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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone in the Rust Belt should Fluid Film our cars.
Just Google it.
Ive been using the stuff for ten years and it has prevented all rust on my underbody.
The rust I have has stopped because oxygen and the elements cant get to it.

Its used mainly in farming, in Canada and on mmilitary vehicles.

Get it up on a lift and spray EVERYTHING except the exhaust. (over spray on the exhaust smokes for 5-15 minutes)

Downside? It stinks for 2-3 days until it cures into a soft wax-like substance.
Get the areosol cans at Advance Auto for $12 a can. 2 cans usually covers our cars.

Spray the bottom interior of the doors too. And dont EVER drill any holes to spray the stuff!

Respray every 2 years. I like to do it every year because IM OCD. :rolleyes:

I had one shop charge me $120 to do it. I had another shop charge me $40 to do it. It takes about 20-30 minutes.

Another downside is their shop will smell like Fluid Film for hours if not a day or two. ANd if they do body work tiny droplets will ruin a paint job if their ventilation system isnt good.

Ive had 5 cars done and it works great. Plus its cheap. Plus its enviromentally friendly.

Lastly its non-flamible. Im not a chemist but it works.
 

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Another downside is it washes off of high roadspray areas, wheels wells etc and does not stick at all to body panels if needed. Does not stick on at the car wash when you gotta spray the salty slop off or use undercarriage wash, which was my first trial with FF in the spray can, it literally started flash rusting my frame in the middle of the summer after several passes!! And I sprayed that FF on thick like buttery!

For cavities and places that will not see direct washing I would give it an ok rating
I just do not like to go out in the cold when its well below freezing to respray stuff, so I found a WoolWax product that so far has not washed off at the car wash or anything. Not even on my tailgate or behind the mudflaps where there are paint chips that have yet to be fixed The only downside is it wants to collect a ton of dirt build up and takes effort to remove with degreaser and sponge if need to remove it

I have also tried a product from Canada, corrosion free rust cure 3K, it's clean clear and nearly drip free with no odor or harsh chemicals
But it too will wash off too easily in the wheel Wells and suspension


Liquid Automotive tire Tin Drinkware Aluminum can
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Another downside is it washes off of high roadspray areas, wheels wells etc and does not stick at all to body panels if needed. Does not stick on at the car wash when you gotta spray the salty slop off or use undercarriage wash, which was my first trial with FF in the spray can, it literally started flash rusting my frame in the middle of the summer after several passes!! And I sprayed that FF on thick like buttery!

For cavities and places that will not see direct washing I would give it an ok rating
I just do not like to go out in the cold when its well below freezing to respray stuff, so I found a WoolWax product that so far has not washed off at the car wash or anything. Not even on my tailgate or behind the mudflaps where there are paint chips that have yet to be fixed The only downside is it wants to collect a ton of dirt build up and takes effort to remove with degreaser and sponge if need to remove it

I have also tried a product from Canada, corrosion free rust cure 3K, it's clean clear and nearly drip free with no odor or harsh chemicals
But it too will wash off too easily in the wheel Wells and suspension


View attachment 351365

Here is a comparison by Project Farm on different rust preventatives:



Ive done 5 cars and I havent experienced any rusting at all. Yes you do have to reapply it every two years. And yes its only for the undercarriage and lower door lip for the most part.
But Ive had great results with it. It stopped the rust I had (all used cars) and got rid of the surface rust. I dont do undercarriage washes because I want that Fluid Film to stay on!
If you go to the forum Bobistheoilguy.com almost everyone said Fluid Film is better than Wool Wax. Not saying Woolwax is bad. Its not.
I am VERY interested in this Rust Cure you mentioned! Ill check it out!

Here is another Project Farm video on Rust Converters:

 

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i am curious why almost everyone say FF is better than WW?
its basically the same stuff except for the odor and the viscosity/thickness
one is from CA
the other from MA
I've got a test patch of WW HV on my truck frame in the wheel well that has been hit many times with the garden hose power shower and the sprayer at the wandwash garage over the past year, its still on there!
i saw that FF recently came out with a black product

here is a thread with pics, musings and ramblings
feel free to add to it

 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i am curious why almost everyone say FF is better than WW?
its basically the same stuff except for the odor and the viscosity/thickness
one is from CA
the other from MA
I've got a test patch of WW HV on my truck frame in the wheel well that has been hit many times with the garden hose power shower and the sprayer at the wandwash garage over the past year, its still on there!
i saw that FF recently came out with a black product

here is a thread with pics, musings and ramblings
feel free to add to it

The Fluid Film Black is thicker. Alas everything Ive watched and read still recommend Fluid Film. BOTH are much better than nothing. Bottom line is when you have them applied DONT get a undercarriage wash! They WILL deminish both. Also they both say get them resprayed every year. Lanolin is the key component. Regarding the color... I dont care what color they are since its under the car BUT since I spray my lower door lips I prefer clear.
Fluid Film comes in spray cans and they are about $11 per can. Its cheap. Anyone can use it but putting it up on a lift is FAR more affective.
Im going to keep recommending FF for that reason. Performance-wise they actually are very similar which surprised me.

FOR THE WIN: FLUID FILM

The way Im ageing I might use it as a facial cream :D





 

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another questions arises out of curiosity of the FF and how well it will adhere to high rotating parts
two parts from my trucks engine died premature from the salty roadspray that had been kicked up inside over the decades + summer humidity rotted them out to a non-functioning part(s)
the parts were the fan fluid coupler (fan clutch) and the crankshaft pulley which totally fell apart right in the fan blade which i also replaced new
the total cost to replace those with new ran me nearly $1000 which was mostly cost of parts!!
so i would like to protect them from the salty roadspray if at all possible, is that a crazy thing to do on a 25 year old truck
these parts are not the most easy to access, being covered by the fan shroud and belts and those splash shields under
i am just unsure about how well FF sticks to a rotating surface?, i have tried both FF and WW on the driveshafts underneath, neither really stuck well just whipped right off eventually to the surrounding areas


there is also a thing about FF not being used on non-oil resistant rubber? because of swelling
 
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