[Jacob 03]

After a long drive, I discovered my Avalon was overheating. Turns out the fans wouldn't turn on. Later on all of my electrical components started dying one by one until the car stalled. Alternator and battery were dead so I got those replaced. However, the cooling fan still wouldn't run unless jumpered using a paperclip. After driving it again, my electrical components started to die once again. I haven't gotten the alternator checked yet, but odds are it's bad. My main concern is getting the car running and I will worry about the cooling fan later. So any suggestions about my alternator?

 

[BMR]

What brand is the alternator, and where’d you buy it? The aftermarket is full of junk alternators that are often bad right out of the box.

 

[Jacob 03]

What brand is the alternator, and where’d you buy it? The aftermarket is full of junk alternators that are often bad right out of the box.

I don't recall the brand. I bought it from my local Autozone

 

[BMR]

I’ll guess it’s Autozone’s brand, Duralast. I don’t think it’s possible to sell crappier parts. But it probably has a lifetime warranty. You’ll get tired of swapping them out.

 

[surgeon0]

Although it is (maybe from what you say) alternator, make sure it is also not bad ground/cable, etc that is the root cause. Alternator going bad slowly has happened to our old Accord. But then things run off the battery until it dies. Slow systemic failures and overheating was not one of them. There has to be another cause too. Maybe alternator itself is running below optimum too. If you have a cheap multimeter (basic is fine), you can check resistances and continuity.

Even after swapping (both alt and/or batt or batt at full charge), monitor the alt, charge, wires.

 

[surgeon0]

Also it might be time to cut losses and go with a Reman denso from RockAuto or a new TYC (it appears a few suggested in other threads). I would only recommend and stick with a Denso. Do not want to knock other ones if they truly worked fine for others. Just saying.

 

[Jacob 03]

I got my alternator tested again and they said it's fine. Same with the battery. I replaced the fuse as well. I'm still not getting a charge from the alternator. I was reading 12.3 volts coming from the alternator with my multimeter while the car was running and the headlights off. With lights on it dropped to 12.1. What's next?

 

[surgeon0]

First check the wiring. Easy stuff first. Corroded or bad ground wire. Check the resistance along the wire to terminal. Either its just wiring or there is a parasitic draw also. I forgot each of the alternator tests. Maybe a good search result above or a good YT video. I know there are some really experienced folks here.

Been through several issues before but each is different. However one of those tests (list of steps) is good before leading back to alternator internals are bad (diodes, regulator) which happens normally with these autoparts alternators with LLT warranty. Also one of those cig liter usb chargers with voltage display is good to have to monitor while driving so you can see fluctuations. Its like $12-20 on amazon.

So then check voltage every night to see drop difference as a start. At least you will know how much you are loosing and how fast. As long as you use vehicle daily it will get enough charge to start the car. If unused for 2 days, then probably less charge. It can get annoying. I got a clampmeter in my toolbox recently, and it has helped a lot. My cousin had a slow parasitic drain and I was able to check amps quickly without disconnecting batt.

 

[Jacob 03]

I checked the wiring and it all appears to be ok as well as the grounds. I will check for parasitic draw when there's light again. Speaking of light, I have also heard about a battery light that I'm supposed to see if the connection is good, but I have not seen such a light. Does this mean anything?

 

[surgeon0]

There is one of those in harborfreight. It has 3 lights for low, good, over on voltage. Does nothing else. But you can get that same reading with multimeter (free or cheapo).

 

[Jacob 03]

Just letting you guys know, it ended up being the ECU fuse was blown. Probably from my old alternator. But my battery is charging and fans are blowing. I appreciate the input from everyone.

 

[surgeon0]

Glad it worked out. Your update will definitely help all of us later on when we have alt or electrical issues. These happen out of nowhere and cause headaches because the cause can be any one of 100 things.