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So I have a 2010 toyota camry with the 2arfe engine and the u760e transmission. It's around 135k miles and the transmission decided to start slipping after a fluid flush. I went to a transmission shop and they suggested installing a zip kit witch I did and it's even worse after more new fluid got in. I'm getting a short time replacement transmission coming in so I can have drivability again, but I'm debating if I should rebuild the old transmission or just swap to a manual. And yes it will be turbocharged in the future. The cost for the rebuild on the automatic is minimum 3.5k.
 

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Hi don’t do you either yet. I drive 2011 Camry LE 2.5L i4 2AR-FE with U760E AT/MT 6 speed with the 8 speed gears (3rd and 4th “speed” have an gear so compensate for the “normal lag between ”speeds” to engage). I did my Transflluid change, my only one, after 204k miles, I drove for Uber in L.A. usually 12 hours a day pre pre Covid.
At around somewhere between 135-155k I started to notice that while I was 55-65 MPH (2200-2500rpm) the car would “rattle” very subtle but you could feel it on the gas pedal and underneath your feet, similar but not quite the same as driving over a really wide rail road track. It Would almost ”lunge” when the clutch finally locked up the gear it need with what the engines Computer was asking from the tranny.
Then once it found the gear the car would rev up 2-400 rpm before settling and driving fine.
HOWEVER, it was not the speed, that caused it to that, it was the clutch. This is typical for these tranny’s. This is what I recommend.

NO MORE TRANSMISSION FLUSHES.
DO IT THE LONG WAY. Drain the 2.5-3 Qts that come out when you undo the Tranny drain plug and “straw” (super gentle w straw btw) and then refill and drive car for 600 miles.
I share the link on how to do this.
I advise when you ur done with this method to let the car idle for 15 minute, then drive in Auto, at 10mph, then 15 mph, the 25, then 35 mph, then 45mph, then at 55 mph for longer time than all the others. THAT WOULD ALLOW YOU TO RAMP UP TO what would be 4th gea. THE MOST IMPORTANT GEAR, that is when the motor and the tranny are at 1:1, meaning this is the gear or speed if in MT mode that ur car uses to drive highway speeds, so Let the ECU and PCM “talk to each other” that’s how your car knows what to do. Let the Tranny flluid expand and help keep the clutch from “slipping”, it’s why your car lags or lunges or shudders or revs up.
The other issue is this selenoid that will drive you fkn crazy trying to find it so no matter where you get USE VIN# there are 2 types for the same car, TRUST ME USE THE VIN.
The selenoid is referred to as “Clutch Stop“ , TCC or Throttle Control Clutch, or “LOCK UP“ selenoid.
These selenoids go bad after 100k usually and so there is nothing wrong with your tranny.
Don‘t have it flushed again, change the fluid the “slow way”, those vaccums they use don’t just suck out all the fluid they also dry out all the parts and strip any of the fine shaving that helps the clutch maint the “lock” abd not slip.
that’s why I highly recommend replacing the selenoid. ITS WHY THE TRANNY SLIPS, ITS NOT LOCKING, thats what this particular selenoid communicates. Im almost 100% that that’s why it was slipping to begin with.

HOWEVER NOW THAT YOU DID THE FLUSH AND ITS WORSE. WATCH OUT. I BET U DONT HAVE ENOUGH FLUID. I DONT GIVE A FCK WHAT THEY TOLD U. U NEED TO CHECK IT AND SEE IF IT DRAINS. Remember, that the fluid isnt just 6.9 qt of liquid, it expands, those fkn vacuums leave bone dry, then what happens when they fill it to spec at 6.9qts?
What about the fluid that was in tbe gear box to lube the parts, the valve body, ect...6.9 might be spec but some of that fluid will instan be lost to heat transfer, to the spaces it needs to fill and lube again. Im sure you need at least 4-6 ounces more and probably more like 1-1.5 qt after a few days of the fluid working it self in.
BUT THE THATS THE SECOND REASON, important nonetheless. GET THE SELENOIID.
Selenoid is $300 at dealer or use the link I provide and pay $54 from Canada OEM FOR REAL.
After I did the slow tranny fluid change once and replaced selenoid I was having to hit the brakes the car was driving so much better.
ONLY DOING THE FLUID THE SLOW WAY GOT RID OF SOME OF THE SHUDDER IT WAS NOTICIBLY A LOT LESS.
BUT THE SELENOID GOT RID OF ALL OF IT.

Selenoid



fluid change.


SUPER BORING ITS UR TRAN FLUSH EXPLAINED






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So I have a 2010 toyota camry with the 2arfe engine and the u760e transmission. It's around 135k miles and the transmission decided to start slipping after a fluid flush. I went to a transmission shop and they suggested installing a zip kit witch I did and it's even worse after more new fluid got in. I'm getting a short time replacement transmission coming in so I can have drivability again, but I'm debating if I should rebuild the old transmission or just swap to a manual. And yes it will be turbocharged in the future. The cost for the rebuild on the automatic is minimum 3.5k.
Have them reset adaptive values. Check with Toyota for any software updates, and the TCM module don;t these have a problem child external module that is known to have issues? I am asking on that last bit not telling.
 
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