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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last weekend I replaced the brake fluid in my 2013 Avalon HV Limited. The procedure is somewhat different than any other car or truck I have done prior.

I'll give a brief description assuming you have done brake fluid changes before. For a more complete step by step go to Toyota TIS. Here you can purchase for $20 a 2 days access for legit Toyota FSM pages. You can't download a complete manual for which I understand.


To change brake fluid.
1 Remove all 4 wheels.
2 Place braking system in in-valid mode by the following procedure:

Turn on car (Not Acc) with parking brake engaged.
Move shift lever to N and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to P and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to N again and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to P.
You can verify invalid mode when the yellow brake warning light flashes quickly. Be careful not to let the hubs turn during the fluid change. It's one of many things that will kick the system out of invalid mode.

3 Use something to suck as much fluid out of the tank.
4 Start at the right front wheel and pump the fluid out doing the standard procedure. (Press brake pedal, open brake bleed plug till pedal hits floor board, tighten plug, release brake pedal, repeat till clean fluid is discharged)
5 On left front wheel repeat step 4
6 Next bleed left rear wheel. Here is were things differ. Press the brake pedal and loosen brake plug. Brake fluid will start pumping out quickly. (I found the 5 seconds was plenty of time). Tighten plug and release brake pedal.
7 Bleed right rear wheel using step 6.
8 All done. Just be sure to check the fluid level in the tank often. If you start sucking air from an empty tank this will take awhile to clear the air out.

Good luck.

(edit note. Original post had steps 4 & 5 side of car reversed)
 

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Exactly...I would like to attach the PDF page from TIS for this procedure but I figure it is against forum rules.
I just screenshot the section and post it.
 

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Last weekend I replaced the brake fluid in my 2013 Avalon HV Limited. The procedure is somewhat different than any other car or truck I have done prior.

I'll give a brief description assuming you have done brake fluid changes before. For a more complete step by step go to Toyota TIS. Here you can purchase for $20 a 2 days access for legit Toyota FSM pages. You can't download a complete manual for which I understand.


To change brake fluid.
1 Remove all 4 wheels.
2 Place braking system in in-valid mode by the following procedure:

Turn on car (Not Acc) with parking brake engaged.
Move shift lever to N and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to P and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to N again and the press brake pedal 8 times in 5 seconds.
Move shift lever to P.
You can verify invalid mode when the yellow brake warning light flashes quickly. Be careful not to let the hubs turn during the fluid change. It's one of many things that will kick the system out of invalid mode.

3 Use something to suck as much fluid out of the tank.
4 Start at the left front wheel and pump the fluid out doing the standard procedure. (Press brake pedal, open brake bleed plug till pedal hits floor board, tighten plug, release brake pedal, repeat till clean fluid is discharged)
5 On right front wheel repeat step 4
6 Next bleed left rear wheel. Here is were things differ. Press the brake pedal and loosen brake plug. Brake fluid will start pumping out quickly. (I found the 5 seconds was plenty of time). Tighten plug and release brake pedal.
7 Bleed right rear wheel using step 6.
8 All done. Just be sure to check the fluid level in the tank often. If you start sucking air from an empty tank this will take awhile to clear the air out.

Good luck.
Would the procedure change if one used a power bleeder connected to the master cylinder reservoir instead of the pump and hold method described above, specifically steps 6 and 7?

Do steps 6 & 7 activate the HV brake booster and/or antilock brake control?

How does the above procedure compare with a dealer complete brake system flush using a Toyota scan tool? Is the antilock brake control being flushed by this procedure?

This is very interesting. I power flush the brakes on my conventional braking system cars, but have been taking my HVs to the Toyota dealer.

Thanks.
 

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Never heard of bleeding done starting from shortest line and it does not matter hybrid or not, hydraulics are exactly same.
I've not heard of it either but I have not looked at TIS for it.
 

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On my prior 2015 Nissan Murano, the service manual called for the brake flush to begin with one of the front wheels, not the old method of starting with the longest line RR, then LR, RF, LF which most of us are familiar with for the older cars. It doesn't surprise me that the Toyota manual would be similar. Best policy is to just do what the service manual specifies. Time and things change.

The dealer technician uses the Techstream scanner to actuate the entire braking system, including the ABS control valves, to get all the old fluid out. There is a program in the scanner for it. Costs about $150.00 at my dealer. Money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ukrkoz
Would the procedure change if one used a power bleeder connected to the master cylinder reservoir instead of the pump and hold method described above, specifically steps 6 and 7?

Do steps 6 & 7 activate the HV brake booster and/or antilock brake control?

How does the above procedure compare with a dealer complete brake system flush using a Toyota scan tool? Is the antilock brake control being flushed by this procedure?

This is very interesting. I power flush the brakes on my conventional braking system cars, but have been taking my HVs to the Toyota dealer.

Thanks.
I don't believe a power bleeder would work. My first attempt with out the Toyota FSM I tried a vacuum type bleeder that sucks from the rear bleeder plugs. I was only able to suck out about a tablespoon of fluid.

Yes, steps 6 & 7 turn on the ABS pump system.

I saw a video for a Prius using TechStream. TechStream has a step by step procedure that looked similar to the with out TechStream procedure.


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Well, thank you for posting a non Techstream method. Figures, Toyota had its share of replacing brake actuators under warranty after home brewed fluid replacements. I always cautioned no to attempt that but now, it appears kosher to do.
Should be applicable to any by the wire Toyota braking system too.
 

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04TacoAddiction
When I owned a Prius I saw this same procedure in the Prius service manual but was wary about trying it. Now that you have done it, I am inclined to try it when my Avalon is due for a brake fluid flush in about 10,000 miles. It is great to have another knowledgeable DIYer on this site who shares. Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
04TacoAddiction
When I owned a Prius I saw this same procedure in the Prius service manual but was wary about trying it. Now that you have done it, I am inclined to try it when my Avalon is due for a brake fluid flush in about 10,000 miles. It is great to have another knowledgeable DIYer on this site who shares. Thanks again.
Thank you...
Here is the video for the Prius which is very similar.
 

· I wrench, therefore I am!
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I never heard of non Techstream brake bleeding too. I guess, time for anything. Actuators and valves have to be moved by Techstream in order to properly bleed brakes.
Oh well.
If I introduce a few bubbles in the rear by R&R a caliper, why do I need to move actuators and valves? So long as I get fluid flow, and see bubbles exiting (clear tube) and then no bubbles, how does that not work?

If I replaced any brake part ahead of or at the ABS controller, then I'm needing the special procedure, agreed. But to bleed for a caliper change, or simply to flush the lines to replace with new fluid, why do I need to move actuators and valves?
 

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If I introduce a few bubbles in the rear by R&R a caliper, why do I need to move actuators and valves? So long as I get fluid flow, and see bubbles exiting (clear tube) and then no bubbles, how does that not work?

If I replaced any brake part ahead of or at the ABS controller, then I'm needing the special procedure, agreed. But to bleed for a caliper change, or simply to flush the lines to replace with new fluid, why do I need to move actuators and valves?
If you don't operate the ABS controller while flushing the brake fluid you will have an incomplete flush. The old brake fluid will remain inside the ABS controller. Eventually the old fluid can cause the ABS valves to malfunction and illuminate the brake warning light. A new ABS controller is very expensive.
 

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I was always doing brake fluid flushes without activating ABS controller. Never even thought about it. 10 years on Honda Odyssey, 15 years on VW Passat(sold) and 20 year bmw. Guess i am lucky. So far no issues. Also the shops i used, i never saw them doing it (chain shops, interdependent shops)

I guess if i have a Foxwell Toyota software pack, i can do it. I have the foxwell tool (only have Honda software package in it).

Found a video ->
.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After watching the above video I upgrade the software on my Foxwell NT530 with Toyota module to test for new functions. Unfortunately Air Bleed in Special Functions is still unavailable on my 13 Avalon HV.
 
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