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HI - first time caller here. I'm thinking of buying a 2006 Highlander Hybrid from a family member. Car is in great shape, checks all the boxes on my list, except the center console is not very useful when it comes to driving in 2017. the navigation screen is hard to use, there is no bluetooth, and i don't have much use for a cassette or CD player. i'd love to upgrade, ideally to something that runs android auto (so i can use google maps to navigate and listen to google music).

i have no idea where to start for this, but am assuming i can't just pull out the nav and stereo and pop in an aftermarket - the touchscreen controls the A/C and other things about the car.

Any thoughts/ideas? aftermarket solutions? take to toyota dealer?

thanks-
david
 

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You simply add Knivo BT adapter connected to Aux. Then you stream music and, if you wish so, listen to guidance voice. Also, it's your hands free phone right there.
As far as you have large smart phone, simply set it on dash somewhere as GPS screen. My Note 4 is actually about same size as display you can squeeze in, so why bother and lose many features?
Not asked for, but Waze is much better app than G maps. Just saying.
If you just die to have fancy stuff ( I had 2 Knivos, they work so well), look at GROM BT adapters as they also come with USB ports and i-phone connectors. GROM also makes steering wheel adapters. Grand total will be around $300 for all plus install time.
That's me. Folks really prefer to shnazzy head unit that costs arm and leg and drops many features of the OEM one, so sure, your car, your call.
 

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I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.





It wasn't entirely easy. Apparently the energy monitor was designed to need the cassette player to function correctly. I don't know what the logic was there. But with some experimentation I figured out that the sole purpose of the 12 pin connector (with only two pins used) is to signal the multipurpose display that the cassette/stereo unit is installed. All the cassette/stereo unit does is apply a 70ohm resistance. I didn't happen to have a 70ohm resistor laying around, so I tried a random one from my scraps bin ...



There is also the matter of the steering wheel controls.



From left to right, that is SW2, SW1, SWG. There's no need to buy a fancy black box. You just need to connect those three lines to your new head unit as labeled. (I just happened to have a Toyota 20 pin connector that works for this in my junk bin.)

For the rest of the connections, the Metra 70-8113 adapter harness did the trick.

I'm planning to add a rear-view camera next ...
 

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I bought my 2006 in April. I for sure wanted the cassette player out from day one. In addition to that, the Navigation was belly up and I wasn't seeing anything that suggested that it could be repaired. Some updated tech was a must for me.

I was able to install an Android without sacrificing the main multi-purpose display at all.



Hey! I've Just bought a 2006 Highlander and am in the same boat. What I can't find is the wood grain inserts you have on either side of your new radio. Where did you get those? I can't use the woodgrain paneling I have currently cuz it's irregularly shaped with the volume knobs and all sticking out. Every kit I find is just flat black plastic and it's driving me insane!
 

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I made those from the original radio bezel. I carefully shaved them down on my belt sander. Then I mounted them on the sides of the radio with some small "L" brackets and 3M tape, and a little black hot-glue to fill the gap. It's not high tech, but it looks pretty good.
 

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I made those from the original radio bezel. I carefully shaved them down on my belt sander. Then I mounted them on the sides of the radio with some small "L" brackets and 3M tape, and a little black hot-glue to fill the gap. It's not high tech, but it looks pretty good.
This is awesome. Definitely something I’ll keep note of. I would like to swap the two screens and put the new one on top for CarPlay navigation and ease of viewing.
 

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I made those from the original radio bezel. I carefully shaved them down on my belt sander. Then I mounted them on the sides of the radio with some small "L" brackets and 3M tape, and a little black hot-glue to fill the gap. It's not high tech, but it looks pretty good.
Hey, did you have any trouble with the amplifier? I got the same harness as you, same resistor hack, but i cannot get audio out. Tested the head unit on some other speakers and it worked fine. A local car audio place told me they usually bypass the amplifier which requires removing seats. Did you have any trouble with that on your install? Thanks in advance.

Edit: I should note that my head unit a BOSS model doesn't have anything to attach for the amplifier ground or "amplifier switch on" connections. Is there a way to wire those in relably? I can ground it easy enough but I'm unsure what to do with the switch on wire. Is it a pulse or a constant charge? I've never dealt with an amplifier that wasn't integrated with the head unit before.
 

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Hey, did you have any trouble with the amplifier? I got the same harness as you, same resistor hack, but i cannot get audio out. Tested the head unit on some other speakers and it worked fine. A local car audio place told me they usually bypass the amplifier which requires removing seats. Did you have any trouble with that on your install? Thanks in advance.
The issue with changing your head unit on a JBL system is that the speaker-out lines are going to the input of the JBL amp, as opposed to speakers. So, for the Android head unit I installed above, the JBL amp had no problem.

However, I DID have a problem last weekend when I decided to replace my Android head unit with an Alpine head unit and a 45W amp. At that point I fried my JBL amp and got zero audio out. (Probably just blew the fuse.) So, to deal with this, I ran my own speaker wires from the doors to the Alpine amp behind the head unit. The JBL amp is now sitting dormant. Maybe I'll rip it out and toss it to save weight at some future date.

To expand a little, in running my own speaker wires to the doors, I cheated a little. Instead of dealing with the headache of running new speaker wires through the flexible door wiring boot, I just cut and tapped into the OEM speaker wires where they enter the cabin.


295655


295656
 

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However, I DID have a problem last weekend when I decided to replace my Android head unit with an Alpine head unit and a 45W amp. At that point I fried my JBL amp and got zero audio out. (Probably just blew the fuse.) So, to deal with this, I ran my own speaker wires from the doors to the Alpine amp behind the head unit. The JBL amp is now sitting dormant. Maybe I'll rip it out and toss it to save weight at some future date.

To expand a little, in running my own speaker wires to the doors, I cheated a little. Instead of dealing with the headache of running new speaker wires through the flexible door wiring boot, I just cut and tapped into the OEM speaker wires where they enter the cabin.
Thanks for the speedy reply! Thanks!

That's what I was afraid of. I don't really want to pull the back seat and bypass the amp, I also don't really want to pull doors to run wire. I like your middle ground idea. Probably just going to have to go that route. I've already sunk way too much time into this haha. Note to self: avoid JBL systems that you want to upgrade later.

I miss working on my old cars, they were so much simpler.
 
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