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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited by Moderator)
While doing my right side wheel bearing, my mobile mechanic said hub needed replacement, ruffed up from grinding bearing, so I said f it replace the cv axle shaft, steering bellow too. 3 days pounding on carrier bearing, 3 and 5 lb hammers, sm. crowbars, chisels etc(off and on while doing other stuff) bearing not budging, can of PB blaster, torched, nothing, told him try putting my 2 half inch extensions together, 3/8ths adapter, small 3/8ths extension, pound away different spots, came off in minutes. Sure the other pounding helped.
Barely rusty slight brown film.
Any prepping on the new cv, other then new oil seal and greasing the splines,
Wheel Bearing, is there a preferred one, or a 40 dollar one from O'Reilly good.
Tie rod bellow been torn quite a while, just lube the joint, or fill the bellow with grease.
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Should bearing be deeper, don't look like old one did, new bushing wider? mechanic said wouldn't go down no more. I'll rent a installer myself if wrong, or gut out the old one and use it to pound that down more.
Thanks
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited by Moderator)
Ok he didn't use tool, still under my awning, bolt to thick to go through bushing, like wheel bearing, so I popped it off, used adapters and gutted old bushing as a set piece, had son beat it with 5 lb. gutted bearing on its side.
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When editing duplicates add on. ¯\(ツ)
 

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The seized support bearing is very common and often the biggest headache is changing these axles. If the old axle is still in good condition (no clicking or visible wear inside), I'd keep it and reboot using Toyota CV boots from an online dealer. However, putting a new aftermarket axle is fast and often has lifetime warranty. I've done both ways but do prefer the original axle. A new support bearing is available from Toyota as well, but at over 1/2 the cost of an aftermarket axle, LOL!

Looking at your pictures, yes it's a good time to change out the axle seal at the differential. I'd clean up the grease visible in the rack there and consider changing out the inner tie rod end as well. Looks like the existing one may be drooping? If you've come this far I wouldn't just grease the joint and boot up. No, the boot should not be filled with grease. The rack teeth could use a little grease, but that's on the driver side. (However, if you want to reuse that inner tie rod, stuff some grease in the joint there).

I can't tell the wheel bearing installation, but the large circlip should be able to snap back into the groove. If so you should be golden. If the bushing isn't perfectly sized then the old outer bearing race can be used to seat it. Your mechanic should know on installing the bearing into the knuckle, only apply force to the outer race; and while installing the hub, support the inner race to protect the new bearing. The axle nut needs to be torqued to spec with the wheel off the ground to set the proper bearing preload for its longevity.

Looks like the lower control arm is fairly new too? Like the bushing there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The seized support bearing is very common and often the biggest headache is changing these axles. If the old axle is still in good condition (no clicking or visible wear inside), I'd keep it and reboot using Toyota CV boots from an online dealer. However, putting a new aftermarket axle is fast and often has lifetime warranty. I've done both ways but do prefer the original axle. A new support bearing is available from Toyota as well, but at over 1/2 the cost of an aftermarket axle, LOL!

Looking at your pictures, yes it's a good time to change out the axle seal at the differential. I'd clean up the grease visible in the rack there and consider changing out the inner tie rod end as well. Looks like the existing one may be drooping? If you've come this far I wouldn't just grease the joint and boot up. No, the boot should not be filled with grease. The rack teeth could use a little grease, but that's on the driver side. (However, if you want to reuse that inner tie rod, stuff some grease in the joint there).

I can't tell the wheel bearing installation, but the large circlip should be able to snap back into the groove. If so you should be golden. If the bushing isn't perfectly sized then the old outer bearing race can be used to seat it. Your mechanic should know on installing the bearing into the knuckle, only apply force to the outer race; and while installing the hub, support the inner race to protect the new bearing. The axle nut needs to be torqued to spec with the wheel off the ground to set the proper bearing preload for its longevity.

Looks like the lower control arm is fairly new too? Like the bushing there.
Great info, thanks, had new wheel bearing and hub pressed at a machine shop, my cheap impact wouldn't press old wheel bearing out,
So that's ready, got a new axle seal ready to swap, I did buy a cv axle throw that on, too late to return, definitely store my original it came apart during dismantle. Funds are limited so new inner tie rod be later, have to do the driver's side wheel bearing to, wheel top to bottom movement, no side to side.
Tie rod bellow been torn up quite awhile, assume grit caused the drooping.
Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited by Moderator)
The seized support bearing is very common and often the biggest headache is changing these axles. If the old axle is still in good condition (no clicking or visible wear inside), I'd keep it and reboot using Toyota CV boots from an online dealer. However, putting a new aftermarket axle is fast and often has lifetime warranty. I've done both ways but do prefer the original axle. A new support bearing is available from Toyota as well, but at over 1/2 the cost of an aftermarket axle, LOL!

Looking at your pictures, yes it's a good time to change out the axle seal at the differential. I'd clean up the grease visible in the rack there and consider changing out the inner tie rod end as well. Looks like the existing one may be drooping? If you've come this far I wouldn't just grease the joint and boot up. No, the boot should not be filled with grease. The rack teeth could use a little grease, but that's on the driver side. (However, if you want to reuse that inner tie rod, stuff some grease in the joint there).

I can't tell the wheel bearing installation, but the large circlip should be able to snap back into the groove. If so you should be golden. If the bushing isn't perfectly sized then the old outer bearing race can be used to seat it. Your mechanic should know on installing the bearing into the knuckle, only apply force to the outer race; and while installing the hub, support the inner race to protect the new bearing. The axle nut needs to be torqued to spec with the wheel off the ground to set the proper bearing preload for its longevity.

Looks like the lower control arm is fairly new too? Like the bushing there.
Manual don't say anything about torqing to set wheel bearing, back off, re torque.
My online pdf manual missed a few points in other repairs.
Recomend set bearing procedure or just torque and move on, thanks
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just had son torque and moved on, about to throw tire on, do drivers side strut and brakes. Have to do wheel bearing next payday, any noise take apart now. Very little top to bottom movement
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
LH side really needs a seal, don't know if it's visable.
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After finished, then daughter gets hit, forcing her into someone on freeway, all slamming brakes do to idiot stopping to merge into a long exit ramp, not at fault, her and dudes in front had no cosmetic damage, all went their way, but seems to vibrate, like a broken caliper when braking, jacked her up, all looks fine, no mobility, noise at all in wheels turning or rocking. Possible rotors warped? Guese I'll buy a couple and check it out. Had to add 2+ quarts trans fluid, didn't look like that much came out.
 
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