Toyota Nation Forum banner

81 - 100 of 319 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
248 Posts
Got an email back from Kevin McCoy of Dick Dyer Toyota.

It's going to be about $180 shipped.

here is his info:
[email protected]

Part numbers:

81730-52100
81740-52050
87945-0T020-C0
87915-0T020-C0
82998-24290


This is for attitude black.

-Anthony
I think you guys are paying too much. It costs me just under $100 with shipping for Magnetic Grey with shipping.

http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/products/COVER--OUTER-MIRROR--RH-GRAY-ME-1G3/8455664/879150T020B1.html


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
So got it installed today, didn't splice in the wires but ran them threw the door and took some pics along the way, once i'm done splicing in, i'll put up the EWDs i have and the pictures of the splices :)

Here are some pics for now guys:



Graf, what part number did you use for this install? They look a bit diferent than the ones Onequan and laurido used on their pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Graf, what part number did you use for this install? They look a bit diferent than the ones Onequan and laurido used on their pics.
Sorry about that, i tried to stress in other posts that i was going to use a different signal but looking over my posts, i did not flat out say it. (I only gave instructions that would work with the oem ones)

They are aftermarket MIT ones i got shipped in for the Toyota Camry Aurion - Poped right into the same slot that everyone else is using, I went with them because instead of just being turn signals they have puddle lights and running lights on them.

My install is identical to the oem ones, but i had to run a wire for the running lights (when the headlights are on) and one for reverse and another wire for when the doors are open (puddle).

Here is a link to them at night: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/396824-what-did-you-do-your-gen-7-camry-today-30.html#post4012575
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,436 Posts
Sorry about that, i tried to stress in other posts that i was going to use a different signal but looking over my posts, i did not flat out say it. (I only gave instructions that would work with the oem ones)

They are aftermarket MIT ones i got shipped in for the Toyota Camry Aurion - Poped right into the same slot that everyone else is using, I went with them because instead of just being turn signals they have puddle lights and running lights on them.

My install is identical to the oem ones, but i had to run a wire for the running lights (when the headlights are on) and one for reverse and another wire for when the doors are open (puddle).

Here is a link to them at night: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/396824-what-did-you-do-your-gen-7-camry-today-30.html#post4012575
Do you have a link to where you got it? And which one you actually bought?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Sorry about that, i tried to stress in other posts that i was going to use a different signal but looking over my posts, i did not flat out say it. (I only gave instructions that would work with the oem ones)

They are aftermarket MIT ones i got shipped in for the Toyota Camry Aurion - Poped right into the same slot that everyone else is using, I went with them because instead of just being turn signals they have puddle lights and running lights on them.

My install is identical to the oem ones, but i had to run a wire for the running lights (when the headlights are on) and one for reverse and another wire for when the doors are open (puddle).

Here is a link to them at night: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/396824-what-did-you-do-your-gen-7-camry-today-30.html#post4012575
Those look awesome! Should have done some more research before ordering the OEMs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Do you have a link to where you got it? And which one you actually bought?
I actually had alot of back and forth with different ebay sellers and ended up negotiating directly with Top Sage International - their ebay front: http://stores.ebay.com/MIT-Accessories?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 I went with Top Sage for one good reason: I got better customer service out of them responding to my questions than I do out of alot of american companies ^.^.

The package i got from them came with the signals, felt pads to fill any spaces, insulated wiring for the puddle/reverse/running lights, and a fuse block to have it all plug into. Oh and red scotch Loks, i didn't use the one's they sent me since i had already ordered 100 blue ones from amazon lol :p

Since they were meant to replace existing turn signals, i added 2 more fuses (one for the left and one for the right), and 4x more wires as their wires terminated in the door (again, ment to replace and use the existing wires that are in the Asian camry). My fuse block sits under my head unit :)


One of the emails i got from them did list a part number, so you can try to get it cheaper by tracking it down: C29CM-06B01

* I should note the back and forth was mostly to figure out if it was going to fit my car or not, Eddie was very helpful and usually responded with in 24h of my question with pictures of their covers, their mounting points. [edit] it looks like he has posted some of those pictures onto the ebay page for the aruion turn signals :)

I was originally going to order the cover and lights from them, but in the course of discussions and looking at the pictures he sent me and i sent him, we both agree'd that the Asian Camry mounting points for the covers were different than the american ones.

I did a slight mod to make sure it all worked perfectly, and had pictures of all of it before my sdcard became corrupt :-/ If you go the aftermarket route give me a heads up and i'll help you if you have any questions :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Lets call this a first draft

Please, this is a very long post, if you click reply to it, please trim the Quote section down to only the part you are asking about! Thank You!
I took some pictures this weekend to recover from the ones I lost when my sd card went to poo.

So lets call this a first draft at a how to on this install, with the hopes that we can all pitch in and make it better!

Tools needed:
  • Plastic trim removal tools
  • Jewelers flat-head screw driver
  • A good Philips screw driver, med size
  • 10mm socket wrench.
  • Electrical Tape
  • Scotch Loks
  • Electrical wire to run from the signals to the inside of the car
  • 2x inline fuses
Optional: Grommets, heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun, a wire-fishing tool to run your wires from the car door into the car.

Parts:
For your reference, the VENZA parts you are ordering that fit on the Toyota Camry 2012:

OEM Turn Signals
81730-52100
81740-52050

Mirror Covers:
The only concern you might have is if your car is a colour the venza does not come in. The camry and the 2013 venza share 6 common colours, Attitude black, barcelona red, cosmic gray, classic silver, magnetic gray and cypress pearl. So if your camry is white, beige (tan) or clearwater blue you may have to buy a black 2013 venza side mirror cover and repaint it.
  • Barcelona Red
    87945-0T020-D0
    87915-0T020-D0
  • Magnetic Grey Metallic, (1G3)
    87945-0T020-B1
    87915-0T020-B1
  • Cosmic Grey Mica (1H2)
    87945-0T020-B2
    87915-0T020-B2
  • Attitude Black
    87945-0T020-C0
    87915-0T020-C0
  • Super White
    Not Carried
  • Blizzard White Pearl (This is a Venza color, not a Camry color)
    87915-0T020-A0
    87945-0T020-A0
  • Other Colors:
    Only colors carried in the Venza line are offered.
    I will update this list more as people post more colors up
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/products/COVER--OUTER-MIRROR--LH-GRAY-ME-1G3/8456419/879450T020B1.html Is a good site to use as a reference to find your color. When you do, please post!

*Personally* I walked into the toyota dealership near my work during lunch, had a sales rep point me to the Venza's, found one of them in my camry's color, took a picture of the vin, walked into the parts office, handed him my phone and asked him to please look up the covers for that car (i knew the color code for my car before i walked in :) )

Wires - For OEM
4x 82998-24290
You can buy oem or get your own wires, they are just terminal points that plug into the turn signal (OEM only, aftermarkets some pre-wired)


Time needed: Leave yourself at least 2 hours min to do this install. It's not complicated just alot of things to remove, if it is your first time taking apart this particular car, expect longer :)

I have re-taken some pictures of the install.

Since this was the first post 1990 toyota i have taken apart, i figured i would start with everything you will need to take off (including the door) and then get into the driver side dash, and the mirror with the EWD to finish things off:)

Instructions:
1. Roll down your windows, trust me you'll want to know how far down that window goes and be able to reach through and grab your mirror when you remove it from the car :)

2. With any mod to the electrical system, I recommend doing it cold: disconnect the battery.


Now lets start from the door and work our way over, you will need to remove the doors on both sides. Here is how i remove the door, again, there might be a better way, if you know it, tell me!

3. Carefully remove the side-cowls:


4. There are 3 screws holding this door in place, the first one is behind the door handle:
Put your plastic removing tool on the inside of the lock, press in with the tool:


5. Prey the plastic away and reveal the screw inside, the door handle will have to be pulled out to get it fully out easily.

Remove the screw you see in the above picture, set it aside in a safe place.

6. Now i like to start near the back of the door control, slip your tool in gingerly to not leave any marks and start to pry it up:


7. After you have worked your way up, disconnect all of the connections you see. (2?)


8. Now lets get off that second piece, like the last one, start near the back and Gingerly work your way in and then pry up on the arm rest:


9. Now remove these two screws, and put them in a safe place as well.


10. Now the next part is up to debate, however from what i read, everyone says start from the bottom, remove as many tabs as you can find using your tool, and then PRESS UP on the door to remove the panel.

I started with the first tab i could see, bottom left of the door, you can position your tool by looking down where the arm rest used to be:

Bottom view of this starting point


11. After you have poped out all of the white tabs on the bottom and then pushed up on the panel to remove it. Disconnect the window mirror, and remove these 3 bolts:

Make sure as you remove the last one you have a hand out the window, so it doesn't drop in the ground!

12. Optional but not really: Remove and disconnect the speaker from the door.

Wire Up the OEM Signals
Thank you Rican03!
It is possible to use non-oem terminal wires, or to wire it in your self with some solder, however, if you want a plug n glue method, check this out from Rican03!

Inventory layout per side

1. Insert cable terminal in each pin, should look like this

2. Using tip of silicone rtv tube, squeeze rtv until the terminal portion is covered. I squeezed just enough to create a seal that came over the edge to prevent water from dripping on the wires and possibly going towards the light (blame the pecismist!)

3. Wait for it to cure (24 hours recommended) and enjoy!

Mirror time:

Now that you have the mirror off, lets get it apart and wire it up

1. first thing is first, lets get the mirror cover off. Now I have seen opinions on this one go all over the place, from removing the mirror it's self first to bashing the cover with an axe (dont do that)

I start with the inner tab in the back corner of the mirror.

You can press the mirror around to get to the other tabs, i personally focus on the lower tabs (2) and then press hard on the middle tab.

Another method after you have pressed that first tab up and away is to work your way around the outside, slowly prying the cover off:

Stick a very small flat head screw driver into any of the areas indicated with an arrow and then insert your pry tool and slide it along the edge. The cover should pop right off.
:)thumbsup: onequan!)

2. Now lets get that lower access port open! Get yourself a jewelers screw driver out, now you see a small tab near the inside. I put my tool in there and pried it out :)


3. I personally sperated the outside platic so i could run the wires better:

4. Now, mine is different than most in the fact that i have ALOT more wires than normal, but the path you take should look like this:

Go up and then down the hole.
Now go back up the hole and out following the current cables, or drilling yourself a new one. If you drill, use a grommet and fill that gap!


5. Press the light into place, you should hear it sort of click and now you will be good to go!

If you want to screw it into place, you will need to remove the front mirror.

6. Press on the new cover, starting at the bottom and then pressing in the top. Your mirror can now be re-installed and start wiring through your door.

7. Wiring through the door, Hint:

A.) Follow the existing wires. Follow them closely. That window has very little tolerance and it will rip your cables out if you are not careful.
B.) I flat out removed all of the wires and the rubber tube connecting the door to the car and ran my wires through that. You can fish into it, or not, it is easier to do it that way.

Ok, now the door is ready, lets get started on the inside,

1. Remove the lower kick cover, to start, remove the hand-twist screw shown here:


2. Now you do not have to remove the inner sill, but I do it anyways, start from inside the car and pull up

Now you can pull both the kick cover and the inner sill safely (they are attached with each other)

3. Now the covers to the right and left of the center console should get out of the way. I do it with my hands and press my fingers in the seem in the back, and pull twords myself:


4. Now lets remove that lower panel, there is a Phillips screw and a 10mm bolt to remove, they are highlighted here:



Once you have them removed, You can remove the lower cover now, but the hood release will still be attached, so pull down carefully as you feel it giveway.

5. To remove the hood release, press down on the center most white tab, and press away from yourself:



Repeat the above process for the other side of the car.

Now some people have said you should remove upper-dsah, the dash it's self, the center console, the passenger lower-side. You can, I am not going to detail those here.

When I ran my wires, i avoided any MOVING PARTS and anything that looks like it would get HOT.
Here is the general path i followed


Remember to zip-tie where you can, use heat shrinking tubes at all points where the cable may rub up against the door and become stripped over time.

The wiring cluster you are going to connect to is under the steering wheel, i used scotch-lok connectors to make my splices.

Sorry for the messy pictures, i have clean these up before i put the cover back on:

(oem installs should have only 2 connections here)

I decided to tap into the back turn signal wires:

3C-5 is the rear 'running' lights, OEM installs will not need worry about this.



Please remember to attach your fuses on your connections, zip-tie and be generous with the electrical tape!

Put everything back together, in reverse order!

Enjoy!

Thank you onequan for figuring this out! And everyone who is helping make this more complete!

I will update this more as i get more time to take more pictures and be more clear about some of these steps! Feed back is welcome to make it better! :woot:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
So since you hooked up the power to the fuse box. What power keeps the white on?
Running lights, the rear tail lights turn on when your headlights are active, I tapped into that. So during the day it is not on (looks like it is on because of the reflective-ness of the turn signal) and at dusk / night they turn on.

I have been mulling over adding a switch, but for now that is a simple solution. If i want the light on, i just turn my headlights to the on position.

And go right ahead with the pdf anthony, only reason i didn't do that and offer it as a file myself is that I was waiting to for any more info/feed back from people before i finalized it ^^
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Gotcha. Ok, i'll definitely tap into the running lights then.

Thanks for the info.

I'll make it into a PDF after I do mine.
I just gotta wait for the quarter to end.
Thanks!


-Anthony
np && that would be perfect, that way someone can go over it all before it gets into a final form :) I think i did mark it in the ewd i put up, should be 3c-5 (pink)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Gotcha. Ok, i'll definitely tap into the running lights then.

Thanks for the info.

I'll make it into a PDF after I do mine.
I just gotta wait for the quarter to end.
Thanks!


-Anthony
I should get my parts tomorrow or tuesday an most likely tackle it next weekend. I will post some pics as well....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
215 Posts
Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
side mirror turn signal

Mirror time

Now that you have the mirror off, lets get it apart and wire it up

1. first thing is first, lets get the mirror cover off. Now I have seen opinions on this one go all over the place, from removing the mirror it's self first to bashing the cover with an axe (dont do that)

I start with the inner tab in the back corner of the mirror.

You can press the mirror around to get to the other tabs, i personally focus on the lower tabs (2) and then press hard on the middle tab.

Another method after you have pressed that first tab up and away is to work your way around the outside, slowly prying the cover off. I never liked that method buy hey, it works.

That is the method I used. I did not remove the entire mirror however.

Stick a very small flat head screw driver into any of the areas indicated with an arrow and then insert your pry tool and slide it along the edge. The cover should pop right off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
484 Posts
I took some pictures this weekend to recover from the ones I lost when my sd card went to poo.

So lets call this a first draft at a how to on this install, with the hopes that we can all pitch in and make it better!

Tools needed:
  • Plastic trim removal tools
  • Jewelers flat-head screw driver
  • A good Philips screw driver, med size
  • 10mm socket wrench.
  • Electrical Tape
  • Scotch Loks
  • Electrical wire to run from the signals to the inside of the car
  • 2x inline fuses
Optional: Grommets, heat-shrink tubing and a heat gun, a wire-fishing tool to run your wires from the car door into the car.

Time needed: Leave yourself 2 hours min to do this install. It's not complicated just ALOT of things to remove.

I have re-taken some pictures of the install.
Since this was the first post 1990 toyota i have taken apart, i figured i would start with everything you will need to take off (including the door) and then get into the driver side dash, and the mirror with the EWD to finish things off:)

1. Roll down your windows, trust me you'll want to know how far down that window goes and be able to reach through and grab your mirror when you remove it from the car :)

2. With any mod to the electical system, I recommend doing it cold: disconnect the battery.


Now lets start from the door and work our way over, you will need to remove the doors on both sides. Here is how i remove the door, again, there might be a better way, if you know it, tell me!

3. Carefully remove the side-cowls:


4. There are 3 screws holding this door in place, the first one is behind the door handle:
Put your plastic removing tool on the inside of the lock, press in with the tool:


5. Prey the plastic away and reveal the screw inside, the door handle will have to be pulled out to get it fully out easily.

Remove the screw you see in the above picture, set it aside in a safe place.

6. Now i like to start near the back of the door control, slip your tool in gingerly to not leave any marks and start to pry it up:


7. After you have worked your way up, disconnect all of the connections you see. (2?)


8. Now lets get off that second piece, like the last one, start near the back and Gingerly work your way in and then pry up on the arm rest:


9. Now remove these two screws, and put them in a safe place as well.


10. Now the next part is up to debate, however from what i read, everyone says start from the bottom, remove as many tabs as you can find using your tool, and then PRESS UP on the door to remove the panel.

I started with the first tab i could see, bottom left of the door, you can position your tool by looking down where the arm rest used to be:

Bottom view of this starting point


11. After you have poped out all of the white tabs on the bottom and then pushed up on the panel to remove it. Disconnect the window mirror, and remove these 3 bolts:

Make sure as you remove the last one you have a hand out the window, so it doesn't drop in the ground!

12. Optional but not really: Remove and disconnect the speaker from the door.

Mirror time:

Now that you have the mirror off, lets get it apart and wire it up

1. first thing is first, lets get the mirror cover off. Now I have seen opinions on this one go all over the place, from removing the mirror it's self first to bashing the cover with an axe (dont do that)

I start with the inner tab in the back corner of the mirror.

You can press the mirror around to get to the other tabs, i personally focus on the lower tabs (2) and then press hard on the middle tab.

Another method after you have pressed that first tab up and away is to work your way around the outside, slowly prying the cover off. I never liked that method buy hey, it works.

2. Now lets get that lower access port open! Get yourself a jewelers screw driver out, now you see a small tab near the inside. I put my tool in there and pried it out :)


3. I personally sperated the outside platic so i could run the wires better:

4. Now, mine is different than most in the fact that i have ALOT more wires than normal, but the path you take should look like this:

Go up and then down the hole.
Now go back up the hole and out following the current cables, or drilling yourself a new one. If you drill, use a grommet and fill that gap!


5. Press the light into place, you should hear it sort of click and now you will be good to go!

If you want to screw it into place, you will need to remove the front mirror.

6. Press on the new cover, starting at the bottom and then pressing in the top. Your mirror can now be re-installed and start wiring through your door.

7. Wiring through the door, Hint:

A.) Follow the existing wires. Follow them closely. That window has very little tolerance and it will rip your cables out if you are not careful.
B.) I flat out removed all of the wires and the rubber tube connecting the door to the car and ran my wires through that. You can fish into it, or not, it is easier to do it that way.

Ok, now the door is ready, lets get started on the inside,

1. Remove the lower kick cover, to start, remove the hand-twist screw shown here:


2. Now you do not have to remove the inner sill, but I do it anyways, start from inside the car and pull up

Now you can pull both the kick cover and the inner sill safely (they are attached with each other)

3. Now the covers to the right and left of the center console should get out of the way. I do it with my hands and press my fingers in the seem in the back, and pull twords myself:


4. Now lets remove that lower panel, there is a Phillips screw and a 10mm bolt to remove, they are highlighted here:



Once you have them removed, You can remove the lower cover now, but the hood release will still be attached, so pull down carefully as you feel it giveway.

5. To remove the hood release, press down on the center most white tab, and press away from yourself:



Repeat the above process for the other side of the car.

Now some people have said you should remove upper-dsah, the dash it's self, the center console, the passenger lower-side. You can, I am not going to detail those here.

When I ran my wires, i avoided any MOVING PARTS and anything that looks like it would get HOT.
Here is the general path i followed


Remember to zip-tie where you can, use heat shrinking tubes at all points where the cable may rub up against the door and become stripped over time.

The wiring cluster you are going to connect to is under the steering wheel, i used scotch-lok connectors to make my splices.

Sorry for the messy pictures, i have clean these up before i put the cover back on:

(oem installs should have only 2 connections here)

I decided to tap into the back turn signal wires:




Please remember to attach your fuses on your connections, zip-tie and be generous with the electrical tape!

Put everything back together, in reverse order!

Enjoy!



(after market turn signal above)


I will update this more as i get more time to take more pictures and be more clear about some of these steps! Feed back is welcome to make it better!
Hi, can you make pictures with turn signal on from front and rear? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
Hi, can you make pictures with turn signal on from front and rear? Thanks
--> I did some here :
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/310-7th-generation-2012/396824-what-did-you-do-your-gen-7-camry-today-30.html#post4012575

From the rear, you can not see that the light is on :) Unless you are talking about the blinking turn signal, which.. would be an interesting picture to take now that i think about it... hmm...

lockdown36 said:
You quoted all that just to say fourteen words....?
I feel partially responsible for that now :( :computer:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
133 Posts
Pretty easy install. Also dynamat xtreme my front doors while I was in there and had the speaker out. So my install took longer than normal time. Only question I have. On the Toyota turn signals does it matter which is positive and negative??? I hooked it up both ways and it worked. Here is a pic.

 
81 - 100 of 319 Posts
About this Discussion
318 Replies
80 Participants
Kyle1990
Toyota Nation Forum
ToyotaNation Forum is a community dedicated to all Toyota models. Come discuss the Camry, Tacoma, Highlander, 4Runner, Rav4 and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top