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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I used the OEM adjustable tie downs and mounted a pair of Yakima cross bars with a Coleman safari roof rack on the bars. The tie downs are still adjustable.
Left room to carry 2 NATO fuel cans & my Co2 tank up against the back wall behind the wood.










:clap:
 

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Looks good! :thumbup:

Instead of using the Toyota cross bars I am making a set of cross bars out of SuperStrut. Works like a charm and mounts into the rails just like the tie downs (leaving them free for other things). Materials so far is less than $25. I will post pics when I finish them up.
 

· Stupid is stupid does
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the text in your pics is unreadable ;) But Im sure you know that too. How much did that rack set you back? I have been looking on Ebay from time to time. I dont want to fork over 300+$ for the yakima.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the text in your pics is unreadable ;) But Im sure you know that too. How much did that rack set you back? I have been looking on Ebay from time to time. I dont want to fork over 300+$ for the yakima.
$60.00 like the post above said, the Yakima parts I had from years of working in ski shops, hording spare parts. I think they are still sold by Yakima, they look like the tops off of a 1A tower, it mounts to a flat surface.
 

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I made a similar bar out of some 2x2 square tube and then welded tabs on each end. On the bottom of the tabs i welded some bolts to slide into the holes on those tie downs. I then drilled some holes through the tubing and threw my highlift on top. Works pretty good. Also keeps my quad from breaking my back window. Although technically you should strap it down well enough so that it wouldn't, and I do. It's just there in case. :D

It's pretty ghetto though so I only take it on trips.
 

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Looks good! :thumbup:

Instead of using the Toyota cross bars I am making a set of cross bars out of SuperStrut. Works like a charm and mounts into the rails just like the tie downs (leaving them free for other things). Materials so far is less than $25. I will post pics when I finish them up.
Could you go into more detail about what u are using to mount the cross bars?
Thanks.
 

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Kai38, what size bolts did you use through the cleats? 3/16", 1/4"? Looks good man and you have given us all ideas on how to mount this thing. I plan on using simple water pipe to run across the bed and mount the basket to that. A couple of Ubolts would hold the pipe to the cleat plate. I have a tool box back there so I will have to mount sideways but I don't think that'll matter much. And if I get adventurous I may come up with some sort of hinging system to allow access to the tool box. But in the mean time the basket should slide back on the rails and clean off with the rail stops removed.

Thanks for sharing! PS. with the tool box there and the basket covering the rest of the bed, a Pop & Lock handle would keep hands off of the stuff in the bed under thebasket too!
 

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Does someone know what the weight limit on that would be?
My guess is 4 times the rated amount on the cleats but would the whole thing be less or more??? (what if you added more cleats?)
 

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Does someone know what the weight limit on that would be?
My guess is 4 times the rated amount on the cleats but would the whole thing be less or more??? (what if you added more cleats?)
they said 50#'s on TTORA forums.


Would anyone with a cosco buy one and have it shipped to me? I can paypal you and throw in some OEM floor mats (tan) Or some TRD off road coils. PM me if your intrested.
 

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Does someone know what the weight limit on that would be?
My guess is 4 times the rated amount on the cleats but would the whole thing be less or more??? (what if you added more cleats?)
When I was thinking about buying them, my local dealership looked them up and they are rated for 120# across BOTH bars. The bed rails on the truck are, according to the dealership, rated for 440#.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Kai38, what size bolts did you use through the cleats? 3/16", 1/4"? Looks good man and you have given us all ideas on how to mount this thing. I plan on using simple water pipe to run across the bed and mount the basket to that. A couple of Ubolts would hold the pipe to the cleat plate. I have a tool box back there so I will have to mount sideways but I don't think that'll matter much. And if I get adventurous I may come up with some sort of hinging system to allow access to the tool box. But in the mean time the basket should slide back on the rails and clean off with the rail stops removed.

Thanks for sharing! PS. with the tool box there and the basket covering the rest of the bed, a Pop & Lock handle would keep hands off of the stuff in the bed under thebasket too!
I used 1/4 x 3in bolts, 1/2 plastic spacers, some flat stock metal cut to 5.75 in, washers under the head of the bolt,between the spacers & the OEM tie down, washer under the tie down, lock washer & nut.
I think I'm going to pick up another pair of tie downs for a 3rd cross bar to mount my roof top tent to the back of the bed.
If you use u-bolts you might need to use taller spacers so you can still turn the locking part of the tie down.
 

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Would anyone with a cosco buy one and have it shipped to me? I can paypal you and throw in some OEM floor mats (tan) Or some TRD off road coils. PM me if your intrested.

if you dont have costco membership, they will charge you additional 10% and ship it to you.
 

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Would anyone with a cosco buy one and have it shipped to me? I can paypal you and throw in some OEM floor mats (tan) Or some TRD off road coils. PM me if your intrested.

if you dont have costco membership, they will charge you additional 10% and ship it to you.
thanks :thumbup:
 

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Instead of using the Toyota cross bars I am making a set of cross bars out of SuperStrut. Works like a charm and mounts into the rails just like the tie downs (leaving them free for other things). Materials so far is less than $25. I will post pics when I finish them up.
As promised here is what I am doing for crossbars.

Materials required:

8 - 3/8 x 1" bolts
8 - 3/8" cut washers
4 - SuperStrut angles
2 pks 3/8" SuperStrut Spring Nuts
1 - 10' length of 1/2" SuperStrut

For those that are unfamiliar with SuperStrut, it is a product used primarily by electricians for making wire runs and chases. It is quite strong and it all galvanized. I used the 1/2" but it also comes in a thicker version that is is beefier yet.

1. I order for the spring nuts to fit in the 1/2" and in the bard rails of the truck, the springs need to be removed. You can break them off with some effort or just cut them off with sidecutters. The angles have one leg longer than the other. I used the long side to attach to the bed rails to set the bar a little higher. There is front and back to the nuts. The bolts go into the side away from the spring. The angles are also predrilled for 1/2" bolts, thus the washers.



2. Pre-assemble the angle with the bolt, washer and spring nut loosely. Remove the trim clip at the back of the bed rail and slide your angle on with the spring nut sliding into the bed rail.



3. Repeat the process on the other side. Then insert the bolt, washer and spring nut (again loosely) through the top holes of the angles.



4. Next cut a piece of SuperStrut to approximately 57 3/4" length. You could make it a bit longer if you wanted it to extend to the sides more, but you want to make your cuts in the middle of two holes. The next step takes a little wiggling around. Slide one end of the strut onto the angle, with the spring nut inside the strut, then move it past a little ways and bring it back onto the other side. Center it up, tighten it all down and you are done. Note: Do not overtighten it on the parts in the bed rail or your could mash in the rail edges.



Since all the parts are galvanized, rust is not a real issue. However, for looks I am going to prime and paint them black. I have not got the Safari Rack yet so I am not sure how exactly it will mount to these cross bars, but these are going to be much stronger than the OEM cross bars.
 
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