[tranzmetal]

my 22re has been running terrible. It idles and runs fine when it is cold, 2 min down the road and it feels like it is choking to death. It sputters along until i ether put the petal to the floor or get it to 3500 rpm. then it takes off. Even after i have been driving for a while it will clear up, then right back to running bad. I have pulled of the egr and cleaned it, seemed to be working fine. i still have a 7.1 error code. any suggestions.

 

[toytruck89]

7.1 error code?

is this a code 71 from the check engine light?

 

[Sidney]

Code 71 is EGR system failure,check your EGR for being plugged,in many of my other replies I have provide links to FREE factory service manual downloads,all of the 22R-E engines have same basic EGR system so any of the FREE service manual links I provided will help.

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

 

[toytruck89]

if it is your EGR, make sure you check all of your vacuum lines with a vacuum gauge.

 

[A92Pickup4WD]

I have a 92 4x4 22RE with a hesitaion during acceleration.

My truck started doing the exact same thing as mentioned above. Actually ever since I went through a 5 inch deep water puddle going about 25 mph. Now It idles at about 500 rpm and you can hear it missing/sputtering. While driving, it has very little power....like I am driving into 100 mph winds until I hit about 3200 RPM's or so, then It feels like I got a swift kick in the ass by god. It accelerates fine all the way up untill I shift the the cycle starts all over a gain. I have already replaced the plugs, wires, dis cap, and rotor.

The odd thing is the CEL. It only came on a couple times when this happened the other and then shortly after shut off. It has not been on since. The truck is still running like crap. I have searched and searched again but have not found any definate reason for this to occur, and I have found quite a few people with the same problem. Wednesday I am going to start checking out everything again. I will post what I find.

 

[TNRabbit]

Definitely sounds like a vacuum leak; possibly in the intake tube.

 

[Got4wdtoy]

Throttle Position Sensor has a dead spot? Loosen the screws til you can rotate the body and listen to rpms. idle rpm should be 8/900. Had some hesitation around 1500/2000 rpm and found a dead spot in TPS. Quick and cheap change. $100 and two screws if replaced.

 

[A92Pickup4WD]

I appreciate the input, but IMO if it were the TPS then it would only do this at one pedal position not all. Since the accelerator pedals position is in direct relation to the throttle plate and there for the TPS, this cannot be the problem in my situation. The truck falls flat on its face until about 3k RPM no matter what the pedal position. IN fact, I now normally floor it just to get to the 3000 RPM mark so it will accelerate like it should.

Actually, tonight on my way home (.5 miles from my house) it starts working normal, no lag at all throughout the RPM range.

My schedule got changed so I couldnt work on the truck today, but I will tomorrow. Its my goal to figure this thing out once and for all.

Thanks again all

 

[A92Pickup4WD]

OK, so I replaced the coil and cleaned the throttle body then reset the ECU. Took it for a test drive and came back and checked the codes again and got a 27 and a 43. Reset the ECU again and checked the spark plugs and inspected the o2 ....everything looked good. Took it for another drive and still same problem and same codes. I dont understand. 27 is for the Sub 02......My truck is not a California emission vehicles therefor I only have one o2, so why is this code tripping?

Here is a video of my truck today. I have the pedal to the metal in 2nd gear the entire length of the video. You can see how it has no power then BAM as soon as it hits 3K or so it kicks in.

<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://i267.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid267.photobucket.com/albums/ii294/J_alleycat_317/TruckIssue.flv">


http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii294/J_alleycat_317/?action=view&current=TruckIssue.flv


Strange isn't it

 

[ToyoZone]

Code 71

If you are getting a code 71 and your EGR is ok, check the vacuum lines (not for leaks) but for plugged vacuum lines. I had the same problem on my truck and 2 lines were plugged.

Remove each one from end to end and blow air on one end and make sure air comes out at the other end.

After that, you may want to check the VSV (vacuum solenoid valves). Mine was corroded inside so I replaced it (you can open it and clean it too)

Good Luck!!

 

[A92Pickup4WD]

But, I havent ever got a code 71, only 27 and 43. I would think though that I should be getting a code 21 for o2 sensor since I only have one o2.

Now it only does it intermittenly, and not as much when it is warm. I checked again today and the coolant was low, so I topped it off, but hasn't solved problem yet.

 

[Georgiadave]

A92 - Don't hijack threads.

Tranzmetal - Did you follow the troubleshooting directions in the FSM on the sticky? Put vaccum on the EGR and if the engine stalls or runs rough, you have a bad EGR. Use the vaccum hose to the PS pump, if you don't have access to a vaccum pump for this test. If the EGR is OK, follow the rest of the trouble shooting procedure to locate the problem.

 

[toytruck89]

tranzmetal - I use my lungs to perform the EGR test, no need to run it to the PS. If that's easier. and also make sure you are getting vacuum TO the EGR valve.

 

[toytruck89]

a92- I'm at a loss. I would check compression and your oil/water. Neither should have the other in it.

 

[poldo]

This may help to shed a little light on the situation.

I have the same problem with my 93 Toyota PU. It started after I returned from home for Christmas to find that someone had cut and stolen my catalytic converter. In the process, they took the oxygen sensor and left the wires hanging.

The strange thing is I do not have a California Toyota but there are two sets of wires hanging. one has the harness which I believe is the one to the O2 sensor and the other has the harness ripped off.

I ran a straight pipe for the time being until I can afford to buy a new catalytic. It ran fine at first, then started hesitating and would rage once I hit about 3000 RPM.

I thought it may be bad gas beings it started right after I filled up an almost empty tank. I put a bottle of fuel treatment in her and she ran like a beauty again, for a little while. Then it started to hesitate again. I ran it like that for a while and added treatment one more time. While the treatment may help a little, it still hesitates. So I got to thinking, when I filled it up that first time, I also ran it through the car wash. As someone mentioned above...theirs started after going through water.

I am currently waiting for all of the rain to stop so that I can get into a junk yard and have a look to see what the wires go to and maybe pick up the proper harness, O2 brackets, and O2 sensor.

Hope my story helps...any ideas?

 

[A92Pickup4WD]

Poldo - Thanks for the info, I think you might be on to something. When I bought my truck a few weeks ago it did not have any exhaust on it except for the exh manifold. I had a local exh shop put the pieces back together and it ran fine for a week or so until I ran through water. I appreciate the help, and good luck to you.

TO EVERYONE ELSE - sorry for hijacking the thread, I thought we were having the same issue with our trucks at first, I APOLOGIZE.

 

[93toyota pu]

Hesitation

A92Pickup...having same trouble wth my 93 Pickup 2.4L 4x4 manual...runs fine for 2-3 mins upon cold startup and then starts hesitating until 3500 RPM or so. I think it is O2 sensor. Ran fine until I cleaned the O2 with acetone and brake cleaner. The FSM lists a test procedure for the O2. I plan on testing it soon.

 

[toytruck89]

you can test it using propane and a scope. This is the "true" test.. add propane to the intake manifold until the o2 signal wire reads above 850mV, then cut off the propane and "goose" the throttle.. give it a super quick blip and the volts should drop below 150mV (when you cut off the propane) and go above 450mV (when you goose it) within 50 mS.

but most of the time you can just attach a scope to the ground and signal wire to the positive. Then you need to make sure it responds when you make it rich (introduce a vacuum leak, choke it off a little, etc.) or lean and wavers up and down around 450mV. I just can't imagine how water would be affecting the O2 sensor. I'll keep brainstorming

 

[tranzmetal]

if i use suck on the vaccum on the top of the egr it does stall, that indicates that the egr is bad and needs replacement?

 

[poldo]

2 trips to the junk yard and 10 C clamps later, I replaced the O2 sensor and she runs fine. No more check engine light.