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V8'sRGone
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Debadging the "toy"....

FYI: Production date is 04/95 V6 LE and the trunk lid is full of holes!
The floss takes em off, a fresh razor for the double sided adhesive, and some "RainX" to get the sticky stuff off. Then some "SafeCut" Scratch N/poilsh stuff to make it all shinny and nice.
But everything has holes under the tape, the "Toyota", toyo emblem, "Camry", and "V6 LE" emblems. I guess a quick fix is to fill them with epoxy (no run) with a dab car color mixed in, then touch up the surface when its done curing....

The good news, I may have found my water leak as this was a Gold edition and most of the holes were not covered by tape. So any water over the deck lid would go inside.

If you all have any better ideas on hole filling and color matching - please chime in!

At this point I have NO Desire to sand, fill, primer, paint, and clear coat the backend.

Thanks for any input....

/ra
 

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Any pics? I got a couple of decals from my previous owner which I would love to get rid off.

73sport said:
Debadging the "toy"....

FYI: Production date is 04/95 V6 LE and the trunk lid is full of holes!
The floss takes em off, a fresh razor for the double sided adhesive, and some "RainX" to get the sticky stuff off. Then some "SafeCut" Scratch N/poilsh stuff to make it all shinny and nice.
But everything has holes under the tape, the "Toyota", toyo emblem, "Camry", and "V6 LE" emblems. I guess a quick fix is to fill them with epoxy (no run) with a dab car color mixed in, then touch up the surface when its done curing....

The good news, I may have found my water leak as this was a Gold edition and most of the holes were not covered by tape. So any water over the deck lid would go inside.

If you all have any better ideas on hole filling and color matching - please chime in!

At this point I have NO Desire to sand, fill, primer, paint, and clear coat the backend.

Thanks for any input....

/ra
 

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What color is it? If it's white or Cashmere Beige you can buy duplicolor touch up paint to paint it.

I saw that you said you're not interested in the work, but it will eat at you to do it right. I recommend doing a full sand, prime, paint clearcoat process versus what some people do, which is to just spray duplicolor over the old paint, DON'T do that, its a waste of your time and it only looks good from a distance.

NOTE - It will come out much better if you do the full process. It's not that hard, and I post this tutorial every so often to tell about touch uping. Here it is in all of it's non-picture containing glory!

-=Procedure=-

Step 1
Sanding off the old crap paint and surrounding area with 180 grit at first to get the paint off.

Step 2
Sand with 320 grit to get a finer edge to the paint.

Step 3
Sand with 600 grit to get the edge of where the bare surface is to be flush with the old paint.

Step 4
Clean any scratches up with 800 grit then proceed to spot putty if necessary. (assuming there is no actual damage, as mine just had bad paint)

Step 5
Prime with primer. Wait a day or so. The paint has to fully dry.

Step 6
Sand the primer with 800 grit until its nice and smooth.

Step 7
Prime it again, then wait yet another day for it to cure.

Step 8
Sand with 800 grit to get the spot nice and smooth. Then sand it again with the 1500 grit till its very very smooth.

Step 9
Shake the heck out of your can of touch up paint for a good 2 minutes. This is to make sure that you get a nice even flow of the metallic paint flakes.

Step 10
Paint at an acceptable distance at a temp of about 72 - 80ºF. Paint evenly and feather it in with the old paint. Let it dry for a day. Don't sand it.

Step 11
Do the same as in Step 10, and let that dry for at least 36 hours. When its dry and cured, sand it very lightly and not very long with the 2000 grit paper. If you sand it too much, the metallic part won't be even. Or worse yet, you'll get down to just the flakes and have it look silver.

Step 12
Make sure its nice out and not too humid. Shake the crap out of your can of clearcoat for a minute or two. Make sure the nozzle's clean and then spray it evenly with the can level over the top of the basecoat. Feather that even farther out than you did with the basecoat.

Step 13
Wait a day or two and then sand with the 2000 grit paper. Do it very lightly and briefly. It's only to make the final coat adhere that much better.

Step 14
Paint it with the clear coat again. Wait a day or two, then wet sand (sanding while making sure the paper is always wet) with 2000 grit paper. Sand until the clearcoat has a dull finish, but is very smooth to the touch.


Step 15
Wet sand with the 2500 grit paper a little while, remembering not to do it to much and eat through the clear coat.

Step 16
Wash the area with water. Get a buffer, not an orbital grinder, but a $30 buffer easily obtained at Meijer's or Wal-Mart. Put the Turtle Wax Buffing Compound on the buffing pad. Make sure to keep the buffing pad wet at all time, otherwise it can be too rough on the finish.

Step 17
Buff for a good minute for each square foot of painted area. Then remove the pad, wash the rubbing compount off of that and the car.

Step 18
If you did it right, the paint should be scratch free and smooth. Now you use the polishing compound the same way.

Step 19
Wash the polishing compound off.

Step 20
Hand wax the area with a wet rag and Turtle Wax Platinum Series Ultra Gloss Liquid or Paste Wax. Remove with a dry towel. Now your finish will shine like new.
It sounds like a lot of work, but for the most part, you're just waiting for paint to cure or bondo to dry. There are ways to cut steps out of the process, but I found this is the way I have been taught, and it seems the best way, how to get a factory shine out of touch up paint.
I have been complemented countless times for the paint job I did on my Triumph. I spent about $150 to paint the whole car, but I used a spray gun. All the steps still apply, but you have to use a gun instead of a can and that's about it.

-=Parts=-

-Cheap Regular Gray Primer @ 1.19 a 12oz. can
-Duplicolor Cashmere Beige Touch Up Paint @ 4.49 a 5oz. can
-Duplicolor Clear Top Coat Clearcoat @ 5.49 a 12oz. can
-3M Sandpaper in the following grades:
---180 Grit for sanding bondo.
---320 Grit for sanding bondo and sanding glazing and spot putty
---600 Grit for sanding before primer
---800 Grit for the sanding of primer
---1500 Grit for sanding before basecoat
---2000 Grit for sanding between base coats, but I don't sand the final coat
---2500 Grit for sanding the clearcoat.
-Turtle Wax Products:
---Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound for buffing out the clear coat scratches.
---Polishing Compound for good measure
---Turtle Wax Platinum Series High Gloss Liquid Wax for that showroom shine.​

Good Luck,
GT6
 

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V8'sRGone
Yoda's See Sig
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice Write Up

Hey thanks,
I am knowlegable of how to do it right, the problem is time and resources and in this case, the car has all of its original parts, original paint, clear coat is good and it is virtually dent free for an 11 year old car. So I simply don't want to go to all that work. Honestly I am not the perfectionest I once was. If I did decide to do it, it wouldn't be from a rattle can, but that is great option for many.

Here is pic of the V8 beast I painted with Sikens base coat/clear coat nearly 18 years ago. I have had it since 1984, Iron was made in 73 w/351C (5.8L), 4 Spd, Posi....
Yes, after all this time the clear coat is lifting but the sides still have a mirror finish!

/randy

Here are a few more things I have painted, the truck was a complete color change in 99. The Ranchero, paint was done ~1986! Yes, these rides are older than most of the folks here. Ranchero is 1972.
http://home.earthlink.net/~armadillo0/_code/allimages.htm


 

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How hard can it be?
2006 Pontiac G6 GT
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2,614 Posts
You should take your emblems off and repaint them black pearl, so that they stick out more. I plan on doing that once old man winter leaves us. (And a few other things :) )
 
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