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92 king cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well guys the problem still exists! so i changed all my filters, new full exhaust, seafoamed, new wires plugs, cap, rotor , MAF. here is the deal. . . . lets first start with the startup, some days it will start and idle at 1200 til warm which is pretty normal, then when it gets to normal temp, it will pulse like the 14567890 other 22re out there, which is an indication that it is running good to this truck. other days such as cold days or wet weather, it will barely idle and stall. when throttle is applied, it bogs even when it is in nuetral. if your driving, then your screwed. it is either all or none. anywhere in between it just wants to die until it almost does then it will give a little. they amazingly after a bit of driving it will do a complete turn around and run perfectly, no pulse at idle, no bogging, perfect. then as soon as you turn it off and restart, back to the same deal. i am thinking it is electrical, because it happens in cold and wet weather, but one restart, not even 5 seconds to coll down it will start messing up again. any help would be apreciated.



1992 dlx xtra cab, 22re, trailmaster lift, 33x12.50x15, LC headers, magnaflow 2 1/4 cat/muff
 

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92 king cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter #2
cool, no one knows
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
It sounds to me like there may be more than one problem

Your cold idle is controlled by the Auxillary air valve. It is attached to the bottom of your throttle and operates much like a thermostat for the cooling system, except backwards (open cold /closed hot). These can get sticky and cause the idle to be too low when cold and at another time when they do open they can stay open too long and cause the idle to be high. Often high enough to create the "surge" condition. You want to make sure that the engine is actually reaching operating temperature and that the cooling system is in fact full. Too low of operating temp or low coolant will prevent the Auxillary Air Valve from working properly. When the engine is warm and the idle is too fast, pull the air boot from the throttle and block the passage for the auxillary air valve with duct tape (you may have to clean the throttle real good to get the tape to stick, so check to see if that needs to be taken care of before starting) If the idle drops down, then the Auxillary Air Valve is open and it should be closed when hot. If this makes no difference, let me know. If it is sticking, you can try cleaning it with carb cleaner. Basically you can fill it and let it soak for 10 or 15 minutes then clean it out. Sometimes this will get it to work. If not you'll have to replace it. then go back and set the idle speed to spec when hot and then let it set so that you can check the cold idle operation.

The bogging down thing could be fuel or spark related.

When you changed your spark plugs , how did they look?

What is the fuel pressure and O2 sensor voltage when the symptoms are occuring?
 

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Lots of city miles combined with low octane fuel & no Techtron fuel additive (cleaner) creates excessive throttle body carbon build up (gunk) so throttle body must be cleaned.

To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build up if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors,TPS's and catalytic converters" do not use carb cleaner make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.

The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at ground level (0 degrees,no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush. You can also use "Sea Foam" the best engine cleaner:

http://www.seafoamsales.com

available in Canada through UAP/NAPA Auto Parts Stores.

About half of the ECU codes stored on the first & second generation EFI Toyotas don't show a constant blinking check engine light therefore you must pull the ECU codes to see if a fault is registered.

To pull the ECU codes:

All 1980-1995 and including 1995 EFI equipped vehicle allow you to find engine and related faults by pulling the ECU (computer) codes without the need for a handheld OBDII diagnosis scanner, the sites listed below have the fault codes needed to pull the codes and the
instructions on how to do it:

http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-36.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-53.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-71.htm
http://autorepair.about.com/library/ts/obd-i/bl-dtcs-90.htm
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote12.htm
http://lcengineering.com/TechNotes/TechNote13.htm
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Pit/9975/dataBySubject/Engine.html
http://www.mad-mechanic.com/toyota/toyotaobd.shtml#obtaincode
http://www.freewebs.com/th3duke/22RE-ECU.mht
http://www.troublecodes.net/Toyota
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h27.pdf
http://www.showmesome.info/hilux/info/manuals/1KZ-TE/Page0096.htm
http://www.efisakh.narod.ru/at_toyota.htm (auto tranny codes)
http://www.usatransdoctor.com/foreigntoyota.htm
http://www.obd-codes.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=3

Pulling the ECU (EFI computer) codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements at each ECU wire both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual, I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare the resistance values with the factory service manual. This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's, vcr's, home/car audio.

Sidney® ™
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
E-mail:[email protected]
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,253 000 KM

:kingme: for I am :canada:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys, i will look into both of those. i didn't know that our trucks could give us codes by the CE light. that it was lil too advanced. . . .shows how much i know:confused:. . . . i seafoamed before but i cant remember if ther was that much of a diff. i dont recall. i recently ordered new injectors from LC and am going to install them when i have time, and clean the intake manifold while i am in that area. it is kinda weird that when it is musky or wet or i go out to the levy that it wull bog, well trial and error is the way to go. . . . . .i went to toyota and tey told me i needed a new MAF so i got one and still the same crap, that is why i like doing it myself. hopefully i'll get to that this weekend, and maybe a jumk yard run for some interior parts and bedliner.
i'll keep you updated
 

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92 king cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter #6
so i took off the aux air meter. . . .i think, if it is the second tube from the air box that goes to the big ball under the throttle body. it was not sucking at idle, but after i reved it it would, then stop. sounded like an engine brake on a desiel lol. . .pretty BA. but it wouldn't suck at idle then after the rpm would come down and then it would stop. also on the bottom of the throttle control there is a small black button that is pose to be pressed by a screw when the throttle is depressed. well there is no screw, i pressed the button but no diff. what is that button and do i need to fix it? and is the aux air ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
after i took off the air intake and put it back on, i was driveing later that night, and the check engine light was off. . . .dont know when it occuredd but it turned off
 

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sounds like me = i gotta 94 22re .. here is a pic of my efi - i know that the black circled hose needs to go somplace.. it was capped.. but when i uncap - it doesn't idle that high... and fluctuates when braking a lot less...

btw.. i don't have power steering assembly/AC..

tell me what is supposed to go where.. obviously the blue square is not stock.. so im not sure.

http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=71549791kl1.jpg

any help would be awesome!!!!...
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
anklenawer said:
sounds like me = i gotta 94 22re .. here is a pic of my efi - i know that the black circled hose needs to go somplace.. it was capped.. but when i uncap - it doesn't idle that high... and fluctuates when braking a lot less...

btw.. i don't have power steering assembly/AC..

tell me what is supposed to go where.. obviously the blue square is not stock.. so im not sure.

http://img370.imageshack.us/my.php?image=71549791kl1.jpg

any help would be awesome!!!!...
that fitting and the plug that you have assumed is not stock are used when the truck is equipped with air conditioning.

By uncapping that pipe you are introducing unmetered (and unfiltered) air in to your throttle this will affect your air fuel ratio causing your truck to idle slower.

This is not how to fix your truck!

The next step using this mentality is to start hitting things with a hammer.

Do a thorough search on idle problems and see if you can make sense of it.

If not, I would recommend that you find someone who knows what they are doing to help you.
 

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92 king cab 4x4
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Discussion Starter #10
i completely agree. . . . but my problem i think is the coil. all the injectors are working, it idles good when the throttle isn't stuck, but in between idle and fullthrottle it is crappy, i am thinking it is the coil or something along the ignition. soud right?
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
Secondary ignition problems are the most common cause of misfires under load. Ignition coils, while they are usually not the culprit on our trucks, can certainly cause the problem you've described.

I asked before, How did your spark plugs look when you changed them? The reason I asked this is because if your fuel ratio is excessively rich it will cause your spark plugs to soot up and create running problems just like you've described.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yea i dont recall them being too built up when i removed them, but i have been meaning to remove them and check them, they are only about 4 months old so if there is a problem it has def been long enough to tell, i will check them in the morning and hit you back, thanks for all the help so far
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok i took out the plugs. . . . nothing major, 3 and 4 were glazed a slight bit, so i cleaned them and reinstalled them. . . . . . make any sence yet?
also i notices two things
first, there is a electrical plug that connects to the metal fuel line that is connected to the efi, then there is another plug, but it is not connected to anything .. . . is that right?
also on the throttle, there are two screws, one that controls where the trhottle returns, that is located on the bottom, then there is also a button that is engaged when the throttle is depressed, it presses the button when there is no throttle on but i have no screw, i am gonna install one right now though
 

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if you have a camera, take a pic, if not, maybe fine a pic of an engine similar to yours, and edit it with paint or something and circle things that you think arnt correct...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
UPDATE!!! i checked the ecu, and 3 codes cam up, i think lol. . . .21, 27, 43
21:
  • Oxygen Sensor Signal / Oxygen Sensor Heater Signal
  • Open or Short in Oxygen Sensor or Oxygen Sensor Signal
27:
  • Sub-Oxygen Sensor Circuit or Sub-Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit
  • Sub-Oxygen Sensor / Heater Circuit
  • ECU
43:
  • Starter Signal - No "STA" Signal to ECU until Engine Speed Exceeds 800RPM
  • Ignition Switch / Circuit
  • ECU
the only O2 sensor i know of is the one on the exhaust, i am ordering that today.

but the other two, i am lost. sub O2 sensor? STA?
if anyone has any ideas let me know, i am gonna be up to my neck in this forum and the toyota manual til i figure it out
 

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IAC Valve

can anyne show/tel e where the hell my IAC valve is?

if you look at the pics there aren't any hoses where there should be i think..

but if anyone could take a pic of where it is.. or tell me ( i gotta 94, 22re ... fuel injected)

it would be a badass move on your guys part

take care people
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve is on Tacoma models that have computer controlled idle.

Earlier model trucks like the ones people on this forum are discussing have an Auxillary Air Valve. This is thermostaticaly operated. It is attached to the bottom of the throttle. If you remove the air boot from the throttle and look inside, you will see a hole about 1/2" in diameter which is the inlet port for the auxillary air valve.
 

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YOTA Master
'93 2wd P/U
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2,434 Posts
cbm! said:
UPDATE!!! i checked the ecu, and 3 codes cam up, i think lol. . . .21, 27, 43
21:
  • Oxygen Sensor Signal / Oxygen Sensor Heater Signal
  • Open or Short in Oxygen Sensor or Oxygen Sensor Signal
27:
  • Sub-Oxygen Sensor Circuit or Sub-Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit
  • Sub-Oxygen Sensor / Heater Circuit
  • ECU
43:
  • Starter Signal - No "STA" Signal to ECU until Engine Speed Exceeds 800RPM
  • Ignition Switch / Circuit
  • ECU
the only O2 sensor i know of is the one on the exhaust, i am ordering that today.

but the other two, i am lost. sub O2 sensor? STA?
if anyone has any ideas let me know, i am gonna be up to my neck in this forum and the toyota manual til i figure it out
code 21 indicates low output from the O2 sensor and could certainly create running problems.

Sub O2 sensor would be after the catalytic converter and is used on california models to monitor catalyst function. It has nothing to do with drivability.

No sta signal would have to be troubleshooted, but it also should not affect your running. I'd suggest clearing these codes and driving around a bit to see if they come back.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
thanks alot, i am gonna check to see if the toyota dealership has replaced my O2 sensor before, and if they can do the freebee deal. if not i guess i'll fork up the 170. I JUST WANT IT TO WORK ;(

hope this solves the moisture problem too (when ever it is wet or the truck gets wet, it runs shitty)
thanks, let you know tomorow
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks alot, i am gonna check to see if the toyota dealership has replaced my O2 sensor before, and if they can do the freebee deal. if not i guess i'll fork up the 170. I JUST WANT IT TO WORK ;(

hope this solves the moisture problem too (when ever it is wet or the truck gets wet, it runs shitty)
thanks, let you know tomorow
 
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