[jacobc]

Hi All,

Two questions today. I'm in the process of diagnosing a lack of dashboard and shift indicator lights.

(1) The tail lights work as do the hazards - so I do not think the 15A TAIL fuse is the culprit. It's not broken.

The problem most likely comes down to the rheostat or the way U-Haul installed the 4 way trailer connector. The rear light indicator is illuminated on the dash yet the tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hazards all work, so I'm inclined to think this is the problem. I'm tempted to replace the 15A TAIL fuse with a 20A fuse, but I don't know the consequences of this. My wife drives this car with 2 kids all day, and I don't want an electrical fire. Would this be a worthwhile idea to try? What would be the consequences of it?

EDIT (for clarity): I should say that since the tail lights and dash lights seem on the same fuse/circuit maybe the extra hardware U-Haul installed has caused the dash lights not to get power? Would that even make sense? Hence, the need for a larger fuse.

Likewise, if that's a terrible idea/not the problem, I'll look into testing the rheostat. My question is this: In the factory service manual, it says connect a battery to terminal 1 and 2 (reference pictured attached). Is this any old 12 volt battery? Would 9V battery work? Any help understanding this would be much appreciated.

LINK: http://imgur.com/a/VdX34

Thanks for any and all help,

 

[KaMLuNg]

i don't think the fuse is the issue... are you absolutely certain that all the tail lights are working? there are some dual filament bulbs which act as both tail/brake lights. turn on your tails then have someone hold the brake and make sure everything illuminates... also check the 3rd (high mount) brake light...

 

[bwechols]

I recommend turning on your lights (so the dash lights would be on if they were working) and probing both sides of all fuses with a test light. This will only take a minute and if you have a fuse that's hot on one side and not on the other, you'll know it's blown. Beyond that, I'm sorry I'm not much help on the dash light issue.

I don't know what good replacing the 15A fuse with a 20A fuse would do, if the 15A is not blown. Maybe I misunderstood what you meant?

To identify what is causing your tail light out indicator to come on, start with all lights off and don't touch the brakes. Then work through turning each light on one at a time (touch brakes, turn on each blinker, turn on marker lights, etc) until the indicator lights up. Then, you will know exactly what bulb is causing the issue and you can check them. When I had this issue, I didn't even realize that there were little corner marker lights on the rear that had blown bulbs on both sides. My marker lights appeared symmetrical, so I didn't think they were the issue at first until I investigated deeper.

 

[Kingdom934]

I can't assist regarding troubleshooting the 4 way trailer light issue, but do not for any purposes use a higher rated fuse for any circuit is rated. you are essentially by-passing the safe guard of the system. The fuse is meant to blow out if there is a higher draw/short than the rated fuse for that circuit. The fuse is the weakest link in the circut. By using a higher rated fuse, you risk potentially can cause damage to equipment and/or melting the wires if there is a known fault in that circuit.

To check why your gauge is not working, please check several of these fuses. It could be a possible chance one or more is blown. The GAUGE fuse runs the cluster and meters, along with service reminder indicators. 'TAIL' fuse runs the tail light, parking lights, license plate lights, and instrument panel lights. CIG, Radio and Dome run other interior lights as well.

Also, what year Camry is this?

 

[mcgowaw]

OP, did this start when U-haul did some wiring on your car?
if so, why not make them fix it?

and, as others have said, NEVER replace a fuse with a higher rated one or a jumper or any other such nonsense, unless you want a car fire that is.

tony

 

[jacobc]

Yep,

I think I now realize this is a really stupid question. My apologies, but I can't delete the post.

I spoke with an electrical engineer at work, and he agreed that the fuse would just blow or not blow if the U-Haul wire-splicing box was an issue. He said if anything everything would just be dimmer as everything just gets a little bit less current (I think - that's me remembering/comprehending what was said). Common sense was not running on all cylinders when I suggested putting in a higher amp fuse.

I guess I just tied the indicator light, the TAIL fuse, and the instrument light into one big problem. It may not be that way at all. The hitch install was awhile ago, and I'm just getting around to dealing with the instrument lights. Plus, there's nothing I could do to prove they caused it.

Going to start with looking at all fuses. Then the rheostat/dimmer switch. It's one of the few things that would cause both shift indicator lights out and instrument lights. It seems like an easy first place to start.

Thanks for the help guys,

 

[KaMLuNg]

it's also quite possible the bulbs in the dash & shift indicator blew...

 

[71Corolla]

I'm tempted to replace the 15A TAIL fuse with a 20A fuse, but I don't know the consequences of this.

 

[jacobc]

Thanks for the visual. That's an oddly specific picture. Is this sent from personal experience?

 

[Kingdom934]

Yep,

I think I now realize this is a really stupid question. My apologies, but I can't delete the post.

I spoke with an electrical engineer at work, and he agreed that the fuse would just blow or not blow if the U-Haul wire-splicing box was an issue. He said if anything everything would just be dimmer as everything just gets a little bit less current (I think - that's me remembering/comprehending what was said). Common sense was not running on all cylinders when I suggested putting in a higher amp fuse.

I guess I just tied the indicator light, the TAIL fuse, and the instrument light into one big problem. It may not be that way at all. The hitch install was awhile ago, and I'm just getting around to dealing with the instrument lights. Plus, there's nothing I could do to prove they caused it.

Going to start with looking at all fuses. Then the rheostat/dimmer switch. It's one of the few things that would cause both shift indicator lights out and instrument lights. It seems like an easy first place to start.

Thanks for the help guys,

No worry, we all had a Duhhh moment here

If the fuses all check out okay, there has been times when people blew out the rheostat that cause that same issue. They don't usually blow unless they short out.

 

[mcgowaw]

"we all had a Duhhh moment here "
speak for yourself king. my senility laced ramblings are always spot on! ;-)
tony

 

[Men in Black]

And extra 5 amps gives you an extra 50 watts (at least) of heat causing, wiring smoking potential. I vote no. Not even a 15 mp slow blow. You wouldn't want to put your hand on a 50 filament light bulb.

 

[justtaint]

Really dumb question, but have you checked the interior dimmer switch? Maybe someone messed with that?

 

[Donald E George]

+10 on that 71. Fuses are placed in the circuits to protect the wiring. If you developed a short to ground using a 20amp instead of the 15amp, you risk damaging the wiring and possibly setting the vehicle on fire. Find the problem. Using the wrong fuse is not a solution to anything. Regards:frown:

 

[cb91710]

I'm tempted to replace the 15A TAIL fuse with a 20A fuse

That is a very good way to burn your harness.
The fuse is there to protect the wiring.
If it is blowing, there is a problem.

The problem was caused by U-Haul, take it back to them and make them fix it, or take it to your dealer and try to collect from U-Haul (won't be cheap)

 

[Mushroom]

 

[original_nutcase]

Hi All,

Two questions today. I'm in the process of diagnosing a lack of dashboard and shift indicator lights.

(1) The tail lights work as do the hazards - so I do not think the 15A TAIL fuse is the culprit. It's not broken.

The problem most likely comes down to the rheostat or the way U-Haul installed the 4 way trailer connector. The rear light indicator is illuminated on the dash yet the tail lights, brake lights, turn signals, and hazards all work, so I'm inclined to think this is the problem. I'm tempted to replace the 15A TAIL fuse with a 20A fuse, but I don't know the consequences of this. My wife drives this car with 2 kids all day, and I don't want an electrical fire. Would this be a worthwhile idea to try? What would be the consequences of it?

EDIT (for clarity): I should say that since the tail lights and dash lights seem on the same fuse/circuit maybe the extra hardware U-Haul installed has caused the dash lights not to get power? Would that even make sense? Hence, the need for a larger fuse.

Likewise, if that's a terrible idea/not the problem, I'll look into testing the rheostat. My question is this: In the factory service manual, it says connect a battery to terminal 1 and 2 (reference pictured attached). Is this any old 12 volt battery? Would 9V battery work? Any help understanding this would be much appreciated.

LINK: http://imgur.com/a/VdX34

Thanks for any and all help,

Please DO NOT USE THE HIGHER AMP FUSE!!!!!! Can and will cause A FIRE!

 

[cb91710]

This guy used a 20a fuse....