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Discussion Starter #1
I have flushed the fluid twice and replaced the filter. My 03 Solara with the A541e transmission (v6 SLE motor) will not shift out of first gear until I rev to 3k and then let off the pedal. It shifts smoothly from then on. But if Icome to a stop it happens again. Doea anyone have any suggestions? I used Dexron III.
 

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Is it a harsh shift from 1>2 @ 3K and ever other shift from 2>3 and 3>4 is smooth?
I would re-check fluid level for ATF while the car is running on even ground (check fluid once going into each gear and then park). I've had incorrect fluid level give some weird shifting in the past.
 

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I just went through this. My trans would hang all the way to over 4k to shift if I would let it, but if I lifted on the throttle it would shift. Now my trans did this in every gear until about 20 minutes of driving. After that it would start to shift on its own. Also, at times it would do this after getting groceries, again, after driving for a while, it would shift normally.

About lost my mind trying to figure it out. I first looked at the temp sending unit, and replaced it with an OEM part, and........nothing changed.

I changed out the torque convertor, checked all of my shift solenoids [tested them with a battery], took the valve body totally apart, and cleaned it.

Also, adjusted the trans cable on the throttle body.

It turned out that it was the ecu that was bad. Might want to buy a used ecu off Ebay, and give it a try before pulling the trans. Not to mention that a good used ecu is not a bad thing to have as a spare even if its not the issue.

Heck, even my life long buddy who has been a transmission mechanic for over 35 years said it was the torque convertor going out. [which is another reason I changed out the TC].
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It has to be warm for it to shift at all. If I warm it up and get the temp gauge off the C it will shift out of 1st to 2nd when I come off the gas and rpms are around 3k. Then it shifts up to 3rd and OD with no problems. I did step on it while getting on the freeway and it did not engage 2nd it just went into neutral and almost redlines. Then when I let the rpms drop it slipped into 2nd and was fine. As for harsh shifts. No it is not clunking into gear amd 2nd to 3rd is silky smooth. The transmission was rebuilt 5k miles ago, but over the 12 month warranty. So I believe the clutch packs should be good. Shop that fixed it is of no help and this is the problem the previous owner had before the rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I just went through this. My trans would hang all the way to over 4k to shift if I would let it, but if I lifted on the throttle it would shift. Now my trans did this in every gear until about 20 minutes of driving. After that it would start to shift on its own. Also, at times it would do this after getting groceries, again, after driving for a while, it would shift normally.

About lost my mind trying to figure it out. I first looked at the temp sending unit, and replaced it with an OEM part, and........nothing changed.

I changed out the torque convertor, checked all of my shift solenoids [tested them with a battery], took the valve body totally apart, and cleaned it.

Also, adjusted the trans cable on the throttle body.

It turned out that it was the ecu that was bad. Might want to buy a used ecu off Ebay, and give it a try before pulling the trans. Not to mention that a good used ecu is not a bad thing to have as a spare even if its not the issue.

Heck, even my life long buddy who has been a transmission mechanic for over 35 years said it was the torque convertor going out. [which is another reason I changed out the TC].
When replacing the ECM how did you reprogram the teansponder keys and keyless entry?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Is it a harsh shift from 1>2 @ 3K and ever other shift from 2>3 and 3>4 is smooth?
I would re-check fluid level for ATF while the car is running on even ground (check fluid once going into each gear and then park). I've had incorrect fluid level give some weird shifting in the past.
The ATF level is good. I have checked it several times. Both cold and hot. It is between the notches on the dipstick.
 

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When replacing the ECM how did you reprogram the teansponder keys and keyless entry?
You don't have to worry about that bs on a 93 Camry. Just plug in the new/used ecu, and drive it.

One of the many reasons I will never own a newer car with that transponder crap.

However, if its like my old 05 Nissan, what I did was buy the used ecm, and the matching ignition switch with the matching VATS [vehicle anti-theft system] and matching master key. That way all you should have to do is install it, and drive, providing the used parts are in good working order.
 

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You don't have to worry about that bs on a 93 Camry. Just plug in the new/used ecu, and drive it.

One of the many reasons I will never own a newer car with that transponder crap.

However, if its like my old 05 Nissan, what I did was buy the used ecm, and the matching ignition switch with the matching VATS [vehicle anti-theft system] and matching master key. That way all you should have to do is install it, and drive, providing the used parts are in good working order.

Well my car is an 03 Solara so I have transponder keys. Where did you source all the parts for your Nissan? I have checked EBay and not found keys or security system listed with any of them.
 

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This is for a Honda, [I couldn't find anything for a Solara, but my search skills aren't the best] so you get the idea.


As long as everything came from the same car, ie ecu, immobilizer, ignition switch, and MASTER KEY [make SURE you get the MASTER KEY, and not a valet key as you absolutely need the master for this to work], all you have to do is install everything, and start the engine. This is the only way I know of where you don't have to go to the dealer.

Like I mentioned, my car is a 93 so all I need is another ecu with matching part numbers. Plug it in , and drive. I just bought a used ecm for my car, and it was $19. Fixed all of the issues. No more lifting off the damned throttle to let the transmission shift.

Last option is to take your ecm out. Take the cover off, and look at all of the capacitors, and see if any are leaking.

I took the cover off my OEM, ecu, and yep, there was one cap leaking. I ordered a new capacitor kit, and will be installing them in my oem, ecu, and will keep it for a backup.

Here is what a leaking cap looks like. Its the big cap at the bottom left. Look at all of the black gunk on the board around the cap. That is what you would be looking for.
 
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