[CBZED101]

So i was at work today, driving normally, and all of a sudden my transmission started shifting really hard, almost like it had a shift-kit or something similar. This concerned me so when I had a chance I checked the fluid. Dark brown and strong burnt smell. Yay....
I let the car sit and cool down before I left work to drive home and when cool the transmission was shifting beautifully. I'm going to change out the fluid in the morning and I'm hoping it'll fix my issues.

Any one had this happen to them before? I always figured if the transmission was going bad, or the fluid was bad, the shifting would be very sloppy feeling, not really firm like there was a shift kit installed....

 

[pmx007PL]

Change your oil !!!

You forgot mention what kind of gear box do you have (automatic, manual)?

Automatic transmission is sensitive device.
It behaves different if there is not enough oil, too much oil, if oil is new and different if it's old (black crap).

There always should be proper level (measured on working engine and Parking gear, after swithing through all positions PRND2L -> L2DNRP) of not so old oil (better not use cheapest mineral like Mobil ATF220).

In A140 A/T (5S-FE engine) oil pan stores about 2-2,5 liters (whole transmission about 5-6 litres). So if you just drop and refill, it will be partial oil change, and it's good in this situation (repeat this change 2-3 times in distance of 1-2 weeks). It's also recommended to drop oil pan and change oil filter.

I had similar problem and oil change did the job (on picture: old, burned oil comparing to new).

If you are there already, always check also level and condition of differential oil (most people don't give a damn about it).

 

[CBZED101]

Thanks for the reply and pics. My fluid defiantly looks like the old fluid in your pics. I know in the DIY section theres a procedure for changing out all the fluid at once, but since my Camry's logged nearly 213,000 miles and I have no clue of the maintenance history (bought for $600 from lady who didn't know jack about it ) I figured doing a flush would completely shock the clutches and would burn it up. I figured I'd do just a drain and re-fill a few times over the course of a few weeks, like you mentioned, until the fluid has returned to a healthier shade of red. I'm glad you had the same problem and changing the fluid fixed your problems, gives me hope that my transmission isn't on its way out . Before it started doing the rough shift it was shifting beautifully.

 

[carsrus]

Thanks for the reply and pics. My fluid defiantly looks like the old fluid in your pics. I know in the DIY section theres a procedure for changing out all the fluid at once, but since my Camry's logged nearly 213,000 miles and I have no clue of the maintenance history (bought for $600 from lady who didn't know jack about it ) I figured doing a flush would completely shock the clutches and would burn it up. I figured I'd do just a drain and re-fill a few times over the course of a few weeks, like you mentioned, until the fluid has returned to a healthier shade of red. I'm glad you had the same problem and changing the fluid fixed your problems, gives me hope that my transmission isn't on its way out . Before it started doing the rough shift it was shifting beautifully.

Drop the pan the first time and clean it up and make sure there aren't any chunks in it.

 

[fenixus]

I agree with above posters. what car you have? gen3 or gen4 4 cylinder? or maybe a V6 (which one)?
I'm assuming it is about 2.2L (A140E transmission).

also if it suddenly started overheating and burning oil I think there might be restriction somewhere (strainer or trans oil cooler?).

I would confirm that there is actually oil circulation through the trans cooler lines. identify which one is outbound and which inbound (e.g. by unplugging them from trans, connecting clear 3/8'' vinyl hoses and routing them to bucket, start a car for 5 seconds, shut down and check which one has oil in it).
once you know which one is which, unplug the vinyl hoses from trans and plug the rubber outbound (one that flows fluid out of transmission) back in place and leave the other one (return hose) unplugged on the transmission end, make sure the cooler hoses at the radiator are connected securely and not collapsed, etc.

start the car for 5 seconds and see if fluid flows out returning from radiator cooler to the bucket (would be returning to transmission normally if hose plugged back in place). if all OK, connect hoses securely back in place.

Then I would drain the whole thing, drop the pan (get the gasket and strainer kit from auto parts store) by removing 15 bolts and clean up all the crud/sludge/dirt, replace the strainer (3 bolts) with a fresh one and install new pan gasket. reinstall using 1/4'' torque wrench (can get it from HFT) using manual torque, do NOT overtorque anything!

refill with some good fluid, do NOT use pure conventional (dino) oils, they do not last for long. get at least SuperTech Mercon-V (Dex-III compatible) or any synthetic blend like Castrol Import Multi Vehicle or Valvoline MaxLife.
should take no more than 3qts

as posted above don't forget to change the differential oil, it sits in a separate chamber on A140E transmission. should take 1.7qts to drain and refill it.

check Camry FAQ sticky on top of this forum for DIY covering it.

 

[CBZED101]

Sorry guys, its a 1993 5S-FE Automatic with roughly 213,000 miles and absolutely no known history.

Thanks for the responses guys. I don't own a good jack or any jack stands and I'm nervous as hell under my car using the stock jack provided with the car so I didn't want to be under there to remove the pan, but I just did a simple drain and refill. I drove the car around for a while and while its cool it was shifting beautifully, all the shift points were right, down shifting perfectly, acting just like it should, but after driving around for about 40 minutes or so it started to do the hard shift again, but this time its acting like it doesn't want to go into 2nd gear, and once it finally does its very rough, and then afterwards it seems to go into 3rd and 4th too early and also slightly abruptly. So I think your right fenixus, I'm guessing its not flowing fluid through the cooler. Seeing as how I rely on this car to earn a living, I really really cant afford for it to go out on me, so I'm contemplating just taking it to a shop and having it looked over. Only problem I have now is how will I afford rent this month if it costs me more than a $100 to fix this.

 

[fenixus]

understandable, good luck!

 

[CBZED101]

Ugh...its Saturday and all the transmission shops are closed, or their "transmission mechanics" are off until Monday :facepalm:. Looks like I'll be borrowing a jack stand from a friend and dropping the pan / checking for fluid pressure on the cooler lines. I priced a new "heavy duty" cooler from Auto zone and for $59 I might as well go for it, considering I deliver pizza's and do 90% of my driving in stop-and-go traffic and drive her fairly hard on a daily basis.

Also, I believe my transmission isn't the original now due to some paint-marker markings on the top of the tranny behind the dipstick. Now I have no idea where this transmission came from or how many miles are on it. Don't know if thats a good thing or a bad thing.

 

[fenixus]

if you have HFT around you then it's the cheapest source of tools:

a) 2t compact jack $25.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-floor-jack-66725.html

b) 3t jack stands $24.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tands/3-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-38846.html

c) 1/4'' torque wrench $19.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html

 

[CBZED101]

Awesome, didn't realize HFT was that inexpensive. Might be worth a drive down there, 2 jack stands for $24? I believe we have one here, I'm in San Antonio, TX. Pretty big city, we have almost everything so I'm sure theres a HFT hiding somewhere.

Cool, theres a HFT about 5 miles from my apartment. Guess I know where I'll be in a few minutes. :-D

 

[fenixus]

I've got almost all tools from them
can't beat their pricing, especially when you sign up for coupons, either in paper brochure they send to your home address or electronic newsletter with coupons you can print :thumbsup:

best brands over there are Pittsburgh, Central Hydraulic/Electric, Centech, etc. They also carry lots of small things you will find them, prepare for around 2 hours sightseeing when you enter the store for the first time

 

[pmesfun]

Ugh...its Saturday and all the transmission shops are closed, or their "transmission mechanics" are off until Monday :facepalm:. Looks like I'll be borrowing a jack stand from a friend and dropping the pan / checking for fluid pressure on the cooler lines. I priced a new "heavy duty" cooler from Auto zone and for $59 I might as well go for it, considering I deliver pizza's and do 90% of my driving in stop-and-go traffic and drive her fairly hard on a daily basis.

Also, I believe my transmission isn't the original now due to some paint-marker markings on the top of the tranny behind the dipstick. Now I have no idea where this transmission came from or how many miles are on it. Don't know if thats a good thing or a bad thing.

Here is a filter kit from Oreilly Auto Parts
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/PTQ7/FK282.oap?keyword=at+filter+kit&pt=03230&ppt=C0023

The cheapest fluid you can get is Super Tech ATF(~2.80qt at Walmart)

 

[pmesfun]

Awesome, didn't realize HFT was that inexpensive. Might be worth a drive down there, 2 jack stands for $24? I believe we have one here, I'm in San Antonio, TX. Pretty big city, we have almost everything so I'm sure theres a HFT hiding somewhere.

Cool, theres a HFT about 5 miles from my apartment. Guess I know where I'll be in a few minutes. :-D

Yup great prices for basic tools. Hey...SA, my brother is down there, he goes to UTSA. I should be driving there next weekend.

 

[fenixus]

also, if you still have problems with transmission on hot car, I suggest you let the ATRA specialist have a look at it. Ask one of them if they could drive your car with you in passenger seat and see how it feels. they are experts repairing automatic transmissions daily on all sorts of cars.

http://www.atra.com/

find the one close to you and set electronically appointment when you need it. you can also call them up and talk about your problem, but they usually respond to emails too.

 

[CBZED101]

:clap:

That store was amazing. It was packed so I didn't stay for too long, but I'll defiantly be going back to sightsee on another day.

Back on topic - I've driven now almost 60 miles total since doing the drain and re-fill and the hard-shifting only happened that one time after the fill...I'm kinda confused now as the transmission seems to be shifting flawlessly now. I guess, now that I've got the tools I'll go ahead and drop the pan...but it seems odd that its shifting so nice now. I'm wondering if my issues will come back once I go back to work...

edit: BTW I'm using Valvoline Max-life ATF fluid, just in case anyone was wondering.

 

[pmesfun]

Good stuff and fluid. Are you going to the diff also?

 

[CBZED101]

Good stuff and fluid. Are you going to the diff also?

Thats the plan, figured if I'm under there might as well, couldn't hurt. I read that you need a syringe to fill it though? Not too sure where to get one...

 

[CBZED101]

also, if you still have problems with transmission on hot car, I suggest you let the ATRA specialist have a look at it. Ask one of them if they could drive your car with you in passenger seat and see how it feels. they are experts repairing automatic transmissions daily on all sorts of cars.

http://www.atra.com/

find the one close to you and set electronically appointment when you need it. you can also call them up and talk about your problem, but they usually respond to emails too.

Luckily theres an ATRA certified shop 2 miles from my APT. If my problems persist I'll take it by there. Thanks for the link. :thumbsup:

 

[fenixus]

glad you liked it :thumbsup:

it's a good sign (no more harsh shifting) :thumbsup:
it means that new fluid mixed completely with the old black crud that stayed in system (drain & refill replaces only about 1/2 fluid capacity, another drain & refill gets you to around 3/4 new fluid, next one 7/8 and so on).

I would suggest draining it again, dropping the pan and replacing strainer (and cleaning the pan of sludge) and installing new gasket. You will have smooth trans in no time

strainer (3 bolts) uses 84in-lbs
IIRC, on of them is longer than others so remember where it goes. there is also a metal clip holding the wire, you need to bend it out gently to release and then on new strainer to bend it down to hold the wire.

torque on pan bolts (15 total) is 43in-lbs
tighten them little by little first with ratchet (starting with corners, just make them snug) and then make 2 runs on all of them and tighten to specs, re-check all of them once done.


don't forget you still are supposed to drain and refill the differential too
I'm sure there is some nasty stinky black fluid in there. good tip, before you drain it, first see if you can loosen the fill plug (17mm or so on the rear side of differential)

 

[CBZED101]

...don't forget you still are supposed to drain and refill the differential too
I'm sure there is some nasty stinky black fluid in there. good tip, before you drain it, first see if you can loosen the fill plug (17mm or so on the rear side of differential)

haha, yeah, I'd hate to drain it and then find that I cant break the fill plug loose.