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So I just went to go back to work from my lunch break and my car is dead out of the blue, was working fine 20 minutes ago, battery wise anyway. I've been having issues fueling up my car where first the gauge stopped working and now the filler neck keeps backing up with fuel. I'm just wondering if these are all related to one another
 

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I plan on it, on the phone with toyota now trying to figure out fueling issue as well
 

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I've heard it might be the evap system but I'm not throwing the che k engine code
 

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Batteries can fail suddenly with no external corrosion due to heat and vibration over time. This tends to happen more in the summer time, because a battery case and internal cell dividers are made out of plastic, and they get weaker when hot (from high ambient temperatures and engine heat). Also, sometimes people tighten the battery hold down bar with too much pressure against the battery case, which stresses the battery case over time and causes battery structural problems in the heat.

I don't know about your fuel issues, but one should never top off your tank at the gas station. Always stop fueling as soon as the auto shut-off nozzle stops pumping gas. If it was tipped off, it could have caused permanent damage.
 

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I plan on it, on the phone with toyota now trying to figure out fueling issue as well
As far as you have gas in tank, that is not the cause. EVAP will not disable vehicle, it will only toss CEL on and, at worst, cause power train underperformance. Especially for your years, cars were not that "smart" then.
You have simple mechanical failure. Either battery(or around it) or ignition lock or fuse. Used to be main relay but, I doubt they have those still in your years. Honda and Toyota had major issue with main relays and rid of them in late 90s.
 

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So I just went to go back to work from my lunch break and my car is dead out of the blue, was working fine 20 minutes ago, battery wise anyway. I've been having issues fueling up my car where first the gauge stopped working and now the filler neck keeps backing up with fuel. I'm just wondering if these are all related to one another
Fueling issues you may need a new fuel pump
Starting issues from recharge your battery to change your alternator, pics and more specific details will help more.
D o not judge the brand for one bad experience, I bought a Camry my first "Toyota", I had plenty of Lexus before, I almost got T Bone with a dump truck and that car give me multiple failures, my trade was my Corolla which still strong at 178K since new
 

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If you have a battery charger and multimeter, measure the battery from both posts.

If you get under 10v, throw it on a charger or take it to a parts store to get battery tested.

How old is your battery?
 

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If you're not even getting a click, it's probably not the battery. Typically when the battery is dead, but nothing else is wrong, you'll get a rapid-fire series of clicks.

Could be the alternator or the starter. Bang on the side of the starter with a wrench or something. If the car starts up after that, then you know it's the starter and you need a new one.

Test the battery with a voltage meter, multimeter or battery tester to see if it's any good. If it's neither the starter nor the battery, then you know it's the alternator.

I doubt this is connected to the other issue, but if it was something like the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator, you could probably get the car started by standing on the gas a little bit while you try to crank it.
 

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If you're not even getting a click, it's probably not the battery. Typically when the battery is dead, but nothing else is wrong, you'll get a rapid-fire series of clicks.
<snip>
I might be mistaken, but isn't it the other way around? 🤔

No clicks or nothing = likely a battery problem.

Clicking sounds present = likely a starter problem

Anyway, best way to know for sure is to hook up the battery to voltmeter or multimeter.
 

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I might be mistaken, but isn't it the other way around? 🤔

No clicks or nothing = likely a battery problem.

Clicking sounds present = likely a starter problem

Anyway, best way to know for sure is to hook up the battery to voltmeter or multimeter.
Fast clicking is almost always a battery problem. Three times with our Toyotas (a Corolla, a RAV4 and a Scion XA) I've had to replace batteries and all three times it gave me the fast clicking.

The one time it was the alternator it would give the "chugga chugga" sound like it was about to start but the engine wouldn't turn over.

I go to this guy who specializes in car electrical stuff and he knows everything. This guy can rebuild and reinstall an alternator in an hour's time. He told me, at least with Toyotas, that the fast clicks 99% of the time means its the battery that's bad, slow clicks/no clicks/chuggas mean the alternator is bad, and almost never will the starter go bad.
 

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" sounds " depend on whats wrong with the battery. A simple weak or dead battery may give you one sound and can be jump started. If battery has internal short you probably get nothing, can't even be jump started.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 

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Easiest thing you can do is just jump start the vehicle and see what happens before moving to the next component.

My battery symptoms when my OEM battery finally started dying was that the the car would start veeerrryyy sloooooowwwwly. It would crank the but the crank was super slow, I never got a click and everything in the car worked like normal (I guess you can blame LED's for being efficient making it hard for the lights to dim). I was thinking it had to be something else other than the battery but I figured it had to be the battery so on the day after work that the car started very slowly immediately I went to O'Reilly's for a new battery... turned out the battery had reversed battery posts and the store closed but I was able to swap the batteries again and went to another O'Reilly's for the correct battery and my car started liked normal. So just jump the battery and see what happens.
 

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Years ago I had a chevy van that if I had a 3 year battery in it 2 years 11 months and 29 days the battery would go belly up. I could start it up a home, no issues at all, no slow start no nothing, drive it for awhile shut it off to run into store, come back out and nothing, no slow rollover, no clicks, no nothing, couldn't even jump start it. Drop in a new battery and was good for another 2 years 11 months and 29 days.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 

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Years ago I had a chevy van that if I had a 3 year battery in it 2 years 11 months and 29 days the battery would go belly up. I could start it up a home, no issues at all, no slow start no nothing, drive it for awhile shut it off to run into store, come back out and nothing, no slow rollover, no clicks, no nothing, couldn't even jump start it. Drop in a new battery and was good for another 2 years 11 months and 29 days.

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
Hilarious! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:
 
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