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Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok, as some of you may know, I build alternators and starters for a living. I took a series of pictures of a Paseo alternator that came through my shop not long ago, figured I'd post the info here.


First you have the unaltered alternator, remove the 3 nuts, maybe one bolt, ground plate and battery insulator.


Should look like this now..


You'll see the two tiny srews holding in the brush holder, make sure the screwdriver fits properly or it will strip them out!!!



Simply replace the whole assembly then put it back together. This fixes 98% of alternator issues.


 

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More than awesome info!!!! Thanks!:D

I do have a question: Is there a particular spray cleaner that is used to clean the outer windings before they are repainted?
 

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Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Rycam
I clean the windings with a glass bead blaster before repainting, gets off all the loose stuff and makes a good foundation for the paint.

88camry
There is no kit. I order individual parts for whatever I need, this is what I do for a living. We have most anything in stock, what parts do you need?
 

· I get angry when Im sober
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it is possible to rewind your own alternator or is it something to leave to the professionals? also is there anyway to just swap out parts so that it creates more amps or again is that something to be left the professionals? and last of all would you be able to build a higher powered alternator for any of us?
 

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Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Stealth said:
it is possible to rewind your own alternator or is it something to leave to the professionals?
The parts you can get to under the cover on rear are easy to replace and anybody that can feel when to STOP tightening a screw can do this with no problem. Beyond that it's best to leave to a pro unless you have a few spares to practice on.

also is there anyway to just swap out parts so that it creates more amps or again is that something to be left the professionals?
The japanese have put as much windings in the housings as will fit. The only way to get higher power from a specific size alternator(nippon denso that is) is to increase the voltage regulator's capacity. I use a # F-540HD that I get from a company in Florida called TRANSPO or if I need even more power I'll get a POWERLINE . Beyond that you use a later year alternator from the same model car.


and last of all would you be able to build a higher powered alternator for any of us?
If you need one, sure. On 4banger camry's I can sell up to a 250amp Delco that bolts right on with only a few minor mods(adjusting bracket and wire harness), or large frame
NipponDenso
alternators with regulator either modified to fit your wiring plug, or supplied with a plug and simple directions to swap ends. Later model cars sometimes have different plug types.



 

· I get angry when Im sober
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How much would it cost me for a 250 amp? I'm going to be doing competitions in maybe half a year, or less hopefully, and will definately need something much more powerful. Also my friend with a 93 V6 is going to need something, maybe not quite as powerful though.
 

· I get angry when Im sober
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Eh a bit late here, since I lost track of the topic. But I would need you to prefab it since I'm not so great at making things, especially out of metal.
 

· N/A bites
Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The 250 with the standard adjustable regulator and the wire harness that connects them to each other goes for $600. If anybody is really interested in one I'll find out what the bracket mods would cost and let you know. To build a 120 amp alternator would be far cheaper for me and you as long as that's all the car needs. I can build the 120's for $250. These should fit with only minor mods and plug up to your existing regulator connector. As always when increasing the power make sure you increase the wire size to handle it and keep it fused.
 

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Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ALTERNATOR 4 2.2 132 5SFE 12th VIN Digit = 0 1-1964-01ND ND IR/IF 70

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ALTERNATOR 4 2.2 132 5SFE 12th VIN Digit = U 1-1857-01ND ND IR/IF 80
 

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2007 Lexus IS250
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I recently bought a remanufactured alternator off eBay, which promptly quit charging only a week later (no returns of course). I drive a '93 Corolla, which was built in Japan and came with the 70-amp Denso unit. My factory alternator still charges fine, but the only problem is that the bearings are on their way out. I do know the problem with the alternator I bought is in the alternator itself, as its regulator and rectifier work just fine on my factory unit. Since I have this extra alternator sitting here and gathering dust, I already replaced the worn brushes from the factory alternator with the ones from the reman one.

So my questions are:
Is it imperative that the other parts are changed, or do you think they will be fine for a few more years?
Could you elaborate more on the pulley nut removal? What kind of air tools are necessary to remove it?

Thank you very much in advance! This is a great gesture for the board!
 

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Paseo
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The brushes and the copper rings they ride on are the wearing parts besides the bearings. If the regulator and diodes are working good then continue to use them. If they appear crusty or look like they were hot then expect to replace soon.
On the pulley I use the same tool that most shops use to remove wheel nuts. Stop by one and ask them to use a 7/8 socket to remove the nut.
 

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alternator rebuild parts

Nice !!! :clap::clap::clap:
I have always wanted to rebuild my alternator, but I never found a rebuild kit for my 1991 Tercel 3EE AutoTrans alternator.
I want to rebuild my original (nippon denso) alternator and make it high-output.
The one I bought from Auto Parts is a piece of junk. The voltmeter shows 14.2 volts on idle with all accesoaries off. As soon I start the head lights the voltage drops to 12.5 volts (at 800 rpm). It is getting worse because I have fog lights and 1000W amplifier with subs installed.
With all accesoaries on (heater, lights, wipers and stereo at max) and engine rev to 3000 rpm I only see 12.9 - 13.1 volts. At normal driving speed (engine at 1500-2500 rpm) I am loosing power from the battery and I need jump start after a stop. :thumbdown
I need bearings, tri-diode and high output voltage regulator for the original alternator.

What is the best choice for voltage regulator and where I can buy it?

The sites I checked have only a catalogs to browse, but no online purchase is available.
F-540HD and POWERLINE
Do you order by phone or else?
I am electrician so I have no problem to install the POWERLINE.
Is it better to install the Powerline? How mush Amp I could expect from that?
I you sell these, what is the price for all items?

Thanks.
:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
 

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This looks great. How do I participate? I went to the web site and looked up parts. I understand that there is no rebuild kit, but I am rebuilding my motor and I am looking at the alternator, I would like to clean it and replace wear items. Things like bushings, bearings, and brushes. The copper on the slip ring (28-82853) looks pretty good and I could polish it to get rid of little grooves.

I really just don't want to stick this thing back in with 120K miles on it. It has been sitting for 6 years and when I turned it, it made a clicking noise. Can you let me know the details to order the parts and a list of parts to order?

My alternator is NIPPONDENSO 100211-611
Looks like I want this for just wear items:

39-8203 - Brush Assembly
10-3042-4 - Bearing
10-2021-4 - Bearing

If I am worried about electronics, I would get this as well
INR732P - Rectifier
IN434 - Regulator
 

· TN TE/AE/SW Afficionado
1986 4-Runner
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1) what sort of shop can I take these to to get it reinsulated?

2) where did you find the part numbers for that alternater? the ND website?

edit: wait so where can i buy this paint?
 
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