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Discussion Starter #41
Ok. I am gonna take this one step at a time I think.

Check the vacuum hose (1 hose only) & electrical connector to the MAP sensor, mounted on the back firewall by the Throttle Body first.
Connection to the MAP is good. Cleaned the connections but they looked great. The vacuum line is intact and looks great.

I am gonna go get a vacuum pump so I can test out the EGR and pull the VSV and test that it is working too. Replace what I need to.

For the EGR, test the easiest and most common failure first: pull the VSV off the back of the engine and check these electrical things:

  • resistance 33-39 ohms at 20 deg C (this will not change significantly in a wide range of temperatures)
  • NO continuity between either pin and the case
...I recently replaced one of these on an '00 with 77K that had been driven stop-and-go for basically the first 50K of its life. That's what wears these out; part-throttle cycling, since EGR only operates when warm and not WOT. Checked resistance, read 48 ohms, but dropped slowly to 39 over several minutes...I assumed because I took it off a hot engine, but now know after tested several junkyard ones that isn't the case (read the parentheses above). Tested all other components in EGR (all perfect), cleaned EGR and tube (which were nearly perfect), and same code. Retested VSV after some part-throttle driving, and it read 129 ohms...was failing intermittently after it had been in operation for several minutes. My point is, test under different conditions, not just once.

Replaced with Aisin VST-006 and all good. Every VST-006 I've ever gotten has read exactly 35 ohms new on a Fluke 88 and a Fluke 88V. Also, apparently they updated the internal seal from the OE part to a fluoropolymer one to help stem failure from internal leaks.

For the P0446, if you're smelling gas, it's getting out of the car somewhere. Smoke out the system.
Do I need to do an ohm test or can I just do a vacuum test with 12 v to make sure it is working?

How would I do a smoke test. Never done one, but ready to learn.
 

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short-throw dipstick
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Do I need to do an ohm test or can I just do a vacuum test with 12 v to make sure it is working?

How would I do a smoke test. Never done one, but ready to learn.
Ohm test, vacuum test will need physical access anyway because it's a solenoid valve and you need to test flow from port to port when energized and not. Ohm test will rule out 99% of EGR VSV IME.

Plenty of ways as long as you can generate smoke. A decent eBay (prosumer-grade) smoke machine will do 90% of what a pro-grade $800 machine will: generate smelly - but very visible - smoke from mineral oil. Scotty Kilmer (ugh) does it with a cigar and his own mouth. Some have had luch using party fog machines. Or you can Google how to build your own.

Then you look at the EVAP portion of the vacuum diagram under your hood and determine where to pump in smoke so that a VSV won't hold it up. Might have to smoke out at multiple locations. You pump in smoke, and look for where it's coming out.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Ohm test, vacuum test will need physical access anyway because it's a solenoid valve and you need to test flow from port to port when energized and not. Ohm test will rule out 99% of EGR VSV IME.

Plenty of ways as long as you can generate smoke. A decent eBay (prosumer-grade) smoke machine will do 90% of what a pro-grade $800 machine will: generate smelly - but very visible - smoke from mineral oil. Scotty Kilmer (ugh) does it with a cigar and his own mouth. Some have had luch using party fog machines. Or you can Google how to build your own.

Then you look at the EVAP portion of the vacuum diagram under your hood and determine where to pump in smoke so that a VSV won't hold it up. Might have to smoke out at multiple locations. You pump in smoke, and look for where it's coming out.
Is there a feed with the ohm testing procedure on the EGR? I have a multimeter, but not super versed in it yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Alright. Tested. Bad vsv. So I have a new one ordered. Also ordered the modulator and an egr valve gasket so I can clean it up. Just gonna do it all at once to know that it is handled. The modulator was cheap enough that it was worth it. Gonna remove the TB and clean it and the IAC up while I am at it.

As for the P0446....I put a new gas cap on today to see if that fixed it and the gas smell went away. The code hasn't come back yet either, so I am crossing my fingers that it was a super cheap fix and I don't have to do the charcoal canister.
 

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Cool, I assume you figured out that you test resistance between the pins. FYI modulator very rarely goes bad (I've never encountered a bad one).

For cleaning the EGR valve, tube, TB, and IAC, I recommend Purple Power; have not found anything that works as well to dissolve carbon. BTW make sure you take the exhaust tube off the head; if you pour cleaner in, it'll get into the head. At a minimum, it'll cause misfiring when you start it up. At worst, it'll crack the head.

Use OE only for the gas cap. Yeah, it's expensive but Toyota didn't start screwing up/cheaping out on gas caps until about 2001 (with the gen1 IS); the OE gas cap for our cars will last another 20 years.

Alright. Tested. Bad vsv. So I have a new one ordered. Also ordered the modulator and an egr valve gasket so I can clean it up. Just gonna do it all at once to know that it is handled. The modulator was cheap enough that it was worth it. Gonna remove the TB and clean it and the IAC up while I am at it.

As for the P0446....I put a new gas cap on today to see if that fixed it and the gas smell went away. The code hasn't come back yet either, so I am crossing my fingers that it was a super cheap fix and I don't have to do the charcoal canister.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Question for you guys. If the P0446 does come back and I do need the whole charcoal canister, is there a bad thing that would come from trying one from the junkyard? My local yard has a couple same year/model Camry's that are about half the milage of mine.

I know it isn't ideal, but I figured I could grab both of their canisters and see if either of them work. I can get the canister from those for only $9 each. Figured at such a low cost it would make sense. May not buy me the amount of time as a new one, but could get me a few years for hardly no money. Just didn't know if there was something that would make that a horrible idea. It is just a $9 gamble, and if it doesn't work I am not out much.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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... It is just a $9 gamble, and if it doesn't work I am not out much.
Sure, why not - if the condition of the canister(s) look good / there is no obvious hose degradation / all the connections still look intact, yes - I'd spend a few hours to save some $$$ .. That's one of the nice benefits of a FL vehicle - not worrying about rust.. like up here in NH.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Sure, why not - if the condition of the canister(s) look good / there is no obvious hose degradation / all the connections still look intact, yes - I'd spend a few hours to save some $$$ .. That's one of the nice benefits of a FL vehicle - not worrying about rust.. like up here in NH.
Thanks. That is what I figured.

So I just finished cleaning the ERG valve, throttle body, and IAC. I bought this car a couple months ago as a non-runner and did the timing and a whole host of other stuff to get her running, so I am not responsible for what I found.

HOLY CRAP.....I pulled off the throttle body first. It was the worst TB I have ever seen. The scab of buildup on the back of the flap had to be scraped, steel brushed, and used a just a ton of purple power and carb cleaner. Holy cow it was bad......the worst.

That is until I pulled off the ERG. The port into the intake wasn't big enough to put a pick through. Had to chip it away. The hose nipple was solid with buildup. Not even with a tiny metal pick could I go through it. Ended up giving it a soak in my carb bath. Still took a flexible metal wire to clean out that hose nipple. Sooooo bad.

Even scrubbed the intake while I had the TB off. I know it is better to remove, but no time today. I used a vac to suck out all the chunks I loosened and tried to suck out as much of the carb cleaner I could. Got it all back together nice and clean. Cleaned all the electrical connections. Made sure all the vac hoses were good. Took it about 3 minutes of cranking to start. The puff of smoke was insane, and now it is running beautifully. Obviously that was the main problem. I still have the new VSV coming in tomorrow, but I may return it if the code doesn't come back, because it is running great now. Idle is fixed and is humming.

Would you guys return the VSV or put it on even if it isn't bad at the moment? I bought the Dorman one. Has a ton of great reviews that it works well on the camry. But if I don't need them I figured send back the VSV and the modulator.
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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ISB and other TN folks wrench lots more vs. me, so with that said ...

I would check w/ the vendor or store first, - before opening the box - . If you open / damage / break -any- seal, you won't be able to return the part: that's pretty standard these days on any electrical part purchased.

Second, it's a Dorman part. Many folks "do not like the brand", because their parts are 'hit or miss' .. generally out of the box, or immediately (like the next day) after any warranty period expires. Me personally, I'm "meh" when it comes to Dorman brand. Any Dorman part purchased here: I do not expect to hold up / last for any great length of time. With above said: parts quality varies -widely-, based on the vehicle you are purchasing for, and exactly what type of part you are purchasing. Example: power steering lines, vehicle-specific parts that require OE spec / fitment "may" (read: usually will) or "may not" give you hours of frustration, anger, and bad language.. when trying to install said part, because the machining vs. OE is off "just enough" to drive the average DIY'er insane w/ frustration while attempting to install. ... ( Ask me how I know, sigh.)

So, I would not: accept the part if no chance of return, or open or otherwise unbox the part if return is possible, and if AutoZone, pay Credit/Debit Card only, no cash - else be prepared to "wait" for days (weeks) before the store has the available funds .. to refund you same.

Personally, I'd hit that pick-n'-pull and grab the VSV off one of those vehicles you mentioned, before installing (new) Dorman, but that's just me here.
 

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Dunno how much the Dorman cost, but it'll fail sooner rather than later, statistically. The OE equivalent is the Aisin VST-006, which runs about $40-50.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Bought them from Amazon, so the return is super easy. I am gonna return it when it gets in tomorrow.

Weird thing though. The P0446 code came back, so I hooked up the OBD reader with the car running, and noticed when I connect it, the temp gauge drops down to a little below the middle. Unplug it and it immediately goes back up above the middle. Did it a few times to make sure that was what was happening. Anyone ever had that happen?
 

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'00 4 Cyl. Auto Camry LE
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Weird.

Have you had the opportunity to clean primary ground points from the Neg. Battery terminal -> to the motor, and chassis yet ?

Are there any exterior lighting (bulb) issues currently?

Aftermarket Radio, or Toyota Factory? Any (Display) or other issues noted?

How about interior lighting ( Instrument cluster / Heater / A/C display / Trans shift / Cigarette Lighter / Glove Box / Overhead Dome lamp ) ?

Recommend inspecting all bulbs, replacing any that are "old" (blackened) w/ new. And inspecting bulb sockets / wiring immediate to the lamp socket for condition.

Also would pull / inspect the [10A] pass. cabin GAUGE fuse, and replace w/ new if at all suspect.

Above is where I would start, if here. ... Ensuring good (fuse) power, primary ground, and that no shorted bulbs are affecting voltage to the gauge cluster.
 

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"A little below the middle" is where the temp gauge needle normally sits here, when the motor is at operating temp., just FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Where are all the negative grounding points located? Exterior lights all work. Interior lights seem to be working except the glove box. I replaced the ac bulbs already because they were out. But other than that, they all seem good. I'll check the fuse and grounds next. It certainly sounds like a grounding issue. It could also mean that when I throw the OBD on it and it settles a little below half that the OBD is grounding it correctly and all my chasing of the tail has been because of a stupid grounding issue and I am super angry. Haha.
 

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Set the jiggle valve (on the thermostat) at 12 o'clock. If you are not sure what is the jiggle valve, google it. If you don't set at 12 o'clock, it will run hot on this car.
 

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re: Ground points - getting into service manual territory here, and TN rules are very strict about what can / cannot be posted. Best I can offer is to remove the lower drivers / pass. kick panels, look for any ground points attached by bolt to the chassis frame - and clean them up.

re: lights: the temp. sensor reports reading, based on resistance. Purpose of removing and physically inspecting -all- lighting is to check if any bulb issue is causing the high resistance in the circuit. You need to remove & inspect each bulb, including all in the instrument cluster.

re: this being the cause of all issues found .. Um, given what you've found so far, I'm gonna say "No." ... But that EGR mess you found - certainly could have contributed there.

Again, clean primary ground points, and if any green / white corrosion "fur" at the Battery Terminals is found - replace -both- battery terminals w/ new Toyota OE, as a primary diagnostic step. ... * FL weather is kind to sheet metal, but gives the electrical system a workout.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
I am gonna go through and clean up the two grounding straps on either side, and then go through all the bulbs and replace. I know the glove box needs replaced. When I got the car the AC control lights were out, replaced them, but only one is working. But the other was a weird bulb from the package so I don't think it is the unit itself. Also will go through and replace any fuse that needs it. If that doesn't work I may end up grabbing an OBD gauge. Honestly, but my reader connected to the OBD makes the gauge work perfectly, so maybe I just leave my reader plugged in and tuck it up under the dash. Haha.
 

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Sounds like a plan. Wiring typically does not "go bad", oxidation / corrosion @ ground points, fuse blades / terminals, improper rated fuses installed, -any- aftermarket items w/ a bad wiring install (cut/exposed/compromised wiring) and lighting.. as mentioned above - those are the "usual suspects" w/ high resistance. Taking an afternoon to check, clean & Q/A everything would be to your benefit. And no, don't keep the Code Reader hooked up, Murphy's Law states more codes will appear if you do that :)
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Looking over some old TN threads, I saw this one:


One of the comments on it was from a guy that hasn't posted on here in years, but he said this: "Had same problem a couple of years back, checked the thermostat and gauge, then when I ran an independant ground to it, everything returned to normal."

What would he be running the independent ground to? The temp sensor for the system is only a single wire. Not sure where the ground he would be talking about was.
 
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