'94 Toyota Camry
I'm willin' to pay the 8.99 a quart for this motor oil but I need to know if we have Toyo users that can vouch for the oil being WORTH my monies.
02_SLE_6 said:it depends. royal purple is some quality oil and if your going to make it well worth it, then it should be worth your monies. if your just driving around the town and getting around, then i would say its not worth it. fully syn. is good enough for me =|
4 Road Racing Championships ZERO engine problems.Lord_Anarchy said:I'm willin' to pay the 8.99 a quart for this motor oil but I need to know if we have Toyo users that can vouch for the oil being WORTH my monies.
Royal Purple has a habit of thinning below grade during a normal use interval. Whether or not this might be harmful to any particular user during in their application is another matter.JWatson said:4 Road Racing Championships ZERO engine problems.
Royal Purple is THE BEST imo
Please see my prior post, above. RP turns in pretty good overall performance, with the exception of the trend toward thinning during use. The other problem I see is that the UOAs clearly show equal or clearly better performance from other synthetics that cost substantially less. I'd recommend that you peruse and search the BITOG UOA section looking for engine/vehicle combos like or similar to yours and see what oils produced the best results. Look particularly for gross wear products (iron, aluminum, chromium, etc.) and bearing material (lead, tin, aluminum, depending upon your bearing compostion). Chances are you'll find an oil that equals or beats RP for less money.Lord_Anarchy said:I'm willin' to pay the 8.99 a quart for this motor oil but I need to know if we have Toyo users that can vouch for the oil being WORTH my monies.
Probably a total waste. I know I sound like a broken record, but again, look at those UOAs (UOA section, again) . You'll see good syns in healthy engines routinely going 7500 to 10000 miles, no problem. Ironically, the KN may cause an increase in dirt contamination, which will show up as silicon in the UOA. This is ironic because with an improperly handled KN, he may be getting enough dirt in there to warrant very short change intervals. But if that's the case, the syn is also a waste of money. The test results also show that good dinos can do a fine job, just not for as long as a syn. This was a surprise to me, but facts are facts, and I've changed my "assumptions" having seen the proof myself.Edmond said:Do you guys think that an oil can be too good for a car?
The guy across the street has an Escort that is totally stock with the exception of a K&N air filter. He said he doesn't like dino oil because it "isn't tough enough." He's also the type of guy who doesn't know jack crap about cars but he likes to tinker with them. So he changes his oil at 2000 miles because he has nothing else to do and he uses synthetic oil.
Is that just a waste of money or what?
It's true that you must consider the engine-oil-use pattern triangle as a whole. That said, RP, which I've tried myself once with fine results, does seem to have that thinning tendency in several different settings, thus my statement to that effect, pointing to the oil.Toysrme said:ekpolk I'm on bob's forum also. IMHO that's a great place for oil anylasys, but don't forget a lot of those say as much about the engine as they do the oil.
Edmond 2000 and 3000 mile oil changes are BS on a good engine with dino oil.
I'm 21, does anyone 25 or older not remember that the "change the oil every 3,000 miles" crap didn't start until around 20 years ago?