[eccracer104]

Hey all, just looking for any tips or tricks to replacing the U-joint on our trucks. Pretty sure it should be simple but always safe to get some advice first. Also any notable difference between buying OEM vs Kragen or NAPA for a replacement universal joint?

--I have a 2007 V6, 6 lug, Double Cab Pre Runner TRD Off Road--

Thanks!

 

[TurDonor]

Nope, they press out just like any other U-joint on the road. To drop the shaft you'll have to unbolt the center bearing from the frame, just leave it on the drive shaft.

I don't know about relative quality. I've run Napa U-joints in my Ranger for several years without failure.

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

Just wanted to throw this out for you, OEM UJOINTS are $75.24 each MSRP. I sell them for 52.67 plus shipping. This at least gives you something to gauge on or if you are shopping around.

 

[JROCKS]

What makes you change your u-joints? A vibration problem? Are you selling lots of these toyopartsman?

 

[TOYOPARTSMAN]

It is usually for vibration. I am not selling a lot of them, but enough to stock them. I sell on average one, maybe two a month. In the grand scheme of things, for me, that's not a lot. It is just enough that when a customer does come in, I have the parts should they want to fix the car.

 

[eccracer104]

It is pressed in? Do I need a special tool to remove it and then a press to put it back in?

I need to replace it because its vibrating, sounds like metal from time to time and makes the worst squeaking/chirping noise if i don't cover it in lubricant.

 

[landphil]

Matchmark everything before you remove and disassemble, so it all goes back together the same and keeps factory balance.

A hammer and a good vice should do the trick for disassembly and assembly.

 

[TurDonor]

Yes, press them in and out, once you remove the clip. A vice works, although it is a little unwieldy with that long shaft. I have a handheld press that look like a C-clamp. For punches and receiver tubes (whatever they are called), I just use sockets.

 

[eccracer104]

Bringing an old thread to life again. So my u joint finally failed and snapped, now I am trying to replace it.

So far I have the carrier bearing unbolted and all four bolts at the rear of the driveshaft removed...but the driveshaft doesn't seem to want to drop. I've tried prying it, kicking it and pulling it but it wont budge. Any advice?

EDIT: Nevermind, kept hitting it with a hammer and finally got it to drop.

 

[motomonte]

I'm also going to re-visit this thread.just changed the mid driveshaft joint today,went fairly easy(1 hr job) A word of advice:whenever you hear a clanking noise when releasing the gas and pressing it again or when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse better check the univ. joints.this could save a ton of money.just as I was popping the old bearings out the whole thing came appart.one of the caps was already broken and most of the bearings were all rusted even tough the whole joint looked o.k. on the outside. my 2cts.

 

[eccracer104]

^ I second that. A clunking noise while changing from D-R and R-D. Or a jolting feeling from coasting to gas, then a free feeling after letting off the gas. All a sign of a failing u joint. Truck runs smooth as silk now that I have a new u joint, and i replaced the cracked yoke.

 

[Dante's Taco]

I'm also going to re-visit this thread.just changed the mid driveshaft joint today,went fairly easy(1 hr job) A word of advice:whenever you hear a clanking noise when releasing the gas and pressing it again or when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse better check the univ. joints.this could save a ton of money.just as I was popping the old bearings out the whole thing came appart.one of the caps was already broken and most of the bearings were all rusted even tough the whole joint looked o.k. on the outside. my 2cts.

If you don't mind me asking, is yours a PreRunner i.e. you do not have the greasable zerks along the driveline, right?

I'm just wondering. I do have the zerks, and keep up with the greasing of them pretty frequently. The 3 on the rear drive line at least 2 x year, the front 2 once / year. Wonder if that will prolong this from happening?

D

 

[blckgnznstuff]

Grease fittings look to be on the 4x4 models only. Yes, grease regularly, and it should be good for a long time. I do mine 2 or three times a year. I have over 180,000 KM on a 2006 DCV6, so far no issues. (knocks on wood for good measure)

 

[motomonte]

In response to Dante's question:The truck is a '05 pre-runner(not 4x4).It had the factory joints that don't come with grease fittings.So far i have replaced all of them (3) with aftermarket units that do have the fittings.I expect them to last a lot longer now.Also I'm considering of getting some rubber boots to cover them from dirt/water etc.I've seem them in some industrial applications so I'll give it a try...

 

[hdman97]

Toyota replaced mine on a 05 under
warranty.Drive line warranty.
They sounded like a cat was hungup under there.

 

[heavytiresmoke]

Hello to everyone. I'm sorry to bring up a old thread. I have had my Tacoma for 4 years and enjoyed the truck very much other than having a few problems here and there its been good up till the last year.

I have a 2006 Tacoma Prerunner 4door cab with short box. I have had issues with the vibrations for the last year. It just gets worse and when I last had it repaired the mechanic said its normal and he did a reset on the codes by plugging his laptop in. Unaware of the problem, he didnt tell me the codes and it started driving a little better. Now I am having the same issues but alot more intense to the point I dont even drive it and now want it fixed. I was planning on going to a more professional mechanic or dealer to see whats wrong but then I stumbled on this absolutely gratious forum that I should have joined the day I bought the truck.

The issues I am having are as follows for anyone who can help and point me to the right direction:

The truck vibrates at low speeds during slow acceleration, sometimes there is a slight hesitation and a thud and will start driving normal again. On braking there is also a thud sometimes and a abrupt stop. I have cleaned the MAF and throttle bodies thinking that could be the issue, recently changed the battery and had a oil change.

From reading a few threads I see it could be a U-joint issue and my question was, Which ones would need to be replaced?
I am ready to replace all of them but dont know the part no so if anyone could list them? I am also in this place called Canada where its so hard to get parts so if anyone can suggest a retailer for the parts would be really helpful.

Anyone with similar issues can help with part no's if its not related to the joints?

I am not mechanically inclined to do the work but have a local mechanic that says he will replace the parts and also suggested getting the codes read, now I have a OBD2 cable but anyone know what software I need to download as the computer I used to have with the sw got stolen so I am stuck with a cable?