I'm looking at a couple of T-100s up in that mileage range, one in particular at 172 K, price seems reasonable for the 4WD xcab SR5....at $6500,.....just looking for feedback regarding dependability of the truck at that age/mileage
Its a Toyota. Milage isnt a concern.
They say that 200,000 miles is "just broke-in" for a Toyota.
I had an '85 4Runner that had over 245,000 miles on it that ran like brand new.
Just make sure you test drive it and make sure that it starts and runs good and that it doesnt make any weird noises or have any weird vibrations.
If it runs good and drives good, I say go for it! :thumbsup:
Check the back fenders and frame for deep rust by taking a hammer and tapping the back frame,also do a fluid analysis on the engine oil by buying a fluid/oil analysis kit from any Caterpillar dealer's parts dept or some heavy duty shops which would tell you how healthy the engine is if the engine oil and radiator coolant was changed regularly on those engines you can get at least 300 000 miles.
Remove the spark plugs and look at them as a picture means a thousand words if it has a manual tranny park the vehicle on a hill facing downwards then put the tranny in first gear and shut it off,don't use the parking brake or foot break if the vehicle holds itself well in first then your engines piston rings are great then you have high compression (no leakage past the rings),also when the engine is running remove the oil filler cap and see if you have b l o w by,a healthy engine should have a vaccum effect if you put your palm on the oil filler cap.
Finally if you have a portable air compressor perform a leak down test on the engine,for more info on a leak down test do a search on Google.
By the way find out where the guy works which would tell you if it has highway miles or city miles.Pull the ECU codes.
Pulling the ECU codes is the first thing I do to diagnosis a problem thereafter I reset the ECU to see if the same problems show up and if so I then take voltage measurements both with the engine running and not and compare with the factory service manual,I also close the ignition switch after a cold engine and also after a warm engine and compare them with the factory service manual.This technique will completely isolate your problem without having to do trial and error and it is the technique I use when repairing tv's,vcr's,home/car audio.
Also verify that the VIN (serial #) matches the parts & color of the vehicle that you might buy incase it was in an accident or stolen (made from chop shop parts):
1)check all 4 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap
2)clean throttle body
3)Replace front (exhaust/front pipe)oxygen sensor
4)replace alternator carbon brushes
5)Replace starter copper contacts
6)Lube brake bleeder screws,other parts including rubber suspension parts & spare tire assembly
7)In auto tranny CHANGE THE FLUID to avoid shift solenoids from going bad
8)sandblast frame specially back frames if you live in an area where it snows and road salt is used then coat frame with http://www.por15.com
And in detail below are the above info:
Check all 6 spark plugs,rotor & distributor cap.Then clean the throttle body and replace the oxygen sensor.Also pull the ECU codes incase a part is an electronic sensor is faulty or bad wiring.
Usually excessive short trip city miles combined with low octane gasoline causes excessive carbon build up in the throttle body which does not allow sufficient airflow and hence the butterfly flap/accelerator plate to close all the way.
To clean the throttle body remove the air intake hose and examine the intake and throttle body for excessive carbon build if found then buy a can of throttle body cleaner labeled "safe on oxygen sensors,TPS's and catalytic converters" do not use carb cleaner make sure your engine is fully warmed up prior to using as when the throttle body is hot it dissolves the carbon easily and quickly.The labels usually specify to park the vehicle at ground level (0 degrees,no inclination) and have the engine running but I disagree I instead park the vehicle on a hill facing down and shut the engine off and hold a rag below the lip of the throttle body and poor the stuff and use a tooth brush.
Repairs tv's,vcr's,home/car audio out of my home
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 246 000 KM
Dude I drive a 98 x-cab 4wd with 150k and it runs like a champ....You may want to ask when was the last time the Timing Belt was replaced...That's about a $300 job including the other 3 belts....Also where do you live? Rust can be an issue...
Man I wouldn't worry. My '94 manual has 211,000 miles on it and runs like champ!:thumbup:
All I've done to her is replaced the head an oil pan gaskets and regular maintainence like plugs, belts and fluids and one change of the clutch. So far so good!!!