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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
..ok I’d like to amend a detail from part 1..the RH cylinder head, (nearest firewall), leaked initially from the combustion chamber INTO the cooling system causing intermittent overheating. (and one big over-heat that, according to my neighbor that, “made the engine start knocking immediately”
Recap..
Ok so the engine would knock/rattle like crazy on start-up, warm or cold, and then actually sound strong with no rattle after 2000 rpm…I thought rod knock, (and was 80% sure), and it was, and I replaced the main, thrust and con rod bearings. Reused pert near everything…actually I only replaced the oil pump o-ring and made gaskets with Orange RTV every where…It worked everywhere but the oil pan…and I don’t know if it was from the trauma I put it through while shoehorning that engine back into the bay but I did have to go back with cork gasket…blue rtv applied both sides of gasket, (no leaks).
I was not head gasket educated and should have stepped back, (impossible for me without experience), and found out why the rod started knocking. While rebuilding the lower end I actually, on multiple occasions, had to move the #1 piston/con rod assembly down its cylinder and found it was so much easier than the other pistons….no compression, not even a little. I was more scared of taking the head off and dealing with all those camshafts…also I “tested” for head gasket problems….didnt smell like gas in the coolant reservoir, no bubbles seen in the water neck…zero oil in the coolant, HA!. Compression test would have been definitive, (for this engine anyway), and those kits at the parts store that detect fuel in the coolant would have worked.
So now the lower end is rebuilt (no rings, not taking the heads off if I can help it) and I have to put it in the car. OMG!…just put the harmonic balancer on after the engine is bolted in. That was a nightmare with the balancer on…the engine needs quite a tilt, in 2 different planes to mate up. Flywheel side down and LH bank down..so tilted diagonally up towards the passenger side mirror…makes it easier to grab that firewall side motor mount.
I’d attach the power steering pump as it becomes available while lowering the engine. I hate the power steering. Hate.
Everything else is pretty straightforward. Baling wire was helpful for keeping stuff tied back. If you do this alone as I did it will be one of your top 3 tools of the project. #1 was a good light.
So its in and comes on quick after turning the key. No knock, a little rough. Still no smoke out the tail pipe. And then, smoke out the tail pipe. The new bearings raised the oil pressure and now the oil passage to the head pushes the last bit of head gasket out of the way and heads for the cooling jacket. The oil pan has so much coolant in it when I drain it. The white clouds from the tail were huge. I thought for a second, “just be some coolant in the exhaust system burning off”. At least I can keep the engine in to do this part. I pulled the crap off the top and got to the head bolts which had two loose. The other 8 came out and the bolt holes looked factory fresh. The loose ones had coolant in them and didn’t know what to think. Cracks or what? It just seeped in I found. The bolt holes don’t go all the way through into any jackets or the like.
At this point I had to clean the head and deck. It had the factory composite gasket and left quite a mess. I hear to not use rotating power tools on aluminum but I did to get the material off the deck of the block. It was that thick that I had enough time to stop before getting to the aluminum. As for the cylinder head…I tried the “scooting on the sand-paper topped glass” to resurface/ correct the warp. You see it done on Youtube. Piece of 4’x3’ glass, (approx), with some 120 grit rubber cemented to it. Wd-40 sprayed and then push/pull it flat. My problem with this was it was diving in the front and taking off material off of the front more. I cut a piece of glass that was ½” thick 5”x6” and stuck a cell phone holder with the big suction cup on it, (took it down to the ball socket for a hand grip), and rubber cemented sandpaper to it. I hand planed it. You can feel that you have it flat whilst using this technique. Figure 8’s mostly. Without a PRESICION STRAIGHTEDGE you are dead. I ended up making one out of an old steel square. There is an Irishman on Youtube that can show you, its like the only video oon the subject. (you can also buy one I think, ha). My head wouldn’t let a .002 feeler under any spot and the spec was .0039. Also find out from whatever head gasket manufacturer you’re using how smooth the finish can be. I went too far with my 400 grit. Would have been ok for an MLS gasket but my Felpro composite wanted 50-60 Ra…which is 100-120 grit. I had to go back and rough up my finish..Nuts.
Also did the block deck with the suction-glass tool (120 grit) but didn’t get too crazy as I had seen a picture online of a guy asking through pictures if his deck looked ok for a similar head gasket. So I went and found it. http://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/734347-cleaning-the-deck-for-head-gasket-how-clean-is-clean.html
The deck has a smaller spec, .0028, but I noticed the heat screwed up the head mostly and saved the block much damage. I heard that an aluminum head would be best served (a head that is so warped you would need to plane off .010) by heating it up in the oven and bolting it to something flat, then resurfacing it. Also this warping could cause the cam saddles to be bowed and taking off all that material would get the mating surface flat but still leave an untrue line for the cam. Align boring was suggested at this point. My experience was, ( I planed off .008), that there was no issue but I think the heat up and bolt down technique would help if you actually laid a straightedge and measured some bowing first. Mine didn’t show any.
Installed head and re-used the bolts. In spec so I used them. Funny thing when tightening, I felt the bolt give a little when I got to the last 5 degrees of the 90 degree turn. I think it was crushing the gasket. I thought I spun a bolt but no.
Intalled cams. 12 pounds of torque for the bearing halves. Jeez. You go 13 pounds it strips. Stripped 2. Got 2 slightly longer, (1/4” approx.) 7mm bolts and got them to torque. There is some threads you can catch past the regularly used ones. As if u had to ask,,yes they were the last ones that needed to be torqued. Have to mention that an acetylene torch was used to coax that cam gear bolt off in the first place. That whole situation will have you busting up that cam gear before ever letting you fix something. I’m appalled at how these fasteners get after 20 years.
Timing. This 1995 Camry 1MZFE will not hit the valves with the pistons if you mess up.. I would have, considering I started the engine with the pistons and valves in every position but the right one till I got it. You can get to the #1 spark plug without pulling the plenum. I suggest you just attach a compression guage in there and turn the engine till you get compression building. Turn it by hand the rest of the way and line up the dot to the oil pump mark. That infos everywhere. Then you go up to the cam gears and line those up. Don’t listen to the Haynes manual when it says line up the 2 dots on the flywheel side of the camshafts, (which tech. is the front of the engine). The firewall side is the RH bank..get it? I didn’t for some time. Do it with valve covers on and use the white painted cam marks. This way you cant go wrong and taking that belt and crank pulley on and off screwed me when my belt tensioner gave out in the middle of this and after having it timed perfectly. What sucked was when I looked at the belt marks one uses to time the engine, it led me to believe that the teeth had skipped a bit. (the worn out belt tensioner let the idler pulley start bouncing on the belt and caused a bit of a ruckus hitting the timing guard.) Well those belt marks wont line up with the original cam and rear timing cover marks in who knows how many hundred revs…it was actually still timed..but I “fixed” it by assuming the belt ma….ah screw it…I hope that made sense.
Ok now im good and about to fire it up but not till a piece of my baling wire shorts the alternator out. I just watched it turn bright red and melt off. Oops. I keep the neg. cable off now just like that piece of crap Haynes manual says. I hate Haynes. BTW a good manual for the Camry is at this address. http://www.**********s.com/camry/eg2.pdf These address wont paste right...just look up turbo ninjas camry...or turbo ninjas 1MZFE.
Short but sweet…it cranked but didn’t fire…like a crankshaft position sensor was out. It was the igniter and a p1300 code was stored. All the igniters from 94-96, (maybe more years but these for sure,) will work. Junkyard igniter fired up and that was it for shorted alt. situation. A rat chewed up some coil connectors so I soldered those back. Runs like a top for now…also the rear main seal leak is still to my astonishment fixed from that bottle of Blue Devil Rear Main Sealer. Like 20-30$. Put new hood struts on too. Unless you go pay 50-60$ for stock ones that fit nice I guess your drilling out the old ones. I gotta thank my neighbor for buying the cheapest fuckin shit at every turn…
And thanks for all the people who posted stuff that I read. All this stuff I posted you already know but I didn’t want to be the guy who you guys helped and didn’t come back for an update. I hate those guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
p1300

Yeah this was running like a top until I shorted out the alternator.. It was running great even after I shorted it out and replaced the igniter. The new, (but used), igniter allowed the engine to go from a cranking no fire situation to a fire up and running on all 6 cylinders situation. Then it was time to drive it and the engine cut out at around 2000 rpm's. Back in the driveway it was fired up and ran great then turned into a rough idle after a couple minutes. Revving her up would cut the fuel like the manual had suggested it would during an IGT disruption. Ive read 6 or 7 threads on this problem and I think if I change the ECM I should be in business. All the posts on this seem to go basically the same way. change or test all the coils, change spark plugs, fuel filter, igniter, check coil connectors, check fuel injectors. I think those are the main ones. I have unfortunately ran into a bunch of posts that didn't end in resolution but one did that had changed the ecm, and it was ultimately successful...ill be installing a junk yard version tomorrow. Any insight would certainly be appreciated.
 

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With the '96 4 cyl, which has a one-year ignition setup, be sure to get an ECU with a p/n that matches exactly.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That changes my plans. There was a 94' I was going to get the ECM/ECU, (same?), from. The igniter from it works on this 95', (but the igniter does have the same p/n actually so kinda moot) Thanks. They have a 95' I'll check into. Its like crispy from a fire but we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ended up resetting the ECM's memory instead of replacing it with a junkyard part. I thought pulling off the bat cable would do but it takes pulling the 15 amp ecm fuse. It has a backup power source akin to what the radio needs to keep time. All codes cleared. When the knock sensor DTC codes showed up I was relieved. At least that's more manageable than that P1300. Drives great.....for now. (put 3 miles on it)
 
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