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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just received a rebuilt engine for my 2001 Toyota Camry CE 2.2L. Threw it in and used all new gaskets for water pump, intake manifold, head, etc. I go to start it up and it starts smoking really bad, idles rough, stalls and throws misfire codes. So I take it back apart just to see that there was coolant in all 4 cylinders. So I replace the head gasket and get all new head bolts throw everything back together, torque to spec + 90 degree, get everything timed and thrown back together with again a new intake manifold gasket, new oil, everything. Head to start it and it sounds good for the first 3 minutes or so and it idles nice. A couple minutes later it starts to idle rough and then the idle drops and it dies. It again throws misfire codes for cylinders 1 and 2. All plugs have spark, coil packs are good, wiring is right, block and head don't seem to be warped checked using a machined straight edge. It is most definitely getting fuel I replaced the fuel pump not that long ago, fuel relay is new, fuel rail isn't clogged, injectors working perfectly tested each individually, even checked fuel pressure and that is perfect. Good compression in each cylinder. Did a cylinder leak down test, doesn't seem to be any leaks. I wouldn't think it would be a failing O2 or cam sensor because I would definitely get a code. No idea what it could be. Any clues?
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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Can you get the engine to warm up to closed-loop mode?
Or does it start well, then idle rough -> stall every time from cold start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Can you get the engine to warm up to closed-loop mode?
Or does it start well, then idle rough -> stall every time from cold start?
It always starts well and sounds good then idles rough and stalls from a cold start. I don't think it ever gets to operating temperature especially since the radiator fans don't ever turn on and I don't want to keep starting it over and over to get it up to operating temperature and run it too long just to end up warping something. Going to use a borescope sometime today to check if coolant is still getting inside somehow. It could be dying once it gets to closed-loop but once it stalls it starts right back up and runs for a couple minutes before stalling again. So I'm not sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What about plugs and wires? Are they new? Has the EGR valve been looked at?
Plugs and wires are brand new. Coil packs aren't the issue either. I definitely haven't looked at the EGR valve and will do so. I just didn't think about it since there were no issues with it when I had the previous engine in there.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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It's a tough one to diagnose, the more (Scanner) diagnostic data you can get, the better. If you have an "old school" vacuum gauge, hooking that up / observing during the warm up may help. Disconnecting / plugging the EGR valve hoses "should" take it out of the equation, as a diagnostic test.

IAC valve won't throw DTC codes, would (re)check that.

Vacuum hoses / routing won't throw a DTC, would also reconfirm that. And connectors to the sensors: Crank/Cam/ECT/MAP/TPS/Intake Air Temp. sensor.

If here, I would be observing Engine Coolant Temp. (ECT) on the scanner, during cold-start -> warm-up, to see if the issue is occurring at a consistent temp. reading. If so, and depending on temp., that may shed some light if the issue is "open-loop -> to closed-loop" related.

What about the upstream O2 (or AFR) sensor? Any concerns there?
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Would also try reinstalling the (old) wires on plugs #1 and #2, if you still have them, just to confirm a new wire "out-of-box" isn't causing you grief.
 

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'93 LE Wagon V6 '94 LE I4
'93 V6 wagon, '94 I4
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That coolant in the cylinders is troubling on a rebuilt engine. You might want to remove the plugs, crank it over and observe if any coolant blows out. If it does you may want to reassess possible warpage of the head or block. Another possibility is the Idle Air Control Valve leaking coolant into the intake due to a crack or bad gasket.
 

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Did YOU rebuild, or did you buy a rebuilt??
Leakage involving two adjacent cylinders means head gasket, head crack, dead soft head or cracked block.
None of these are good.
This is how I would proceed:
Compression test, wet and dry.
Coolant pressure test.
Lastly a leakdown test.

The head is suspect, for me. I have seen a Hyundai four's head so overheated that it took all the hardness out, and the aluminium was then dead soft. Found out when the machinist tried to surface it. That makes a head garbage.
Toyota heads are not known for cracking, but if you bought this engine, you have no idea of what went before, nor the quality of the rebuild.

Just FWIW, I have rebuilt a 5SFE, and 15 months later it is in daily use by my daughter-in-law. No issues whatsoever.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did YOU rebuild, or did you buy a rebuilt??
Leakage involving two adjacent cylinders means head gasket, head crack, dead soft head or cracked block.
None of these are good.
This is how I would proceed:
Compression test, wet and dry.
Coolant pressure test.
Lastly a leakdown test.

The head is suspect, for me. I have seen a Hyundai four's head so overheated that it took all the hardness out, and the aluminium was then dead soft. Found out when the machinist tried to surface it. That makes a head garbage.
Toyota heads are not known for cracking, but if you bought this engine, you have no idea of what went before, nor the quality of the rebuild.

Just FWIW, I have rebuilt a 5SFE, and 15 months later it is in daily use by my daughter-in-law. No issues whatsoever.
I did buy it rebuilt. I didn't do it myself. I already have done each of the tests you mentioned except for the coolant pressure test. I would hope the guy I bought it from did everything correctly but then again who knows. You're absolutely right but I wouldn't like to think the worst just yet especially because I just spent a shit ton of money on this engine just to have a cracked/warped head and block
 
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