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Discussion Starter #1
hello fellow eggmen.

i bought a 95 previa all trac with a rebuilt title and about 155555 miles on it. I had a guy who is a mechanic change the spark plugs, valve cover gasket, wires, cap, distributor, rotor, and o ring and replace an exhaust gasket so it no longer sounds like a harley. (now is sounds like a whistle).

My goal with this vehicle is to have a car that will take me camping and to the ski hills without a ton of $$ investment. And I'd like to do as much of the work as I can. My next project is replacing the bushings on the sad shaft.

My friend told me the polyurethane bushings are better than the aluminum ones with rubber grommets so I got ordered one from here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyo...tors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories#ht_812wt_958

I have heard that the job is relatively easy to do and I can see the parts that I will be replacing, I am hoping someone here can walk me through the steps to do this with the least amount of headache and lost skin. even better if you have pics but not neccesary.

Thanks for your help

BarStar (BS)
 

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I see you posted this back in august and was wondering how the sad shaft bushing replacement went?? I am going to have to do the same thing and think it may be a little more difficult than you had stated.
Did you complete it and if so do you have any pics or tips?

thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ya, I had the intention of doing it myself but ended up having my friend do it while he was doing something else. Sorry I can't be of more assistance. For what it is worth, the bushings seem to be holding up fine.
 

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Land Whales
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uh. yeah, its not detailed but i can probably give u a good write up on this one.



SAD REPLACEMENT - ( I did two of my vans last summer)

JACKSTANDS - DO IT ON THE FLOOR.

or ACTUAL HOIST. -

1) DISCONNECT BATTERY !!!!!!! ( HAHAHAHA )
2) REMOVE CABIN AIR INTAKE , AND REMOVE RAD FAN SHROUD (UPPER PORTION)
3) REMOVE COOLING FAN / CLUTCH FAN ASSEMBLY
4) REMOVE BOTTOM SPLASH GUARD
5) LOOSEN ALTERNATOR. A/C COMPRESSOR/ ETC. - REMOVE ALL DRIVE BELTS
6) REMOVE FRONT SADS PULLEY/HARMONIC BALANCER
7) REMOVE MOUNTING FOR THE FRONT ACCESSORY CARRIER ( WHERE THE ALTERNATOR/ COMPRESSOR. POWER STEERING PUMP SADS IS ATTACHED)
- ( TWO FRONT NUTS LEFT N RIGHT) AND SOME MOUNT/BOLTS AT THE BACK OF IT. ITS QUITE TRICKY, IF U NEED TO HEAT THE BOLTS/NUTS. DO IT. CUZ THEY WILL BREAK, WHEN THEY DO. ITS MORE OF A HEADACHE.
8) REMOVE SADS SHAFT FRONT BEARING BOLTS (3) .
9) REMOVE SADS BOLTS @ THE CRANK FRONT PART OF THE ENGINE (3 HEX INDENTED BOLTS)
10) U MIGHT NEED TO DISCONNECT THE A/C CONNECTION THAT'S BOLTED INTO THE A/C COMPRESSOR ( SO MIGHT HAVE TO PURGE THE A/C SYSTEM/ DRAIN IT WHATEVER ) OTHERWISE IT WOULD EXPLODE ON UR FACE WHEN U OPEN IT.
11) U NEED PIECE OF 2X4 OR SOMETHING TO SUPPORT THE ACCESORY CARRIER. CUZ U GONNA LIFT THAT SUCKER. U GONNA NEED A STRAP OR A SLING OR AN ACTUAL ENGINE HOIST. TO BE ABLE TO HAVE ENUFF CLEARANCE TO PULL THE WHOLE SADS OUT (YES WHOLE SADS)
12) U GONNA NEED TO PUSH THE SADS TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR, THEN PULL IT BACK OUT TOWARDS THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE.

THATS WHAT I HAD TO DO TO TAKE IT OUT.

and for 4WD
13) U NEED TO TAKE OUT THE FRONT DRIVE SHAFT TO GET CLEARANCE TO GET THE SADS SHAFT OUT. IF U CAN GET A 6 SIDED BOX WRENCH INSTEAD OF THE 12 POINT. USE IT. U CAN ROUND THESE DRIVESHAFT BOLTS EASY . AND IT WOULD BE A BITCH GETTIN THEM OUT.

14) HAVE A CUP OF COFFEE OR A NICE CHILLED BEER :chug:
15) DON'T DO THIS ALONE. I DID MINE ALONE AND ITS TOUGH. SPECIALLY WHEN IT COMES TO LIFTING THE ACCESSORY CARRIER -. EXTRA HAND IS DEFENITELY SUGGESTED.


THIS WOULD TAKE YOU ....3-5 HOURS - TRY NOT TO BREAK ANY BOLTS.

GET YOURSELF SOME MAP GAS TORCH TO HEAT THINGS UP.

ANYTHING ELSE JUST ASK. -
 

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sad shaft replacement

WOW Thanks a million!! I was curious if you had taken any pics when doing this and if you were replacing the whole sad shaft or just the bushings??

Also, you said it took 3-5 hours...was that total or just for disassemble?

I may possibly get to use a lift/garage...that should reduce the time considerably??

Thanks again:thumbsup:
 

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Land Whales
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i only replaced the bushing, replaced them with the poly-, 3-6 hours includes everything - in a normal day that is. hence everything works right, no broken bolts. no bleeding fist etc.

USE THREAD LOCKERS when installing the bushing kits. the bushing bolts tends to back out for some reason. uh....

yeah . i would post pics but

1) i'm too lazy
2) i'm not sure which site to upload the pics so i can link them here
3) i'm really lazy right now.
 

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you are the schizzz!!

Cool, yeah Im gona make sure to take a bunch of pics. Mainly of location of SADS and whats in the way of it.

When I first started this search on the internet. NOT one pic was available of the SAD shaft and any pic related to this subject mostly came from toyota forums. SO...I promise to make this experience to anyone inquiring less painful.

Im still amazed that most (if not all) of these toyota dealerships would not accommodate all of their loyal previa owners by just replacing the bushings (most common problem with the SADS) Instead, they would like to charge $2400 (quote given to me on 01/26/11) to replace the whole unit.

Hmm.. guess they'd rather make more money or convince you to buy a newer vehicle:confused:
 

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Thanks very much for all the info, specially to "awtomakina".I have a Previa Alltrac and am looking to do as much preventive maintenance as I can. Well, not "me", as I am not good enough to replace the bushings on the SAD. Will have to ask a mechanic.

Do any of you know a Toyota mechanic in Morris county, NJ?
 

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Diehard Rams Fan
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So what are the indicators that this needs to be replaced? :confused: My Previa seems to be running beautifully now that I've replaced the leaky distributor o-ring, cap, rotor, valve cover gasket, plugs & wires. :D
 

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SAD SHAFT Replacement Toyota Previa SC AWD

I wanted to throw my 2 cents in as there are a few different ways to approach the removal of the SAD Shaft.
I'm going to steal of bit of verbiage from a couple of the threads above to help my lack of writing skills.

SAD REPLACEMENT - ( my 1st SAD Shaft)

JACKSTANDS - DO IT ON THE FLOOR.

1) DISCONNECT BATTERY !!!!!!! ( I removed mine completely )
2) REMOVE CABIN AIR INTAKE , AND REMOVE RAD FAN SHROUD (UPPER PORTION and lower)
Ed: I also removed the radiator, nothing to it and it gives you so much more room. Also removed the coolant hoses.
Ed: I removed the Air Filter top and disconnected the MAF hose from the air box and this also gives you more room to pull the assembly over.
3) REMOVE COOLING FAN / CLUTCH FAN ASSEMBLY
4) REMOVE BOTTOM SPLASH GUARD, all 3 of them gives you much needed openness. Very easy. 12mm bolts
5) Ed: Loosen tightening pullings for all belts ALTERNATOR. A/C COMPRESSOR/ ETC. - REMOVE ALL DRIVE BELTS and replace if necessary.
6) REMOVE FRONT SADS bolts, I did not remove my SAD pulley, just unbolted from SAD Shaft that attaches to the pulley. My bolts were very tight and I needed to put a 12mm wrench behind the grommet carrier to get my attachment bolts to break lose. Otherwise the shaft would spin and I couldn't get a good pull on the bolt..
7) REMOVE 4 MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE FRONT ACCESSORY CARRIER ( WHERE THE ALTERNATOR/ COMPRESSOR. POWER STEERING PUMP SADS IS ATTACHED)
- ( TWO FRONT BOLTS LEFT N RIGHT. These 4 bolts hold the whole assembly. It will be free to lift up and forward after these 4 bolts are removed.
9) REMOVE SADS BOLTS @ THE CRANK FRONT PART OF THE ENGINE (3 HEX INDENTED BOLTS with the bar that runs across the rubber grommets )
11) U NEED A PIECE OF 2X4 OR SOMETHING TO SUPPORT THE ACCESORY CARRIER. CUZ U GONNA LIFT THAT SUCKER. U GONNA NEED A STRAP OR A SLING OR AN ACTUAL ENGINE HOIST. TO BE ABLE TO HAVE ENUFF CLEARANCE TO PULL THE WHOLE SADS OUT (YES WHOLE SADS) Ed: I used a 12" piece of 2x4, I set it from below next to the AC and with my floor jack I jacked it up and then strapped it and pulled the assembly forward attaching a strap to the bottom bumper where there was a fog light mount and the other end to the alternator.
12) U GONNA NEED TO PUSH THE SADS TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR, THEN PULL IT BACK OUT TOWARDS THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE. Ed: {R side as you're looking into the compartment}.
Ed: Once I had the assembly pulled up and forward, i was able to slide the shaft back toward the engine, wiggle over to the open area that is made from the assembly being out of the way...then you can either pull it out from the bottom or push it thru near where the battery would be sitting.

If you have 4WD
Ed: I did not have to touch the front axle, drop it or even consider it. I also did not have to remove the secondary assembly mount near the rear. Once you pull the assembly forward enough it give you a large opening and clearance to remove the shaft {having the radiator out helped with more room}
Ed: My rubber grommets in the SAD were so BAD they had melted to the shaft and it was hard to separate the 2 pieces. I'm really surprised this thing didn't fall out. I can tell you shook the van as if I was driving over the centerline that had those warning bumps that you're crossing over the center or outside edge of the road....it was horrendous ....
Toyota wants nearly $250 for the rebuild kit but I've heard its the only way to go.
I hope this helps someone out. The job isn't really hard, just a little time consuming. I had a few stuck bolts so I estimated it took me 4-5 hours to get my shaft out. I would think another 2-3 hours to get it all back together. If its your 1st time I would allow this amount of time. If I had to do it again I could probably stat and finish the job in 4 hours. {if all went to plan}
 

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SAD SHAFT Replacement Toyota Previa SC AWD

I wanted to throw my 2 cents in as there are a few different ways to approach the removal of the SAD Shaft.
I'm going to steal of bit of verbiage from a couple of the threads above to help my lack of writing skills.

SAD REPLACEMENT - ( my 1st SAD Shaft)

JACKSTANDS - DO IT ON THE FLOOR.

1) DISCONNECT BATTERY !!!!!!! ( I removed mine completely )
2) REMOVE CABIN AIR INTAKE , AND REMOVE RAD FAN SHROUD (UPPER PORTION and lower)
Ed: I also removed the radiator, nothing to it and it gives you so much more room. Also removed the coolant hoses.
Ed: I removed the Air Filter top and disconnected the MAF hose from the air box and this also gives you more room to pull the assembly over.
3) REMOVE COOLING FAN / CLUTCH FAN ASSEMBLY
4) REMOVE BOTTOM SPLASH GUARD, all 3 of them gives you much needed openness. Very easy. 12mm bolts
5) Ed: Loosen tightening pullings for all belts ALTERNATOR. A/C COMPRESSOR/ ETC. - REMOVE ALL DRIVE BELTS and replace if necessary.
Ed: I did not have to remove the Harmonic balancer or pulley, Just unbolted my shaft. My bolts were very tight and I needed to put a 12mm wrench behind the Harmonic Balancer to get my attachment bolts to break lose. Otherwise the shaft would spin and I couldn't get a good pull on the bolt..
7) REMOVE 4 MOUNTING BOLTS FOR THE FRONT ACCESSORY CARRIER ( WHERE THE ALTERNATOR/ COMPRESSOR. POWER STEERING PUMP SADS IS ATTACHED)
- ( TWO FRONT NUTS LEFT N RIGHT. These 4 bolts hold the whole assembly. It will be free to lift up and forward after these 4 bolts are removed.
9) REMOVE SADS BOLTS @ THE CRANK FRONT PART OF THE ENGINE (3 HEX INDENTED BOLTS with the bar that runs across the rubber grommets )
11) U NEED A PIECE OF 2X4 OR SOMETHING TO SUPPORT THE ACCESORY CARRIER. CUZ U GONNA LIFT THAT SUCKER. U GONNA NEED A STRAP OR A SLING OR AN ACTUAL ENGINE HOIST. TO BE ABLE TO HAVE ENUFF CLEARANCE TO PULL THE WHOLE SADS OUT (YES WHOLE SADS) Ed: I used a 12" piece of 2x4, I set it from below next to the AC and with my floor jack I jacked it up and then strapped it and pulled the assembly forward attaching a strap to the bottom bumper where there was a fog light mount and the other end to the alternator.
12) U GONNA NEED TO PUSH THE SADS TOWARDS THE FRONT OF THE CAR, THEN PULL IT BACK OUT TOWARDS THE LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE. Ed: {R side as you're looking into the compartment}.
Ed: Once I had the assembly pulled up and forward, i was able to slide the shaft back toward the engine, wiggle over to the open area that is made from the assembly being out of the way...then you can either pull it out from the bottom or push it thru near where the battery would be sitting.

If you have 4WD
Ed: I did not have to touch the front axle, drop it or even consider it. I also did not have to remove the secondary assembly mount near the rear. Once you pull the assembly forward enough it give you a large opening and clearance to remove the shaft {having the radiator out helped with more room}
Ed: My rubber grommets in the SAD were so BAD they had melted to the shaft and it was hard to separate the 2 pieces. I'm really surprised this thing didn't fall out. I can tell you shook the van as if I was driving over the centerline that had those warning bumps that you're crossing over the center or outside edge of the road....it was horrendous ....
Toyota wants nearly $250 for the rebuild kit but I've heard its the only way to go.
I hope this helps someone out. The job isn't really hard, just a little time consuming. I had a few stuck bolts so I estimated it took me 4-5 hours to get my shaft out. I would think another 2-3 hours to get it all back together. If its your 1st time I would allow this amount of time. If I had to do it again I could probably stat and finish the job in 4 hours. {if all went to plan}
 

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Started the BMW SADS conversion on our 94 SC All-Trac yesterday. We lowered the Front Differential by removing the (2) bolts on the passenger side front mount - it lowers the differential just a couple inches to open up the SADS space. It took a lot of time to discover a workable height / angle on the accessory assembly to get the SADS to come through - it was getting caught on either the power steering 'linkage tube' near the axle or catching one of the 'flanges' by the drive pulley bearing. The BMW couplers are smaller diameter but 2mm thicker each - crossing my fingers this goes back in easier than it came out.

Will replace the oil seal & o-ring behind the harmonic balancer while we have the SADS out. Also taking my front driveshaft to a local driveline service to have the (3) u-joints and center bearing replaced - the (2) u-joints at the ends are "not smooth" any longer.
 

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97 Previa DX AWD; 97 4Runner 5 spd
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When I took mine in a couple weeks ago they were able to replace the broken bolts without moving or removing anything else. It wasn't easy, but they did it in an hour and a half. Of course they had a lift
 
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