OMG, First off, why are you replacing everything. 2nd, Not cheap in anyway. If it's because the compressor came apart and contaminated the system i would replace the compressor ( Toyota now offers a complete reman for a good price) and the receiver/dryer and back flush the rest of the system once you remove the lines and sepperate each part of the system then recharge and retro fit with R134 service ports and it should work just fine.I normaly retro fit these when i do any a/c on these older R12 systems with zero problems.
Years ago Toyota had a service bulliten that stated that the entire system needed to be replaced to convert to R134 and was complete nonsence. Will the old system (rubber lines and seals)leak out some R134 over time? Yes 3-5 years has been my expeareance.
I just replaced most of mine. My compressor was good, but the car was wrecked so I had to replace the condenser, dryer, two of the lines coming off the condenser, and get it refilled with r134. I got the parts from a junkyard, cost me 50 for the condenser, and 50 for everything else I needed. I bought some new o-rings for the lines at oreilly's for 58 cents, and got it recharged at my mechanic's shop for like 68 dollars. So I pegged in at just under 200 for everything minus the compressor. The compressor is the expensive part though, I'd look for a junkyard car with one that's been replaced.
Im with CWH5; why are you replacing everything? Once I have the answer to that question, I can move on.
FYI, I do give TN members 30% off MSRP for Genuine Toyota OEM parts. I only charge actual shipping costs plus $2.00 for materials, etc. It isn't dollar or percentage based, it is actual shipping costs.
But whether you buy from me or not, don't hestiate to contact me for anything, even if it isn't parts related. I am in ther forum just about everyday and am here to help the members with information and a sourc for affordable genuine OEM parts.
Let me know why you are wanting to replace everything, it may not be as bad as you think.
ok, here's the thing my ac compressor stopped working, so i took it to a auto shop that fixed one of my friend's car that had the compressor go bad...and he changed it to a used compressor but it still didn't fix the problem so i took it to toyota dealership and the mechanic told me the compressor that guy put on is ok but the guy didn't flush out the system and there was all kind of metal shards in the entire system...so he was telling me you need to get it replaced if you want the ac to start working again...right now it blows hot air out...so thats why i wanted to know
Just as i thought, Remove the lines from the compressor, Follow the large line to the firewall, there will be a small line next to it coming out, follow this back the condensor and disconect at the junction before it, This is the first part of the system seperated to be back flushed. You will install the flush at the large line removed from the compressor then blow this out with compressed air, Do this atleast twice.
Next remove the Receiver/Dryer, Most of the metal will be in here and the small line going to the comp.. You will now flush the condensor starting from the line you removed at the junction going towards the Dryer.
Last will be the line going from the Dryer to the comp., start at the Dryer side.
Next you should relace all the O ring seals and aply some compsesor oil on them and gently intall the lines, The Rec/Dryer should be unsealed and install last.
Well since you have already bought a used compressor i would use that and buy a NEW Receiver/Dryer, This is the only A/C part that should never be bought used as it is ment to capture any moisture that has gotten into the system from open ports or lines and stop this moisture from freezing inside the expansion valve and evaperator, A used one may be already saturated and if not will be once its open to the atmosphere for a while. Not worth the risk if you ask me. This should also be the very last part installed and the evacuation should be started sone after as it will start soaking up moisture from the air in the system.
Evacuation pulls the system into about a 20-30 in vacume causing water to boil and vaporize and be pulled out. and should be done for a min of 15-30 min and leak checked at the end then add pag oil (prob around 4 oz) and charge system. you may need to pay a shop to do the last part of this as it will require a gage set and A/C vacume pump, should be about 1 1/2 hr labor for the evac and recharge.
Good luck and sorry for yet another long post.