[80_pickup]

Whats your favorite sludge remover product.

I used to commercial Motor Flush, and it did... well i couldn't exactly tell a big difference when i drained it.


Anyone else use different techniques to get rid of the sludge? I heard you can add a quart of transmittion fluid in there idle if for 5 mins then drain it.

COmments please

 

[Sidney]

I and many love Sea Foam:

http://www.seafoamsales.com

Sidney® ™
Repairs TV's,VCR's,home/car audio out of my apartment
E-mail:sidneybek(at)yahoo.com
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada

 

[toyota_man82]

pyroil engine flush they have it at shchucks

 

[80_pickup]

A ******* Told me to mix 2 Quarts of diesel fuel with the oil and it will clean it!

Dont think that sounds too safe.

 

[84toyotabeeter]

+1 on the sea foam top end cleaner and bottom just follow the instructions

 

[80_pickup]

I didn't see on their website where Seamfoam should be mixed with the oil in order to destroy the sludge build up. So I would be pretty weary before someone wants to do that.

 

[jamesn]

i have used almost all of them over the years. the only thing that actually (slowly) cleans out your engine down to bare metal is called Auto-rx. it is only available at autorx.com it is perhaps the most amazing stuff i have ever used. it takes awhile but it will actually free stuck rings and increase your effective compression. i gained over 10psi across the board on my acura with 150k miles. there is more info about it at the Bobistheoilguy.com oil additives forum. see here:

http://tinyurl.com/2a3t4n

 

[80_pickup]

The instructions for the product above made me read in circles!

I am looking for something easy to use.

 

[jamesn]

The instructions for the product above made me read in circles!

I am looking for something easy to use.

it IS easy to use. the instructions are just lousy. you put it in at a fresh oil change using non synthetic oil. change the oil/filter after 2500 miles. this stuff can knock so much stuff loose that it will plug up your oil filter. that is why the short oil change intervals. run a regular 3000 mile oil change to flush more crap out of the engine and if you have over 100k miles or if you have serious oil burning, repeat the process.

NOTHING works like this stuff. nothing. this stuff has an incredible polar attraction to metal. that is, once it get ahold of bare metal it displaces anything else by getting under it and removing it from the metal in order to get in contact with more metal. i know it sounds strange, but that is how it works. i am doing a double dose on the 88 toyota i just bought with 219k miles on it.

 

[80_pickup]

it IS easy to use. the instructions are just lousy. you put it in at a fresh oil change using non synthetic oil. change the oil/filter after 2500 miles. this stuff can knock so much stuff loose that it will plug up your oil filter. that is why the short oil change intervals. run a regular 3000 mile oil change to flush more crap out of the engine and if you have over 100k miles or if you have serious oil burning, repeat the process.

NOTHING works like this stuff. nothing. this stuff has an incredible polar attraction to metal. that is, once it get ahold of bare metal it displaces anything else by getting under it and removing it from the metal in order to get in contact with more metal. i know it sounds strange, but that is how it works. i am doing a double dose on the 88 toyota i just bought with 219k miles on it.

Damn, you gotta do a shit load of oil changes with it. Maybe if i had tons of cheap motor oil and a box full of filters haha. If it can clog the filter what if it clogs the oil sending unit?

 

[jamesn]

Damn, you gotta do a shit load of oil changes with it. Maybe if i had tons of cheap motor oil and a box full of filters haha. If it can clog the filter what if it clogs the oil sending unit?

i would not worry about that. no fluid flows through the sensor. it can give you fluctuating readings while crap is being moved through the oil system on its way to the filter though. nothing to worry about.

 

[mburnickas]

For sludge or varnish is easy, LC20 or 131. Cheap and work..If you cannot find those, kero will work with diesel (15 minutes)...Amsoil engine flush works too.

The others out there I trust like zero. Same users posting, etc. Sorry but when I see users get banned from a certain site, posts removed etc, it makes you wonder.

 

[shonuff]

switch to a better brand of oil changes and change the oil often when hot.



it will clear up after 3-4 oil changes






a quart of tranny fluid works pretty good too.

 

[mburnickas]

I agree. My product will work and so does just using a nice engine oil.

 

[sc2dave]

If it can clog the filter what if it clogs the oil sending unit?

It liquidfies all the junk,no solid pieces.

 

[CrunchyM5K]

Here is a guy that tried to flush his engine with water.
http://www.mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html
I would not suggest this method.
But it was a mustang and we are talking about toyotas so it might work, because the mustang only lasted 3 minutes with water and I had a guy tell me he ran his 22R an hour without oil an it still worked.

 

[denniswoo]

if you have a high mileage engine i would not recommend flushing.but if you do remove the valve cover and remove any sludge and wash the rest down with cleaning solvent or diesel fuel.and the fella that said he had a ******* tell him to mix 2qt of diesel with motor oil if you feel like you have to flush your engine,i would use that method before i would use any of the others on the market.diesel has a high oil content and mixes well with motor oil and will offer good protection with friction while you are flushing.just flush with it for about 15/30 minutes then drain fill with clean oil,run and drain again.it will clean as good if not better and you wont get as much smoke afterwords.i would recommend using some sort of high mileage oil or Teflon product.