[keep_hope_alive]

You can gain access to all of the same info that the dealer has by paying for a short (or long) term subscription to

https://techinfo.toyota.com

A 2-day subscription lets you save as much info as you can find by printing to a PDF. The site is a bit cumbersome but you can figure it out in an hour or so. You can see schematics, harness information, even harness pin part numbers. You can also do any amount of repair desired with similar access as the dealer has. The schematics are in one piece online but print out on multiple pages.

I've gathered as much audio info as I needed for my 2019 SE (and some extra) to identify the wiring harnesses and wiring colors for the base and premium head units. There are also location maps of the interior harnesses for my SE and the harness pinout numbering is at the end of each head unit file. Note that the XLE and XSE will have some variances and I didn't try to find all of the info for those vehicles since it's based on the VIN.

I'm sharing the files in my onedrive account here:

2019 Camry

Folder

1drv.ms

Enjoy.

Sadly, Toyota doesn't make deciphering the harnesses as easy as the techinfo.honda website does.

If you have any questions about snagging the factory signal and adding aftermarket equipment, feel free to ask. I will be re-pinning the door molex plug to increase the factory door speaker wiring size (smaller than 18ga stock) along with upgrading drivers. I've 3D printed dash speaker adapters, ran power wire through the factory grommet with factory wiring, and will have a JL VX1000/5i under the driver's seat of an SE shortly. The BT signal is injected into the right front speaker wiring at the telematics receiver, this appears to occur after the head unit output. That means snagging the audio signal at the HU may neglect the phone audio, only for it to be mixed in later. I'd like to bring that into the VXi separately so I can control the mix myself and will experiment in the coming weeks. I plan on re-pinning the harnesses to snag signals instead of cutting any factory wiring.

Cheers

 

[jdsmn21]

*removed - duplicate post

 

[jdsmn21]

Hey - thanks for sharing!
You really caught my eye when you talked about repinning the harnesses. Is that something you've done before? I have "depinned", meaning removing unneeded wires from a harness, but never crimped any pins on a new wire before and stuck back into the harness. Interested in how you do that.

I just want to add an amp for a single 10" in my base SE. I have experience installing stereos/amps, and actually have done my own remote start in the past - but this car, being my first new car with a warranty - scares me, with the aluminum wiring and all...

Ultimately, I'm looking for the best way to splice into the front speaker wire for LOC connections, and the best place to enter the firewall.

Any pics, tutorials, etc of your process would be greatly appreciated by many on this forum!

 

[keep_hope_alive]

Hey - thanks for sharing!
You really caught my eye when you talked about repinning the harnesses. Is that something you've done before? I have "depinned", meaning removing unneeded wires from a harness, but never crimped any pins on a new wire before and stuck back into the harness. Interested in how you do that.

I just want to add an amp for a single 10" in my base SE. I have experience installing stereos/amps, and actually have done my own remote start in the past - but this car, being my first new car with a warranty - scares me, with the aluminum wiring and all...

Ultimately, I'm looking for the best way to splice into the front speaker wire for LOC connections, and the best place to enter the firewall.

Any pics, tutorials, etc of your process would be greatly appreciated by many on this forum!

I just posted a firewall routing thread:

Running wire through the firewall

If you're wondering how to run wiring through the firewall, and have it look like it was installed by the factory, then you've come to the right thread. There are two factory grommets that pass through the firewall. One on the passenger side and one on the driver's side. To access them, you...

www.toyotanation.com

The best place to intercept the audio signal is at the front dash speakers. You could snag the signal at the head unit if desired, the speaker wire harness looks like this:

And the dash speaker wire harness has an input and an output to the door speakers and looks like this:

The dash speaker wiring in the schematic is misleading as it shows the telematics receiver connecting near the dash speakers (shown in boxes with an inline capacitor) but the tap is elsewhere - this is to show the two types of systems (with and without manual SOS). For my SE the signal routes through the telematics receiver, not in parallel).

Where you tap matters because if you tap at the head unit you won't have the phone audio in the signal and if you tap at the dash speaker you will have the phone audio. Makes sense to not have phone audio through the sub.

 

[jdsmn21]

I'm not too worried about that telematics receiver - that's the overhead SOS (ie: like Onstar) function, that I haven't and will never use. Phone audio is a function of the radio - no getting around that as far as signal goes. Running a phone signal through a sub shouldn't be the end of the world either - I'm going for a modest SQ sub setup - talking to Barry white with 4 15"s might be a different story though!

Reading other walkthough, it seems like pulling the radio is the easiest way to go to tap into a signal.

Thank you for sharing the pics - that is a ton of help!