I'm looking to replace the brakes on my 97 LE, pads and rotors. Apart from the new pads and rotors as well as tools (jack, jack stands, wrenches, etc.), what should be on my list of things to get? I figure brake cleaner, brake fluid...anything else? Any other "parts"?
Shopping List for Brake Job
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all disc or rear drums?
if drums, its nice to have a brake adjusting tool but a flat blade screwdriver will work too to adjust them when you're done.
brake grease to grease the rubbing spots: 6 on each drum back, pad glides and backs and slider pins for discs.
a mask so you don't breathe in the brake dust, especially for drums.
again, if drums, a couple of bolts to thread into them to remove them helps or pb blaster and a torch or a 9lb sledge hammer if they're really bad works as a last resort.
a brake bleeder wrench is nice to have but regular mm wrenches will do also if you have smaller sizes.
a brake bleed cup or something to catch the fluid is great to keep you from cleaning it off the garage floor.
don't let the mc go dry or you'll be bleeding all 4's.
do one wheel at a time so you have a good reference if you forgot to take good pics before tearing into the job.
lots of go-jo to cleanup afterwards.
tony
if drums, its nice to have a brake adjusting tool but a flat blade screwdriver will work too to adjust them when you're done.
brake grease to grease the rubbing spots: 6 on each drum back, pad glides and backs and slider pins for discs.
a mask so you don't breathe in the brake dust, especially for drums.
again, if drums, a couple of bolts to thread into them to remove them helps or pb blaster and a torch or a 9lb sledge hammer if they're really bad works as a last resort.
a brake bleeder wrench is nice to have but regular mm wrenches will do also if you have smaller sizes.
a brake bleed cup or something to catch the fluid is great to keep you from cleaning it off the garage floor.
don't let the mc go dry or you'll be bleeding all 4's.
do one wheel at a time so you have a good reference if you forgot to take good pics before tearing into the job.
lots of go-jo to cleanup afterwards.
tony
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To be thorough, get a "brake hardware kit" and replace all that too. It comes with the anti-rattle clips that go in the caliper where the brake pad "ears" go. Pay attention when you're removing the old ones. There are slightly different ones in each position. I do 'em one at a time to be sure I don't mess it up. Also has the little wire springs that pull the pads apart (away from the rotor) when you're off the brakes.
+1 on bmr bout the brake kit. if you can find it cause most of the time the shoes/pads don't come with the springs and sometimes not even new pad slider rails.
many of the parts can be cleaned with brake cleaner and reused if they're not broken/bent/worn if you can't find them new.
tony
many of the parts can be cleaned with brake cleaner and reused if they're not broken/bent/worn if you can't find them new.
tony
New pad shims if the pads don't come with them. Disc brake grease for slides and clips.
In order to get the new pads on you will need to force the pistons back into the caliper. There is a special inexpensive tool for that or use adjustable pipe pliers. Remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before the pushing the pistons back. Inspect the piston boot for tears.
In order to get the new pads on you will need to force the pistons back into the caliper. There is a special inexpensive tool for that or use adjustable pipe pliers. Remove some brake fluid from the reservoir before the pushing the pistons back. Inspect the piston boot for tears.
Sure that's not the parking brake drum?
Assuming that you have a 4.5 gen 4 cyl Camry, this webpage gives you EVERYTHING you need. But be prepared that the price could be ridiculous. The hardware kit from RockAuto is about 10 times cheaper than OEM kits, but the quality is not close. I threw away the included wear indicators right out of the box b/c they won't fit snugly into the pads. Quality of the anti-ratttle clips and springs are also dubious, but they do work. Better than nothing. So if the old hardware is still working, don't replace them.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200106_TOYOTA_CAMRY_SXV20L-CEPNKA_4705.html
I also have one question. There are four 'PLATE, PAD SUPPORT'. Are they the equivalent to '04947FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT'?
Also these '04945 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT 04945-33020 ' will cost about $40 online. Pretty expensive.
http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_U_200106_TOYOTA_CAMRY_SXV20L-CEPNKA_4705.html
I also have one question. There are four 'PLATE, PAD SUPPORT'. Are they the equivalent to '04947FITTING KIT, DISC BRAKE, FRONT'?
Also these '04945 SHIM KIT, ANTI SQUEAL, FRONT 04945-33020 ' will cost about $40 online. Pretty expensive.
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118 Posts
don't waste your money on the rockauto brake kits, IE the powerstop ones, I did this for my 2000 just because I wanted to and now the front rotors are warped. high speed slow downs shakes the steering wheel. I know its the damn rotors.I'm glad I kept the stock rotors as I will be putting them on in the next day or 2. if the rotors are good and not scored, have them turned at your local Oreally or somewhere. they will be fine. your likely just needing new pads and shoes.
PB Blaster. You may need it. Silicone grease suitable for use in the caliper pin locations. Inspect the boots for the caliper pins for cracks and replace if needed. I like to use a round nylon bristle brush and PB blaster to clean the bores for the caliper pins. Torque wrench.
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6,208 Posts
Hm, I'm going to keep an eye out for this. I've been using Powerstop ceramic kits from RockAuto or Amazon on Camrys for a while now and have never had a problem...and I brake pretty hard. Now I'm ancy about them due to the number I've installed :surprise:
I know they're 17mm bolts for the caliper mounting bracket...but I can't for the life of me get them off, any suggestions?
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6,208 Posts
I second the pipe and ratchet...used to have a slim, sexy aluminum pipe that fit over my 3/8" ratchet. Was great until it didn't fit over my 1/2"...Lowe's supplied me with a heavy, lumbering bruiser's pipe.
On sale you can pick up extending 18" long 1/2" ratchets at HF for $13 or thereabouts. Same length as my breaker bar but a lot more useful.
79 ft-lbs when you're done, HTH
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14,720 Posts
Nothing at all if it fits your tool and gives you enough leverage. I use the pipe-handle from my hydraulic bottle jack.
So...part of the problem is that one of the brake pads on the driver side popped off while driving down the road.....the Haynes manual talks about usingetting the inner and outer shimspace from the old pads (if I'm reading it correctly), but I bought Duralast max pads that said they came with anti squal shims included, so do I need the two shims that were on the old pads? And for that matter is there anything on the missing brake pad that I'm going to need?
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If the new pads have the shims on the back, don't re-use the OEM shims. You might keep them instead of throwing them away, in case your next set of pads don't have them.
You might have to re-use the wear indicator "squeakers"... Little clips that rub on the rotor when the pads get thin. Some new pads come with those too. Like the Akebono pads.
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