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Discussion Starter #1
Hi again, noticing that I have a hard time seeing and finding the rear latch button in my 2018 highlander because it's all the way to the right side of the set of knee buttons (buttons by my left knee). I would like to rearrange these buttons so it's all the way on the left side of them byjust pulling out the molding around it and (keeping all wires attached to the buttons) simply moving the buttons to a different spot in the same panel. But how the heck do you remove that black paneling right around those buttons?

Also, anyone know how much extra length in the wire they've left behind there?

Thanks!
 

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Pls see this in the DIY sticky thread:

I rearranged my buttons too, and added a cubby.
Pics of before and after attached.
Note you need to shave off the "notches" along the buttons in order to fit the buttons in the different slots (see pics below also).

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks dchobo, that looks awesome. I found your PDF instructions on the other page, very detailed (thanks!) but boy is that a lot more work than I thought I'd need to do to remove these little panels.

I don't plan on putting in the bucket like you did but really just take that top row of buttons and rearrange them withing that top row. Are the tabs for this top row also all different from each other in the same row like you showed on the lower set of button area?

Why would they be different tab formats anyway, seems like they should be able to just plug and play into any of those...can't figure why they made it so unless you filed down tabs, you couldn't rearrange these....
 

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I bought a few aftermarket switches on eBay (through a Tocoma parts seller) for my tinkering habits, luckily they were all precise fit without having to modify the fitment...

image1.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That seems like a much easier fit....however, did your top row of buttons in your picture all have different tab placements from each other. Could you have simply swapped the lifgate button on the top far right to the top far left without having to reconfigure tabs on the sides of the button? Thanks.
 

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Thanks dchobo, that looks awesome. I found your PDF instructions on the other page, very detailed (thanks!) but boy is that a lot more work than I thought I'd need to do to remove these little panels.

I don't plan on putting in the bucket like you did but really just take that top row of buttons and rearrange them withing that top row. Are the tabs for this top row also all different from each other in the same row like you showed on the lower set of button area?

Why would they be different tab formats anyway, seems like they should be able to just plug and play into any of those...can't figure why they made it so unless you filed down tabs, you couldn't rearrange these....
The PDF was done by another forum member - the credit goes to him!

Below are some pics of the slots with all the buttons removed. You can see the top rows and bottom rows don't match. I think all the tabs are different so that the assembly worker cannot possibly put the buttons in the wrong place.



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Discussion Starter #7
OMG, that is assinine. Totally sounds like what Toyota would do but who cares if they put them in the wrong place, they would all still be there....not to mention their choice of placement is awful!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
dchobo, after seeing your great pics of the panel without the buttons, it doesn't look like the dash is take apart. Were you able to get the buttons out without removing all the trim pieces in the PDF? Thanks!
 

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dchobo, after seeing your great pics of the panel without the buttons, it doesn't look like the dash is take apart. Were you able to get the buttons out without removing all the trim pieces in the PDF? Thanks!
I followed the instructions in the PDF... so yes, I took it apart. I don't think you can get the buttons out without removing the trim and dash partially. After all, you need to push the switch button out from the inside, and also disconnect the cable wire to the switch in order to move them around. So I don't think there's a quicker way.

It's actually not too bad. Use those plastic pry tools. (I used my son's lego pry tool : https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/brick-separator-630). You also don't need to remove the dash completely (see Step 7). As long as you have enough space to insert your hand, you're good. I also installed my remote starter pretty much using the same trim/panel removal steps.

On putting the dash back, make sure you line up the tabs back to the slots before pushing it in. I had a hard time putting the dash back before finding out one of the tabs at the BACK wasn't aligned.
 
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