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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
An aside: Are the US Made Camrys inferior to the JP Made Camrys? Every US Made Camry I am touching seems to have way more issues than the similar JP made ones. Is this just a random coincidence for me or did you too notice this?


I got a 1999 US Made Camry LE that refuses to start on its own after sitting for extended (2hr+) period of time.

It cranks just fine.

One way of getting it to start after cranking is to feather the pedal (I do not ever floor my cars but perhaps that works too) right as the starter engages.

Once car has been running for a while, subsequent starts run the engine without need for touching the pedal.

Until the next extended rest stop :crying:

My inadequate experience tells me this could be due to a defective fuel "back flow" valve leading to fuel drain back to the pump.

Does this diagnosis make sense to the gurus here?

What can I do to confirm or reject this idea?


What am I looking at and has anyone posted about this here before?
 

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If you have to feather the gas pedal to get it to start, I'd remove and clean the IAC. But first, check the ECT resistance, hot and cold.

Can't comment on J-VIN Vs US built. Never owned a J-VIN
 

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An aside: Are the US Made Camrys inferior to the JP Made Camrys? Every US Made Camry I am touching seems to have way more issues than the similar JP made ones. Is this just a random coincidence for me or did you too notice this?


I got a 1999 US Made Camry LE that refuses to start on its own after sitting for extended (2hr+) period of time.

It cranks just fine.

One way of getting it to start after cranking is to feather the pedal (I do not ever floor my cars but perhaps that works too) right as the starter engages.

Once car has been running for a while, subsequent starts run the engine without need for touching the pedal.

Until the next extended rest stop :crying:

My inadequate experience tells me this could be due to a defective fuel "back flow" valve leading to fuel drain back to the pump.

Does this diagnosis make sense to the gurus here?

What can I do to confirm or reject this idea?


What am I looking at and has anyone posted about this here before?
ECT, seconded. Might be just going out so it doesn't cause rough running once car warms up.

I think flooring the pedal while cranking disables the injectors for flood clear, no?

Tomorrow (weather permitting) I'm going to do a write-up on Stretch86's fuel filter Schrader valve retrofit. If you do that and push the valve in after a couple hours and it doesn't spurt out fuel, that would confirm your guess right?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I think flooring the pedal while cranking disables the injectors for flood clear, no?
It does on most cars: not sure about this one.

Tomorrow (weather permitting) I'm going to do a write-up on Stretch86's fuel filter Schrader valve retrofit. If you do that and push the valve in after a couple hours and it doesn't spurt out fuel, that would confirm your guess right?
Yes, but I don't know if this car has the "back flow" valve: Toyota might use a different mechanism for keeping the fuel from flowing back into the pump.
 

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don't believe these toys have flood crank mode.
pull the hose off the FP regulator and see if there's gas in it or if gas comes out of the regulator while the engine is idling.
pull out the haynes and ohm out the ect, iac, and egr vsv and see if they're within resistance specs.
clean the iac/intake/tb/egr vavle as applicable, with seafoam and your best friend's toothbrush.
do a scotty kilmar cigar smoke test for vacuum leaks - look closely in the creases in the intake snorkle.
tony
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
But first, check the ECT resistance, hot and cold
ECT, seconded. Might be just going out so it doesn't cause rough running once car warms up.
Uhm did I forget to mention that on this car the thermostat has been open for atleast 5 years if not more?

How would that affect rough start though? The cold start would induce more fuel not less, yes?

pull the hose off the FP regulator and see if there's gas in it or if gas comes out of the regulator while the engine is idling.
Before I get started on the Schrader valve retrofit, which FP (fuel pump?) regulator are you recommending? I know where the fuel filter is, but the whole line is a closed unit AFAIK
 

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Uhm did I forget to mention that on this car the thermostat has been open for atleast 5 years if not more?

How would that affect rough start though? The cold start would induce more fuel not less, yes?
I don't think that will make it run rough. If you think about it: on a system with a properly functioning thermostat, the engine starts up with cold coolant in it, and doesn't run rough (everything else working properly). With a stuck-open thermostat, you're starting up with cold coolant as well...it's just that the thermal mass is a lot more so the system warms up much more slowly.

Before I get started on the Schrader valve retrofit, which FP (fuel pump?) regulator are you recommending? I know where the fuel filter is, but the whole line is a closed unit AFAIK


EDIT: Actually I'm confused about that image now...took it off a Google search. AFAIK the FPR is in the fuel pump assembly, is this rail-mounted regulator from a Celica or something? There 's a fuel pressure damper on the other end of the fuel rail, but I don't think that has a vacuum line going to it...

EDIT 2: From ALLDATA, think this is more accurate.

 

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The fuel pressure regulator has a plastic cap. Taking that off, I see a screw in it/rail.

Is @mcgowaw suggesting I remove the screw and see if fuel spurts out off it?
Don't think that's the regulator, that's the damper...regulator is in the tank with the fuel pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Don't think that's the regulator, that's the damper...regulator is in the tank with the fuel pump.
I'm going off the first picture (is that from the FSM?)

The ALLDATA pic does not name the part but it's that blob at the end of the rail.

That has a plastic cap on it. Taking that off, I see a screw in it as if the screw is plugging the rail.

Is @mcgowaw suggesting I remove the screw and see if fuel spurts out off it?
 

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The ALLDATA pic does not name the part but it's that blob at the end of the rail.

That has a plastic cap on it. Taking that off, I see a screw in it as if the screw is plugging the rail.
The part on the driver's side is a fuel pressure pulsation damper. Per that first diagram, there's a fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side on a Gen3. Maybe it got moved to the pump in the tank on the Gen4?
 

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The part on the driver's side is a fuel pressure pulsation damper. Per that first diagram, there's a fuel pressure regulator on the passenger side on a Gen3. Maybe it got moved to the pump in the tank on the Gen4?
Just confirmed, that first image is for a gen3 and I went outside and looked on my '95 and my '00. The '95 has the regulator on the passenger side of the fuel rail.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
After a cold start, how is the idle?
Rough. Sometimes is just dies shortly (2s or less) after starting

Is it high RPM ?
Is it low RPM?
What is the cold and warm idle RPMs?
Will check: this is without me pressing the pedal yes?

Does it stumble?
Yes. Sometimes is just dies shortly (2s or less) after starting. I have to pedal a few times to persuade to keep running

Do you need to press the accelerator pedal to keep it running?
Yes. Sometimes is just dies shortly (2s or less) after starting. I have to pedal a few times to persuade to keep running.

Once it is running, it never ever stumbles until the next cold night.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
well, about a week ago, my fixes included:
clean the iac/intake/tb/egr vavle as applicable, with seafoam and your best friend's toothbrush among other things.
have you tried/done any of those?
tony
tony, I have your recommendations on my list too. At this point I am collecting ideas and suggestions about this car.

This 99 Camry requires a lot of love so I want to complete all work on my 98 Camry (which is in much better shape) first.

I will be working on the 98 Camry first few weeks of March and then hit this 99 Camry after that. Then I have a BIG project with the 2001 Camry.
 

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I agree with others. Check ECT resistance or just replace with Ebay after market for 6-10 dollars. I believe TX-40 is part#.
Check for vacuum leaks. All new hoses may not be a bad idea.
There are various methods for cleaning TB, IAC, EGR . I haven't tried the Seafoam but hear good things. I take parts off and clean with gas and/or TB cleaner, tooth brush, rags, paper towels, que tips. Just watch your lint and cotton doesn't get in there.
You can try starting it with ECT and IAC electrical connections off, alternately. I recall, that it should go to fast idle with IAC connector off. Not 100% sure, on that(could be just older models). If that is true and it does not go high, your IAC may be gunked up. Common problem.
With the ECT off, it should high idle or go into a default mode. You will generate fault codes doing these tests. They will need to be reset.
It is said, that connectors should not be unplugged and/or replugged in, while key is on or running. Not sure but I turn it off.

One more thing, if all else is ok and ECT is suspect, you can test, by putting a resistor in the ECT socket, with out ECT in circuit. Any resistor value between 2K and 6K, should get a constant idle for starting in 60 to 20 degree weather. This is just for testing.
 
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