are removed, use your nylon pry tools for this, the weather stripping around the door does not need to come off. There are airbags behind the pillar covers as well.

Ok now you are clear to start removing the rear deck. Start with popping the 2 plug covers. There are 3 clips that hold the rear deck down, slowly work the rear deck cover up, do not use excessive force. Once the clips release you can start to pull the rear deck cover toward you. DO NOT PULL the cover out until until you unplug the 3rd brake light.

That's it, just reverse the process to put everything back.

My original idea was to put Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Overkill Pro all over the rear deck. When I opened the rear deck and saw it had what I think is polyester molded foam already there I just added the Overkill Pro layer, this resolved the rattle. If you are upgrading the sub or adding a sub there is not a ton of space, it's very cramped.

I hope this helps.
 

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This is my first post, I was compelled to register as I wanted to express the complete pain in the butt it is to remove the rear deck. I have the JBL system and with that comes the super awesome rear deck rattle/buzz from the stock sub. I have read that you can get to the rear deck without removing the rear seats, this may be possible if you are a small person, small as in Peter Dinklage small. Before you attempt this process, you should know there is already moulded rubber foam underneath the rear deck, tons of it, which you would think that would prevent any rattle, wrong. Don't nail me on terminology, I am an engineer not a mechanic.

Here is what you will need:

Patience
Ratchet/Driver with 14mm and 12mm sockets (not 100% sure on size)
Nylon/Plastic pry tools
Tiny torx security bit (for the middle seat seatbelt)

Here is the process:

Follow this guide http://www.tcamanual.com/rear_seat_assembly-809.html it's for a Camry, not for an 18 Camry but the principal is very close. THE SIDES HAVE AIRBAGS IN THEM BE VERY CAREFUL.

Once you remove the rear seat, backs and sides, you will need to remove the rear pillar covers. These covers actually lock into the rear deck cover. Do not attempt to remove the rear deck until the rear pillar covers are removed, use your nylon pry tools for this, the weather stripping around the door does not need to come off. There are airbags behind the pillar covers as well.

Ok now you are clear to start removing the rear deck. Start with popping the 2 plug covers. There are 3 clips that hold the rear deck down, slowly work the rear deck cover up, do not use excessive force. Once the clips release you can start to pull the rear deck cover toward you. DO NOT PULL the cover out until until you unplug the 3rd brake light.

That's it, just reverse the process to put everything back.

My original idea was to put Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Overkill Pro all over the rear deck. When I opened the rear deck and saw it had what I think is polyester molded foam already there I just added the Overkill Pro layer, this resolved the rattle. If you are upgrading the sub or adding a sub there is not a ton of space, it's very cramped.

I hope this helps.

Yeah, 6' 280#...I'm not getting back there. I'm tired of the rattle, too. Thank you for the guide from your experience. It will be helpful when I hire someone to do precisely that for me.
 

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Could someone possible post a picture of the rear JBL deck lid speaker with the cover off? I have the JBL audio and I too am noticing the buzzing rattling noise and I have tried a lot of ways to remedy it.
 

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Could someone possible post a picture of the rear JBL deck lid speaker with the cover off? I have the JBL audio and I too am noticing the buzzing rattling noise and I have tried a lot of ways to remedy it.
I dont have the JBL package but I would assume the rear decks of all trims are the same. Except JBL has a sub there while every other trim has a hole and molding. Heres a picture of mine with a Kicker in it. I have zero rattle, only thing that I notice is my sub touch the deck cover because im thumping it too hard.
296756
 

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2019 Camry XSE 2.5L A25A-FKS
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I dont have the JBL package but I would assume the rear decks of all trims are the same. Except JBL has a sub there while every other trim has a hole and molding. Heres a picture of mine with a Kicker in it. I have zero rattle, only thing that I notice is my sub touch the deck cover because im thumping it too hard. View attachment 296756
Usually aftermarket subwoofers requires an enclosure that is air tight for strong base.
How was the sound quality on yours?
 

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Usually aftermarket subwoofers requires an enclosure that is air tight for strong base.
How was the sound quality on yours?
I think it is quite amazing for it being on the rear deck. Compared to my 7th gen Camry, i had 2 tangbands 6.5 there and whatever i did to soundproof it, there was always a rattle. The 8th gen, even though only one speaker hole (8inch), imo it produces good enough bass. I would say if you are thinking about throwing an 8 or 10 in and go free air like me, i say do it. You wont have to worry about the trunk rattling or taillights rattling due to a ported box. I think theres too many discouraging free air thats why no one does it, but honestly i can say it is good. If you want to, i can make a video and give you a demonstration of my setup.
Earlier i said the cutout was 8, is because i measured wrong and bought a 10 inch and didnt fit, so instead, i kept the 10 inch and bent the hole to fit my 10 inch. You can see what i mean in my picture. And also i want to note, i did not use any screws to secure the sub. It is all held by butyl rope. And if you think thats unsafe or silly, dont criticize until you try ;) it is sturdy and does not move and i dont have to worry a out spaces between the sub and deck.
 

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I think it is quite amazing for it being on the rear deck. Compared to my 7th gen Camry, i had 2 tangbands 6.5 there and whatever i did to soundproof it, there was always a rattle. The 8th gen, even though only one speaker hole (8inch), imo it produces good enough bass. I would say if you are thinking about throwing an 8 or 10 in and go free air like me, i say do it. You wont have to worry about the trunk rattling or taillights rattling due to a ported box. I think theres too many discouraging free air thats why no one does it, but honestly i can say it is good. If you want to, i can make a video and give you a demonstration of my setup.
Earlier i said the cutout was 8, is because i measured wrong and bought a 10 inch and didnt fit, so instead, i kept the 10 inch and bent the hole to fit my 10 inch. You can see what i mean in my picture. And also i want to note, i did not use any screws to secure the sub. It is all held by butyl rope. And if you think thats unsafe or silly, dont criticize until you try ;) it is sturdy and does not move and i dont have to worry a out spaces between the sub and deck.
I am not criticizing, however, I still prefer the sub to be in a box as it sounds much better
 

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Usually aftermarket subwoofers requires an enclosure that is air tight for strong base.
How was the sound quality on yours?
Every sub is different. Some do well in a sealed box, some do better in ported boxes, and some are designed for infinite baffle (free air).


I am not criticizing, however, I still prefer the sub to be in a box as it sounds much better
Sound quality wise, a proper free-air sub install will provide a flatter, more musical low end compared to a sealed or ported box, which can also sound completely different depending on enclosure size, port size, etc. A free-air sub can also play louder with less power since they do not need to overcome the compression of an enclosure. The main drawback is that it can be difficult to get a perfect seal between the front and the back of the speaker, which is critical for it to work properly. The way OP did it is probably fine but I would try to find a way to secure it with screws or bolts at some point down the road.

There are many world-class SQ championship cars running free-air setups, and some hardcore HT guys run them at home by mounting their subs facing into their listening while the rear wave vents into the basement or attic.

Claiming that using a box would sound better is ignorant when a) you’ve never heard how this one sounds, and b) you’ve probably never heard a good free-air sub setup.
 

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I think it is quite amazing for it being on the rear deck. Compared to my 7th gen Camry, i had 2 tangbands 6.5 there and whatever i did to soundproof it, there was always a rattle. The 8th gen, even though only one speaker hole (8inch), imo it produces good enough bass. I would say if you are thinking about throwing an 8 or 10 in and go free air like me, i say do it. You wont have to worry about the trunk rattling or taillights rattling due to a ported box. I think theres too many discouraging free air thats why no one does it, but honestly i can say it is good. If you want to, i can make a video and give you a demonstration of my setup.
Earlier i said the cutout was 8, is because i measured wrong and bought a 10 inch and didnt fit, so instead, i kept the 10 inch and bent the hole to fit my 10 inch. You can see what i mean in my picture. And also i want to note, i did not use any screws to secure the sub. It is all held by butyl rope. And if you think thats unsafe or silly, dont criticize until you try ;) it is sturdy and does not move and i dont have to worry a out spaces between the sub and deck.
I'm glad you're happy with the setup. I did a lot of research on this type of setup for my last car and want to share a couple suggestions:

-The RMS and max wattage ratings are usually based on the subwoofer being in an enclosure. In a free-air setup, it takes less power to move the subwoofer since it's not fighting the air inside an enclosure. That sub will bottom out if you try sending max rated power to it, so if your amp is pushing that much, I'd try not to go too crazy with your levels.

-The sub probably feels sturdy now, but butyl rope dries and shrinks over time. Combine that with the vibrations from the subwoofer and over time the seal will get worse and subwoofer output will suffer.

-The right way to do this IMO would be to make an MDF baffle to mount the subwoofer to. The inside diameter should match that cutout in the rear deck. The outside diameter should be large enough to screw the subwoofer into, ideally an extra 1" or so. Secure the baffle underneath the rear deck, and then mount the sub behind/underneath it. If you're comfortable drilling, T-nuts or hurricane nuts work excellent here. As a bonus, with the sub underneath you won't have to worry about hitting the rear deck cover.
 

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Youre definitely right on that part. Running free air subs are less favored by most but all my free air setups have been great for me. To each their own i suppose. Its not going to shake the block but why would i want to attract unwanted listeners. I will post a video later today and hope my phone isnt a crappy phone.
 

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Whats your opinion on downfiring the sub in this case? Then reversing the polarity?
Run it the way you have it for a week or so, and then swap the polarity and see if it sounds better. Your amp might even have a phase switch on it which would do the same thing.

No reason to downfire it IMO, and it'd be a lot more work.
 

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Every sub is different. Some do well in a sealed box, some do better in ported boxes, and some are designed for infinite baffle (free air).




Sound quality wise, a proper free-air sub install will provide a flatter, more musical low end compared to a sealed or ported box, which can also sound completely different depending on enclosure size, port size, etc. A free-air sub can also play louder with less power since they do not need to overcome the compression of an enclosure. The main drawback is that it can be difficult to get a perfect seal between the front and the back of the speaker, which is critical for it to work properly. The way OP did it is probably fine but I would try to find a way to secure it with screws or bolts at some point down the road.

There are many world-class SQ championship cars running free-air setups, and some hardcore HT guys run them at home by mounting their subs facing into their listening while the rear wave vents into the basement or attic.

Claiming that using a box would sound better is ignorant when a) you’ve never heard how this one sounds, and b) you’ve probably never heard a good free-air sub setup.
that is true I have not heard his free air setup. However, I did try it on my Lexus and it did not sound great until I put a sealed box. Also everyone has different tastes.
 

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So heres a quick video i made. My phones recording is not that bad. First time taking a video with it ha. But doesnt give my subs any justice. You can hear it in the second half as i fade it to the sub, the buzzing you hear is not rattling but me thumping it too hard and its hitting the deck cover. Plan is already in place to cut and free the space in front of the sub.
 

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I dont have the JBL package but I would assume the rear decks of all trims are the same. Except JBL has a sub there while every other trim has a hole and molding. Heres a picture of mine with a Kicker in it. I have zero rattle, only thing that I notice is my sub touch the deck cover because im thumping it too hard. View attachment 296756
How did you remove the fuzzy liner material that lives above the foam? Plus, did you have to remove the rear seats? (Hopefully not)
 

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How did you remove the fuzzy liner material that lives above the foam? Plus, did you have to remove the rear seats? (Hopefully not)
I did remove the rear seats but thats not required, but sure does make access easier. Basically getting to the rear deck is like the older camrys. You have to remove the back side cushions and then youll be able to take the side panels off, then flip the rear deck. Its a process but once you do it, it gets easier the second and third time around. You dont have to remove the seat that folds, but its the cushion part you sit on. Removing the cusion gives you access to the bolts to the side cushions.
 

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I dont have the JBL package but I would assume the rear decks of all trims are the same. Except JBL has a sub there while every other trim has a hole and molding. Heres a picture of mine with a Kicker in it. I have zero rattle, only thing that I notice is my sub touch the deck cover because im thumping it too hard. View attachment 296756
Hey Roflberries, how did you manage to take out the rear panel. I am having difficulty finding directions for it. This is the same thing I had in mind with my Toyota 2020 Camry non JBL.

Thank you in advance.
 
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