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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Would anyone know either:

1) Which color (grey / white) is positive or
2) How to test to find out which is positive? (without opening up the front door panel) ?

I wish to replace the 4 ohm tweeters in the dashboard of my non-JBL equipped car with something that has a bigger midrange presence. The car is built much like the RAV4, and the wiring to the stock tweeter has four wires going to it because the tweeter is wired in parallel with the door speakers.

There are two colors - white and grey. However, I don't know which one is positive and which one is negative. Does anyone know or have access to some kind of wiring diagram to know?

Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
I used Kicker 3.5" KS Series 47KSC3504 Coaxial speakers in the dash:

Amazon.com: Kicker 47KSC3504 KS Series Car Audio 3.5 Inch Coaxial 15 to 50 Watts RMS Power Factory Replacement Car Audio Sound System Speakers (Pair): Electronics

I used these instead of the more common JBL Club 322 / 3020 & Infiniti Reference 3022CFX / 3032CFX speakers among RAV4 circles for two reasons:
  1. The Kickers use a silk dome tweeter and I wanted to avoid some of the "harshness" that some have written about when using the JBL / Infinity speakers with their PEI dome tweeters
  2. The Kickers are a 4 Ohm speaker --- the factory used a 4 ohm tweeter in the dash, and I did not want to use anything less (The JBL / Infinity speakers are 3 ohms) in order not to stress the factory amplifier built into the headunit.
The stock OE configuration has a tiny tweeter in the dashboard and a midbass in the front doorpanels, so only the very highest of frequencies comes at you from the dash/windshield/hood. Everything else, including a majority of music vocals, comes from your ankles. It is very muddy. My goal was to increase the perception that vocals were coming out of the dashboard. For instance, vocals from Norah Jones / Diana Krall should be coming from in front of you, not from your ankles!

Anyways, after I hooked everything up and backed off the treble by one notch, I was very pleased with the sound. The vehicle is certainly not audiophile quality by any stretch of the imagination, but now it is good enough for an everyday driver (as opposed to sounding like mud), and the total cost of < $100 made the change worth it.

I'm kind of OCD when it comes to wiring, so I socketized everything with 2.8mm 2-pin Molex-style connectors for easy assembly / disassembly. I have an absurd hatred of crimp-on butt connectors, spade-connectors, and vampire taps. I did procure the "Red Wolf" Toyota adapters (so as to interface with the Toyota connectors and not have to cut wiring) that are notorious for being wired in reverse. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RMZ4CR6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 At first I tried to remove the terminals inside the connector, but even with specialized electrical-terminal removal tools, I was unable to do so. So, to address the reverse wiring, I reversed everything again with my molex-style connectors.

Note that the Kickers are a tad more cumbersome to use with the "Red Wolf" adapters because the Kickers do not let you use the spade terminal on the speaker basket itself to make a connection. The Kickers utilize a non-integral crossover - meaning the cross over is supplied in a small wiring harness that you must plug into THREE terminals on the speaker basket. On the other end of the wiring harness are two tinned ends of bare wire.

You can see the work below. Note that I tried it with and without the bass blockers, and I preferred the sound without the bass blockers as I felt that the 600Hz bass blockers removed too much vocal sound-information. It was easy to remove the bass blockers since I had socketized everything.

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NIce.confused as to why there are 3 connections on speaker since you used the adapter ?
Right, the connections go like this:

FACTORY-SPEAKER-CONNECTOR —> REDWOLF-ADAPTER —> KICKER-CROSSOVER-WHICH-TERMINATES-INTO-3SPADE-TERMINALS —> KICKER-SPEAKER
 

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Nice write up! I installed some Infinity 3.5in speakers in my 2nd gen Highlander a few months ago and I will agree they have a harsh high frequency. I was able to adjust it down with the Pioneer HU that I have, so now they sound great. Your lucky those things just bolted straight in, I had to cut some of the dash out in order to fit them for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Right! Those might end up sounding quite good and I know they are very popular with the RAV4 crowd. I was trying to play it safe and use 4 ohm speakers since the factory tweeter is rated at 4 ohms. Since the factory door midbass and the factory tweeter are wired in parallel, the load presented to headunit is 2 ohms.

The JBL speaker is rated at 3 ohms, which means in parallel with the 4 ohm door midbass, presents a 1.71 ohm load to the headunit's amplifier. Not sure if the 0.29 ohm difference is material or not .... it probably won't make any difference if you listen at normal (non-CRANK-IT !!!!) listening levels.
 

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When using a passive crossover, ohm-impedance math changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The install was plug and play with the adapter cable. ON the sound quality I would say its an upgrade not a huge one. but better than OEM speakers.
Right,

In my experience, the whole point for doing so is to make vocals appear to come from in front of you as opposed to coming from around your ankle area....... more of a spatial perception change than a frequency response change. The factory setup has all the midrange frequencies coming from around your ankles.

For less than $100, I was very satisfied with the result from a cost/benefit perspective.
 
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