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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello.
My 96' Corolla 1.6L 1.8L (AE102L) began loosing coolant on a regular basis. Also its been a while feeling the transmission kind of wonky, as if the forward clutch is not grabbing well.
Found out the coolant issue, one of the freeze plugs below the admission was leaking, the 25mm one, had to remove pretty much everything to reach it and removed all the 35mm freeze plugs and they were in bad shape as well.
I am going to pull the transmission out and already unscrew everything that is in the way (cables, hoses, pipes, radiator, both axles). The engine is still attached to the transmission and the engine mounts. If I understand correctly the engine has only one mounting block on the left hand side (if looking at the car from the front) and the other "engine mounts" are supporting the transmission.
From under the car I can see a structural cross member that is blocking the view somewhat (its right where the engine block ends and tranny starts), there are some screws that hold the transmission to the block that might be accessible, maybe loosening this crossmember is needed.
If I am not mistaken the transaxle can be lowered to the ground if properly unfastened from the engine block. The engine block might need some support too because it will be hanging off one engine mount if I unfasten it from the transaxle.
Have been searching the web for the transaxle removal process but havent found one exactly for this gen of corolla.

My questions are:
What rebuild kit do you recomend for this transaxle? (door lable says -03A/A245E)
Could you point me to a video of this transaxle removal process?
Maybe some one on the forum has pics or more information about this process?

Thank you very much.
 

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1997 Corolla
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Not sure if we got that transmission in the US. That's where most of us are from, although there are a few are in other countries.
As with anything on these cars, if you can source replacement parts from Toyota or whoever they sourced them from, like Aisin, that is always the best way. A few here have had their transmissions out, or at least the mounts.

You've been a member here for eleven and a half years, and this is your first post?
 

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1997 Corolla
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Of course we have the A245E transmission (4-speed auto) in the USA, but it's usually paired with the 1.8L 7A-FE while the 1.6L 4A-FE is paired with the 3-speed auto A131L.

The left and right mounts support all the weight of the engine and transmission. The front and rear mounts are more to stabilize the rotation of the engine and transmission. If you remove just the transmission you should support the engine rather than lower the weight onto the front and rear mounts--they are not designed to hold the weight.

The good source of information is a factory repair manual, but I'm not sure if you can find a used one in your country. Removing just the transmission should be similar on 6th and 8th gen Corollas, so if you find any info or videos of those it should also help you.
 

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Don’t forget us 9th gen 1zz mated to a A245E auto! Up until 2008!


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1994 Corolla DX
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Don’t forget us 9th gen 1zz mated to a A245E auto! Up until 2008!
Yeah I mean just to rub it in for Pete (who obviously knows this already and I guess just had a brain fart!) the A245E is arguably one of the most successful automatic transmissions Toyota/Aisin ever used in the US.... By 2008 it was long overdue for a more modern replacement - I guess they kept it around for that long because it just worked!

OP - look for youtube videos for replacement of rear main seals for Corolla 93-97 as that's a common reason for dropping the transmission and I think there should be a couple out there.
 

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Haha, these are Toyotas! I don't need to know what the transmission designation is, because chances are high that I'll never have to touch the transmission, other than checking and adding fluid.
 
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Yeah I mean just to rub it in for Pete (who obviously knows this already and I guess just had a brain fart!) the A245E is arguably one of the most successful automatic transmissions Toyota/Aisin ever used in the US.... By 2008 it was long overdue for a more modern replacement - I guess they kept it around for that long because it just worked!

OP - look for youtube videos for replacement of rear main seals for Corolla 93-97 as that's a common reason for dropping the transmission and I think there should be a couple out there.
Yeah, fantastic transmission. No real issues aside from me snapping an original Toyota CV axle driver side and passenger side axle retaining clip broke off.. trans still good throwing up axles for breakfast.

I think if it was a 4speed+overdrive5th speed (ex. A255E series hypothetical) I’d be more happier for hwy mpg. Also, if it supported a passenger intermediate shaft instead of a extra long axle like the U340 series trans.


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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This vehicle was imported from USA, Tx I believe. I have no idea if it had any transaxle transplant before I got it.
I think I have 3 speeds +OD, does it make it 4 speed?
I want to be absolutely sure about my transmission model before I order a kit.
Picture from the front of the car:
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From the driver side wheel opening:
Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Tread Bumper

From the battery side:
Black Artifact Auto part Sculpture Gas

View of the engine:
Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas Auto part Automotive air manifold

Is this the A254E transmission in the pics above?
The odometer reads 207435 miles on it.
If I could avoid rebuilding the transmission I would try it, but it just does not feel right.
From standstill it hesitates quite a bit and after it gets rolling it feels better.
Maybe sevicing the valve body alove with solenoid replacement is worth a try?

Thanks again for the help. Really apretiate it.
 

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1994 Corolla DX
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If you take the beginning of the VIN you're showing a photo of there 1NXBB02E and check it online you'll find that your engine is not a 1.6L 4A-FE (as you mentioned on top of the thread) but a 7A-FE 1.8L. That makes sense, as you're indicating you imported it from the US where it would be mated to an A245E. That, plus you having OD (only 4-speed A245Es came with that)... you should have an A245E on your hand.
 

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1997 Corolla
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Do you have an overdrive on/off button on the shifter and the light in the instrument cluster to indicate O/D off? That was only on the 4-speed A245E. The 3-speed did not have that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
For some reason I always thought about this corolla as 1.6l, it is 1.8l indeed. Have O/D switch with light indicator on the cluster.
I guess I will follow this guide Transmission overhaul first. If that does not fix the issues, well, going to have to do somehting.
In the mean time I will replace the cv joint boots on the axles and check that oil leak on the 1st spark plug, the rubber of the spark cable have swelled.
Maybe checking the state of the camshaft belt also.
 

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Also its been a while feeling the transmission kind of wonky, as if the forward clutch is not grabbing well.
I have no idea what a forward clutch not grabbing would feel like. Could you describe it?

The guy I bought my car from said the transmission was slipping. It turned out to just be a bad spark plug wire causing a misfire when it shifted into 3rd around 40 mph.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I have no idea what a forward clutch not grabbing would feel like. Could you describe it?
From the standstill if going forward I feel an intermittent grabbing of a clutch, acompanied by a soft vibration, maybe due to grabbing and letting go of something in the transmission, kindof "durr-durr-durr-durr". Timing of the grabbing migh be 3-5 times a second.
Can be described as hesitation perhaps? Once the transmission shifts to the next gear the symptoms disappear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Removed the engine cover, discovered the culprit of the spark plug cable housing swelling. The oil seals are pretty hard, the #1 slided about an inch downwards. The little tab that held it in place was "ajar". I have put the seal back in its place for the picture. The spark plug cable on the left is normal size.
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Timing belt presents some cracking:
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Is the belt due for replacement?
 

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Holy cow. That belt needs a replacement so bad. It’s cracking up. Be sure to mark the old timing belt and sprockets before taking it off. Then transfer to new belt. Always check your work by hand turning before lighting her back up.


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