Running wires through the firewall?

32069 Views 15 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Strega315, Jun 3, 2021

LynchburgCSI

Discussion Starter · Mar 31, 2009

As a few of you guys know, I'm working on installing a security/remote start system in my '96 LE 5S-FE. Of course, i'm going to need to run wires from the engine bay to the cabin of the car. I was looking around under the dashboard today trying to figure out where to put a hole or if there was an existing hole I could use. What's the best way to get wires through the firewall?

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

SexieWASD

· #2 · Mar 31, 2009

For large wires you should run a separate hole/grommet through the firewall, for smaller wires there is the main wire harness going through the left side of the dash that you can use.

Jimnist

· #3 · Mar 31, 2009

If there's space, you could try squeezing it along with the accelerator cable ( doubt it though). Other than that, i'd just suggest drilling a new one close to the accelerator, there's space around there.

bigbird

· #4 · Mar 31, 2009

best way is goin through the wheel well. youll have to take off teh drivers side wheel and well liner to get to it.

skuttduck

· #5 · Mar 31, 2009

bigbird said:
best way is goin through the wheel well. youll have to take off teh drivers side wheel and well liner to get to it.

This is what I had to do on my Gen 4 to run the wires from the fog lights. This was in the OEM instructions.

On the Gen 4 I didn't have to take off the wheel, just pulled back the fender liner (had to turn the wheels to get to the screws), and then ran all my cables next to the hood release.

eddie926

· #6 · Mar 31, 2009

bigbird said:
best way is goin through the wheel well. youll have to take off teh drivers side wheel and well liner to get to it.

+1

I just did this last night on my '95 LE.

The wheel well liner was easy to remove. Once it's out you can access the hole/boot that the hood release cable (and some other bundle) goes thru. There's plenty of room thru there to route a power cable, and there's an easy access opening from the engine bay to get down to the wheel well.

I used an ice pick to puncture a hole thru the boot from the wheel well side, then ran a long stiff wire back thru from inside the passenger compartment, taped my power cable to it and pulled it back thru. You have to punch thru both sides of the boot. Kind of like puncturing a rubber ball all the way thru.

You can find the location inside the passenger compartment by following the hood release cable up to where it goes thru the firewall.

Once you've got the wire into the passenger compartment, you can remove the plastic door sill covers, and the plastic panel that covers the drivers seat belt retractor, take out the back seat cushion and easily route the wire under the carpeting all the way back to the trunk.

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. I saw a thread the other day though where somebody had posted some good pictures of what I just described. I can't find it now though.

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LynchburgCSI

Discussion Starter · #7 · Mar 31, 2009

eddie926 said:
+1

I just did this last night on my '95 LE.

The wheel well liner was easy to remove. Once it's out you can access the hole/boot that the hood release cable (and some other bundle) goes thru. There's plenty of room thru there to route a power cable, and there's an easy access opening from the engine bay to get down to the wheel well.

I used an ice pick to puncture a hole thru the boot from the wheel well side, then ran a long stiff wire back thru from inside the passenger compartment, taped my power cable to it and pulled it back thru. You have to punch thru both sides of the boot. Kind of like puncturing a rubber ball all the way thru.

You can find the location inside the passenger compartment by following the hood release cable up to where it goes thru the firewall.

Once you've got the wire into the passenger compartment, you can remove the plastic door sill covers, and the plastic panel that covers the drivers seat belt retractor, take out the back seat cushion and easily route the wire under the carpeting all the way back to the trunk.

Sorry, I didn't take any pictures. I saw a thread the other day though where somebody had posted some good pictures of what I just described. I can't find it now though.

thanks so much! i should have remembered that from when I installed my CAI.

and running wires to the trunk has been done already. :thumbsup:
the heart of the system gets here tomorrow via UPS...so around 7pm EST. should be done by Friday night! :naughty:

JCamry94

· #8 · Mar 31, 2009

Do I see a DIY coming together? Takin pics of it?

I'm gonna need one eventually as I put more and more aftermarket crap in her :thumbsup:

ASG14

· #9 · Apr 1, 2009

I ran my Amp/Fog light wires though the wheel well, and I ran Bigbird's Foglight wires the same way.

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LynchburgCSI

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 1, 2009

JCamry94 said:
Do I see a DIY coming together? Takin pics of it?

I'm gonna need one eventually as I put more and more aftermarket crap in her :thumbsup:

of course! i said on another thread I was working towards a DIY. you dont go through an install like this and not do a DIY! :lol:

skuttduck

· #11 · Apr 2, 2009

LynchburgCSI said:
of course! i said on another thread I was working towards a DIY. you dont go through an install like this and not do a DIY! :lol:

If I can locate the foglight install instructions that came with my kit, I could try and PDF the pages that detail this for the Gen 4.

smurf3

· #12 · May 27, 2009

I Agree With The Wheel Well Idea. I Run My Amplifier Power cable from my battery through my wheel well abd to my amp. it is a 4 gauge wire and fits with ease. That is the best spot to run it through in my opinion. That is where my main wiring harness runs through so it is obviously a safe spot where there is no chance of the cable being cut or shorted by road debris or any thing of that matter.

projektvertx

· #13 · May 30, 2010

Muhahaha god I love the search function on this forum

I'll be needing this tommorow for my amplifier's 12V power source:lol: Thanks to ASG14 for the pic, and LynchburgCSI for making the title an obvious one among the hundreds of hits:thumbsup:

Strega315

· #14 · Jun 3, 2021 (Edited)

9

There is a perfect spot that is a clear shot just outboard of the Brake Booster in the engine compartment and goes to a wide open spot to the left of the brake pedal in the cabin. The plastic trim cutout just pulls out and you'll see the round area that is safe to drill out with a step bit from the inside. Plenty of clearance and is a straight shot to the driver's side door trim to conceal the wires going towards the rear of the vehicle.

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norm356

· #15 · Jun 3, 2021

Awesome solution!
But my Camry has a manual so that area was used by the clutch pedal.

I had to make my hole behind the splash guard like those other guys did (post #143~146, 152):

www.toyotanation.com

Gen3 Restoration Thread

I didn't start out intending to own a Camry for this long. But when I bought this 1993 Camry SE V6 (3VZ-FE) 5MT, in October of 1992, it seemed to be good enough for my needs. It handled like a pig when new, but finally I found a shop which specialized in race cars and they set up the alignment...

www.toyotanation.com

www.toyotanation.com

I did find a great grommet to use for it, which was nice (a heater valve grommet).

It is scary drilling a hole through your car, isn't it?

Reactions: 1

Strega315

· #16 · Jun 3, 2021

norm356 said:
Awesome solution!
But my Camry has a manual so that area was used by the clutch pedal.

I had to make my hole behind the splash guard like those other guys did (post #143~146, 152):

Gen3 Restoration Thread

I didn't start out intending to own a Camry for this long. But when I bought this 1993 Camry SE V6 (3VZ-FE) 5MT, in October of 1992, it seemed to be good enough for my needs. It handled like a pig when new, but finally I found a shop which specialized in race cars and they set up the alignment...

www.toyotanation.com

I did find a great grommet to use for it, which was nice (a heater valve grommet).

It is scary drilling a hole through your car, isn't it?

Yeah, I just did this this last weekend so I thought I’d provide a bit of information when the next guy comes looking! As I was drilling I was waiting to hear the brake boost implode!! Haha! Actually what I did is used a spring loaded center punch and looked where it was in the engine bay. Had to use my 90° Milwaukee to get all the way up in there. I figured this spot was for the clutch, but in all my years I’ve never actually seen a manual Camry. Go figure. I used the grommet from the other side of the engine bay that is situated just on the other side of the heater core. I taped that hole off until I go to the salvage yard next time and grab a replacement grommet. Gotta say I enjoy reading your posts here on TN. You sound very knowledgeable and give great advice. I’ve been turning wrenches since about 1970 and mostly just have fun tinkering and fixing anything that’s broken and not quite ready for the scrap heap! Keep up the good work and cya around the site!

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