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Remove crankshaft without removing engine?

17860 Views 17 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  03 corolla hmm
I have a 2004 Corolla that started having rod knocking. I pulled the oil pan and removed the rod caps to expose the rod bearings. 1 set is slightly worn, 2 sets are worn with slight damage, and the 4th is heavily damaged to the point where the journal is damaged. So, I need to pull the crankshaft and either replace it or have it machined/polished so I can install new bearings.

My question is, I've gotten this far without having to pull the engine out. Can I move forward and get the crankshaft out without pulling out the engine?
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Yes. I ran into a similar situation where I recommended he replace the engine, however he wanted new bearings. I knew he'd be back, and sure enough the car sat in front of my work a month later. Turns out, one step away from removing the engine, the connecting rod wedged itself so the crankshaft had to be dropped ever so slightly.

In the 1ZZ-FE, the crankshaft, instead of the conventional design of main bearings, is held on by the entire bottom end of the engine. I was able to remove it by undoing all the bolts, some are a little difficult to get to, the hardest was the one on top of the longitudal crossmember. I'd recommend removing the engine and just overhauling it on a stand where everything is easier, but yes, it's possible to remove it without pulling the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, that crossmember support beam that runs straight up the middle under the engine made it a little tough to get to two (2) of the oil pan screws and to the last rod cap screws but they weren't impossible. I was worried more that I wouldn't be able to get my normal torque wrench back in there during the tightening phase.

Problem is that the car sits in my driveway and my son and I are working on getting it back in shape. I have no way of pulling the engine out unless I do it from the top-down piece by piece. Not sure if I have that much technical know-how. I'm scared of the pistons. :)

I'm in a bit of a pickle on my decision how to move forward. Son turns 16 in 6 months and I was wanting him to use the car so I didn't have to buy him something else. However, the car is 11.5 years old and has 274k miles. It isn't worth much on the books (KBB) but better than having to spend money buying a new vehicle... if I can fix this one for "relatively" cheap.
 

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Well, to remove the crankshaft, you need to remove all the main bolts that look like journal bolts and the bottom end of the engine is held on by those, and some 12MM bolts along the outside, I was actually talking about that one being the most difficult. If you can get and engine brace, you can remove that crossmember and be fine. Now I took off the timing cover because I had a feeling that I'd need to, but I'm not sure I had to in the end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well if it is indeed possible (although not the easiest route), I may more forward. Either way, I will need to do some research. Thanks for your input.
 

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2005 Corolla CE
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Stop messing with that engine and replace it.

The 1ZZFE engines are dime a dozen thanks to so many being built. It is easier to pull the engine than it is to remove and replace the crankshaft. Additionally, any number of new problems could be created when redoing the bottom end.

All you need to replace the engine is a hoist. Harbor Freight has them for a little more than $180. Here is the exact hoist I have:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-69512-9073.html

On the Corolla, it is actually really easy and only requires some wiring removal, hood removal, radiator removal, front mount removal, the torque converter bolts (if automatic), and then the bell housing bolts. From there you can replace it or properly rebuild it.

Read this thread for engine compatibility:

http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/1...p-tips-thread-everything-you-wanted-know.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I know it has been several months since I posted and I appreciate everyone's input. I did pull the piston rod bearings out just to see what they looked like. Yikes!

The 1st journal (closest to the transmission) may need slight polishing due to some residue / debris but I haven't looked to see if it can be carefully scraped or picked off with my fingernail. Looks like the bearings slipped over each over and started to spin. :(

1st Bearing:



2nd Bearing:


3rd Bearing:


4th bearing was clean and in near perfect condition (appearance). I still would need to mic the journal to make sure I can install with an OEM replacement.
 

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In the 1ZZ-FE, the crankshaft, instead of the conventional design of main bearings, is held on by the entire bottom end of the engine. I was able to remove it by undoing all the bolts, some are a little difficult to get to, the hardest was the one on top of the longitudal crossmember. I'd recommend removing the engine and just overhauling it on a stand where everything is easier, but yes, it's possible to remove it without pulling the engine.

how do you access the bolts holding the crank to the flywheel? are the heads of them not on the transmission side? it seems like if you have to pull the transmission off, its pretty much undoable while in the vehicle? am i mistaken? i have some spun bearing/s and would love to just replace the cranks from the bottom but it seems unfeasible? you undo the caps and have to break the pully-side bolt, and slide it out of the timing chaing sprocket? there is enough play to do that?

thank you anyone for any help, this car is in a good location except for no hoist access
 

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Been there man. I would not recommend just replacing the crankshaft while the engine is still in the car. Metal particles will be at every nook and cranny of the engine and you'll be better off doing a tear down and rebuilding it. You could always swap in a used engine, but you just never know what that engine has been through and you risk running into the same prob.
 

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Been there man. I would not recommend just replacing the crankshaft while the engine is still in the car. Metal particles will be at every nook and cranny of the engine and you'll be better off doing a tear down and rebuilding it. You could always swap in a used engine, but you just never know what that engine has been through and you risk running into the same prob.
this is kind of what i am thinking but this corolla charlie character said it could be done without pulling the motor or even the sidecover somehow? he logged on the day after i asked and didnt respond...

to me it looks like to pull the crank you need to pop off the transmission gain access to the head of the bolts holding the "left/transmission" side of the cranks from the flywheel????

and there really should be enough play to slide it out without pulling the timing chain sprocket and belt wheel?? it looks like it could be done with the block in the vehicle but youd have to pull everything off the motor as if youre doing a swap anyways...?

I would love to pop a new crank and bearings in for like 300??? and get it going again but am thinking i should prob buy a 900? jdm60k motor. is there a great place in particular to find 1zz-fes?
 

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I have invented a special tool to repair connecting rod journals w/o removing crank. I fixed about 20 engines so far.
Removing crank w/o removing engine is possible, but you have to remove transmission first. It makes sense to remove engine and replace crank w/o removing cylinders heads, if connecting rods are OK.
that sounds great are you going to share it with the rest of the class or are we just supposed to know what a genius you are?
 

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OKAY this is an old thread but the definitive answer is essentially NO

to remove the crankshaft you have to pull the transmission to access the 14mm bolts holding the crank to the flywheel, and if you remove the trans you have to remove 3/4 of the mounts for the motor/tranny assembly. so the replace the crank in the car you have to pull most of the engine bay, and contrary to what a mod corolla charlie said is not possible to do without removing the sidecover. idk wtf that guy was talking about. so with most of the engine bay removed you would have ot perch the motor on 1 mount and..? jacks? somewhere.. while you yank on the crank cap assembly and caps + anything else. sounds like a good way to end up a statistic with a smashed body part when the motor swings down. you could hold it with a crane but if you do that why not just pull the motor.. sigh. i thought you might be able to do it cheap and easy
 
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