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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2012 Corolla S I purchased recently. Mechanically and physically in superb condition with the exception of one issue. The security light (immobilizer light) blinks constantly even with the vehicle running... regardless of which key I use. The light does not blink at all when the car is off FYI. I have done a lot of research on the internet... some articles have stated it is still stuck in programming mode but none of the procedures suggested actually fix the blinking security light issue. I took it to a lock smith but he was afraid if he reprogrammed it that it might not start anymore since he had never seen that issue. Is there anyone who has a concrete solution to this other than taking the car to the dealership. I refuse to pay a dealership 2 grand to fix the issue and frankly I do 100% of my car work anyways. Any suggestions as to why the car is doing this?
 

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Did you purchase this Corolla privately?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I did purchase it privately. The guy I purchased it from bought it out of an auction. The car was stolen in 2018... Recovered in Nov 2018 by Texas DPS and auctioned in a public auction to the dealer. I purchased it about 3 weeks ago from him. Title is clear and transferred. No telling what the issue though with security light... It likely was related to the theft in the vehicles past
 

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Give this a try. The producer states it's used to both program and reset the ECU.


Should be around 30 mins.

Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm afraid to do that... the locksmith was afraid the car wouldn't start if he reprogrammed the ECU specifically because he had not seen that issue before with my car.
 

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That's understandable. Then, a trip to the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Perhaps but unlikely knowing me. I'm not shelling out over 2 grand at the dealer because their solution will be a new ECU and rekey at close to 2 grand. I'd sooner light the car up and collect the insurance before I'll shell out 2 grand to the desaler. Sigh my 2003 RAV4 with 235k has zero issues... and just works... i'm kind of regretting purchasing this newer 2012 Corolla ... I've done a lot fixing it up already on my own at low cost. New Spark plugs, oil and oil filter, transmission fluid and filter, new side mirror replacement, aux in repair, repaired the speaker wire, repainted the switch plate bezels, new clips for the door and ceiling moon roof control panel... new rear view mirror... tint removal, new tires, front break pads and rear adjustment, new lug nuts. I've essentially restored the car to near perfect factory condition with the exception of the security light issue... Car is probably worth more now than what I bought it for because so much was fixed. maybe I should just sell it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #8
oh and did I tell you I found a GPS tracker attached and plugged into the vehicle diagnostic port... yea I removed that as well... maybe that thing messed up the ECU... who knows...
 

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I have a feeling, that they half completed the programming.

The worst is, 40 mins lost if it doesn't clear the security fault.

Maybe something is disconnected under the dash. Or the module went missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well the immobilizer works because I had blank key made with no chip in it to test it. The ignition turns but the car does not crank. Sooo...I guessss I could try the ECU reset to see if it clears the security fault. Hmmmmm... I'll have to try it tomorrow evening when I get off work. I need to look under the steering column to make sure every is hooked up as well.
 

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This will only work with the transponder chip key. The blank can't be verified by the transponder ECU/amplifier to turn the ignition.

On my 9th gen, I also have a transponder key. The transponder key needs to be in the ignition when the pins in the ECU are jumped.

When I swapped ecus, the matrix ECU didn't register with my key. It was because the ECU was for a 2003-2004 matrix. I then put the original ECU back, and the key couldn't be seen. I had to jump the pins so that the ECU saw the key id.

All it will do is work or not. The ECU will either be reset and the security light turns off or no change.

The dealer can use techstream to program the transponder id into the ECU. That's provided this doesn't work.
 

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If the car is running fine... could you either remove the security light power wire so it doesnt blink, or simply cover it up? I know its not as good a solution as fixing it, BUT if the car is running fine and has no issues due to the security 'system', why not just workaround and keep going?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I tried the ECU reset with the original key. The car went through the process and turn on with the key but the security light still blinks when the car is running. So... any other thoughts besides the dealership lol?
 
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