[sailor]

Hi everyone:
The new OEM bed I bought for my 1987 Toyota 4wd is still in Toyota factory primer and ready to paint. This bed was bought several years ago by the seller and sat in his garage for several years after his 1988 truck was totaled before he had a chance to mount the new bed. I found it by luck.

Anyway, do you have a recommendation on buying a spray gun. I would like to limit my spending to maybe $125 for the gun. I rarely paint and just want a fairly good gun to paint the bed. I also might buy another gun for touchup.

What size needle should I purchase? It seems like a 1.4 Topcoat Spray Gun would be OK? I plan to use Omni black enamel with a touch of hardener. Do you have recommendation on brand for the price above.

I have an old conventional Sears spray gun that was recently used to paint a fender with enamel and the quality was OK but it sprays on paint pretty heavy. The gun is like new but is almost three decades old and originally used to paint a fender on my 73 challenger with lacquer! Guess it is time to upgrade to some new gun technology.

Thanks for your recommendations.

 

[jamon8]

take the gun apart before you buy it and make sure that there are no o-rings

just nice close tolerance machined aluminum

I use a 1.5 to spray enamel clear and primer but thats just me

 

[psyco_nutball]

still in Toyota factory primer and ready to paint

bastard... bet you paid almost nothin for it too? lol my last bed kinda half fell off (that was the condition the truck was given to me in) and the one i have on it now has a bunch of holes in it.

i didn't have any thing useful to say sorry, but i am also interested in buying a paint gun as well so any info tossed out in here is good

 

[sailor]

bastard... bet you paid almost nothin for it too? lol my last bed kinda half fell off (that was the condition the truck was given to me in) and the one i have on it now has a bunch of holes in it.

i didn't have any thing useful to say sorry, but i am also interested in buying a paint gun as well so any info tossed out in here is good

I paid $1250 for the new OEM bed (top-end of my budget) and drove 1400 miles round trip to pick it up in a rust free state. The beds were sold by Toyota for $2130 several years ago. I looked at used beds and thought a fiberglass bed might be my only solution until finding this gem within driving distance. I also wanted to restore the truck to original condition.

Here is a picture of the bed temporarily mounted on the truck. I will take it off this weekend in preparation to paint it when the weather gets warmer. I also want to rustproof the frame which has been cleaned up before the trip. Regards.

[/IMG]

 

[sailor]

take the gun apart before you buy it and make sure that there are no o-rings

just nice close tolerance machined aluminum

I use a 1.5 to spray enamel clear and primer but thats just me

Thanks for the reply. I will look for guns on sale over the next few weeks. I wish it was warmer here - I really want to get the truck painted and out of storage!

 

[denniswoo]

you are not going to get a decent gun for under 500.and if you are asking about what needle to use you might want to have someone spray it for you.with the price of spray equipment it is cheaper to take it to a paint shop in the long run.

 

[jamon8]

I paid like 100 bucks at lowes for a ingersoll-rand 270g

not a sata but does the job

 

[sailor]

you are not going to get a decent gun for under 500.and if you are asking about what needle to use you might want to have someone spray it for you.with the price of spray equipment it is cheaper to take it to a paint shop in the long run.

Thanks - I asked a couple of places in town on how much it would cost to paint a brand new fender and they wanted around $350 to $450, which was pretty expensive in my eyes for a fender not even on the truck. I did it myself with my old gun and it looks pretty good. I asked a restoration shop about painting the bed and they said it would be around a $1000 to paint the bed. I figured for that much I would do it myself. The shops seem to be focused on collision work rather than one offs. Thanks for your suggestion.

 

[sailor]

I paid like 100 bucks at lowes for a ingersoll-rand 270g

not a sata but does the job

Thanks - I will take a look at one today.

 

[sailor]

bastard... bet you paid almost nothin for it too? lol my last bed kinda half fell off (that was the condition the truck was given to me in) and the one i have on it now has a bunch of holes in it.

i didn't have any thing useful to say sorry, but i am also interested in buying a paint gun as well so any info tossed out in here is good

Hey: I found this website which has forum on paint shop tools:

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/archive/index.php/f-9.html

I like the guys arguing about which guns are better, etc.

 

[79Corona]

I always heard that Binks was the best. Go to Earl Sheib for the paint job, then buy stripes from Toyota or paint shop.

 

[cjohns]

Hvlp

Hey Sailor!
Try harborfreight.com for your gun. You can get an HVLP w/20 oz. cup stock with a 1.4 needle and nozzle for about 60.00 or less. Also you can get a detail gun (HVLP) which is not too bad. You can score both guns and stay within your budget. I am a painter by trade (35 yrs.). I use Iwatas, Accusprays, SATA's. I also use the harborfreight guns for primers and sealers but would not be afraid to use them for color/clears. When they are ready for a rebuild I just toss them and get new ones. (They are so cheap!) The key is how you adjust the gun. Turn the material adjustment all the way out then start turning it in as you go to get a nice lay out without making it to dry or to wet. Just follow the directions for air pressure setting, fan adjustment and application speed.
You can make just about any gun do what you want it to.
Not a bad gun for the occasional user. Clean it well with a good solvent. DO NOT soak them in solvent but run solvent through them. This will prevent the "o" rings from deteriorating.
P.S. Omni is not bad stuff but is transparent material. You may want to put on an extra coat if you are going to buff it!
Hope this helps!

 

[sailor]

Hey Sailor!
Try harborfreight.com for your gun. You can get an HVLP w/20 oz. cup stock with a 1.4 needle and nozzle for about 60.00 or less. Also you can get a detail gun (HVLP) which is not too bad. You can score both guns and stay within your budget. I am a painter by trade (35 yrs.). I use Iwatas, Accusprays, SATA's. I also use the harborfreight guns for primers and sealers but would not be afraid to use them for color/clears. When they are ready for a rebuild I just toss them and get new ones. (They are so cheap!) The key is how you adjust the gun. Turn the material adjustment all the way out then start turning it in as you go to get a nice lay out without making it to dry or to wet. Just follow the directions for air pressure setting, fan adjustment and application speed.
You can make just about any gun do what you want it to.
Not a bad gun for the occasional user. Clean it well with a good solvent. DO NOT soak them in solvent but run solvent through them. This will prevent the "o" rings from deteriorating.
P.S. Omni is not bad stuff but is transparent material. You may want to put on an extra coat if you are going to buff it!
Hope this helps!

Thanks - I will definitely look at these guns. I don't anticapate using the gun more than a 1/2 dozen times in my lifetime so your reply is very helpful. I have the next few days off from work and will start shopping seriously tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[sailor]

I ended up and bought this new package for $150.00 including shipping on ebay from TCP. I feel it should do a good job for me.
I hope to be spraying soon, once the weather warms up. I should have the frame ready next week. Thanks again for your help.​

Part# DEV FLG-646
DeVILBISS HVLP FinishLine 3
PROMOTIONAL SPRAY GUN KIT


• FinishLine 3 HVLP Gravity Feed Spray Gun• with a 1.3mm Fluid Tip and 1 Liter Alum. Cup
• Additional 1.5mm and 1.8mm Fluid Tips• HAV-501 Air Regulator with Gauge• Gun Hook and a Gun Lube Sample
Limited Time Spray Gun Promotion
Don't miss out on this Exceptional Price Value!Used in Multiple Industries such as Automotive, Industrial and Wood Working!
The included 1.3, 1.5, and 1.8mm Fluid Tips will allow you to spray a wide spectrum of coatings! You'll be able to Acheive Professional Spraying Performance with Basecoats, Clearcoats, Single Stage, Sealers, 2K Primers and More! Can be used with a 3 HP compressor, and 23 psi inlet pressure yields 10 psi at the cap.

This spray gun offers many of the advantages of the more expensive DeVILBISS GTI Millennium Gun, enabling you to sacrifice on price, but not on the quality of spray.
Common FINISHLINE 3 HVLP SPRAY GUN Fluid Tip Set-Up Applications:• The 1.3mm Fluid Tip is Ideal for the Optimal Atomization of Basecoats, Clearcoats and
• other Light Viscosity Materials.
• The 1.5mm Fluid Tip works for Topcoats, Basecoats, Clearcoats, Sealers and other
• Light to Medium Viscosity Materials.
• The 1.8mm Fluid Tip is excellent for Primers, Oil Base, Latex, and other Meduim to
• Heavy Viscosity Coatings.

 

[dolo]

posting to subscribe. Let us know how it comes out. I'm shopping for a gun too but, like you, I'm on a budget. Gonna spray some motorcycle tins and practice on my dad's landcruiser before I do my truck.

 

[sailor]

posting to subscribe. Let us know how it comes out. I'm shopping for a gun too but, like you, I'm on a budget. Gonna spray some motorcycle tins and practice on my dad's landcruiser before I do my truck.

I got it painted. The new gun worked great. I am going to paint the tailgate tomorrow and finish bolting the bed on. I am also debating whether to put the inside bed panels back on. I like having it open. I am going to price out a new topper too - I hate to put the old one back on now that the truck is painted.
I am going to search for the rear bumper caps too.
Regards.

 

[psyco_nutball]

wow! very nice. did you did it outside in the air? or in a controlled garage? it's a VERY nice paint job

 

[sailor]

wow! very nice. did you did it outside in the air? or in a controlled garage? it's a VERY nice paint job

Thanks - I used plastic (12 x 50 foot piece) to hang from ceiling to floor to section off my garage and make a temporary paint booth. It worked out very well and kept the overspray from getting all over the inside of the garage. I left the door open and sprayed on a calm day but realized after starting the mist in the garage made it difficult to see the paint well. I was afraid to ventilate because of intake of dust - no bugs yet in Minnesota. If I do it again, I will install some form of positive ventilation to move air out/into the space, through perhaps some filters to keep out bugs and dust. I also used bright quartz lights but also realized more should have been used to see my paint better.

The job came out pretty good except I layed the paint down a bit too quick (no runs though) and did not wait long enought between coats even though I followed the paint instructions. Consequently, I got some solvent pop (very small bubbles) in some areas where I could not see because of the mist blocking my vision.

Neverless the less it looks pretty good for my first time using this type of gun and painting this large of a job. My wife was very impressed with the new bed because the old bed had deer fur hanging on the fenderwell rust from hitting a deer last fall is gone! My wife thought it looked horrible. I kind of miss my fur.

I also need to increase my size of compressor tank. I am going to add a receiver tank with better water separator when I touchup my 92 pickup bed this summer.

Here is a great site with a lot of help provided by the members:

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?p=101671&posted=1#post101671

Thanks to everyone on this site. Regards.

 

[SilverSoarer]

Good Info

 

[Vindac]

I apologize for bump the old topic, but I have some interesting observations that I would like to share, maybe this will help someone in the future because once I was on the lookout for useful advice.
HVLP for those who don't know stands for High Volume Low Pressure. This means your compressor needs to have a very high volume of air to run them correctly, hence highflow couplings as well. The benefit is fantastic transfer % of material, meaning less overspray and lower consumption of material but really only suited to 2K products.

Garvity feed HVLP is primarily suited to 2K products. For basecoat, clear coat and direct gloss you'll run around the 1.3-1.4mm fluid tip at around 2bar pressure. For primer and primer fillers you'll use around the 1.8mm fluid tip at 2bar also.Thought I'd do some comparisons for you guys:

The lowes gun has a 1.4 tip, the HF gun has a 1.4 and 1.8 tip.

Upon opening the HF gun the small paint cup had been cross threaded (I am assuming it came off of a shelf, so I got to call and see what they will do).

The HF gun just felt cheap beside the kobalt gun https://mechanicguides.com/best-automotive-paint-gun-for-beginners/ , it was lighter, flimsier and just doesn't feel as good in your hand.

The kobalt cup is much stronger than the flimsy cup with the HF gun.

I am not a professional and have maybe sprayed a total of two cars (mainly pieces here and there) I have sprayed a lot of steel structural stuff with the kobalt gun and it does good with paint and clear. I sprayed my 05 f150 fender with it, and you can't tell a difference in what I done and the factory paint (It was metallic silver two) after it was sanded and buffed.

I originally bought the kobalt gun for furniture as I build quite a bit of furniture for family and myself as a hobby. I have sprayed laquer, urethane, and enamel with it. All has turned out well.

The only downfall to the kobalt gun is the only tip you can get for it is a 1.4 tip. I plan to use the HF gun for primer with the 1.8 tip.

If I had to choose, It would be the Kobalt gun hands down for the price. I am really curious about the other Kobalt "automotive" gun.