[fenixus]

I agree with above posters. what car you have? gen3 or gen4 4 cylinder? or maybe a V6 (which one)?
I'm assuming it is about 2.2L (A140E transmission).

also if it suddenly started overheating and burning oil I think there might be restriction somewhere (strainer or trans oil cooler?).

I would confirm that there is actually oil circulation through the trans cooler lines. identify which one is outbound and which inbound (e.g. by unplugging them from trans, connecting clear 3/8'' vinyl hoses and routing them to bucket, start a car for 5 seconds, shut down and check which one has oil in it).
once you know which one is which, unplug the vinyl hoses from trans and plug the rubber outbound (one that flows fluid out of transmission) back in place and leave the other one (return hose) unplugged on the transmission end, make sure the cooler hoses at the radiator are connected securely and not collapsed, etc.

start the car for 5 seconds and see if fluid flows out returning from radiator cooler to the bucket (would be returning to transmission normally if hose plugged back in place). if all OK, connect hoses securely back in place.

Then I would drain the whole thing, drop the pan (get the gasket and strainer kit from auto parts store) by removing 15 bolts and clean up all the crud/sludge/dirt, replace the strainer (3 bolts) with a fresh one and install new pan gasket. reinstall using 1/4'' torque wrench (can get it from HFT) using manual torque, do NOT overtorque anything!

refill with some good fluid, do NOT use pure conventional (dino) oils, they do not last for long. get at least SuperTech Mercon-V (Dex-III compatible) or any synthetic blend like Castrol Import Multi Vehicle or Valvoline MaxLife.
should take no more than 3qts

as posted above don't forget to change the differential oil, it sits in a separate chamber on A140E transmission. should take 1.7qts to drain and refill it.

check Camry FAQ sticky on top of this forum for DIY covering it.

 

[fenixus]

understandable, good luck!

 

[fenixus]

if you have HFT around you then it's the cheapest source of tools:

a) 2t compact jack $25.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-ton-compact-floor-jack-66725.html

b) 3t jack stands $24.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...tands/3-ton-heavy-duty-jack-stands-38846.html

c) 1/4'' torque wrench $19.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-2696.html

 

[fenixus]

I've got almost all tools from them
can't beat their pricing, especially when you sign up for coupons, either in paper brochure they send to your home address or electronic newsletter with coupons you can print :thumbsup:

best brands over there are Pittsburgh, Central Hydraulic/Electric, Centech, etc. They also carry lots of small things you will find them, prepare for around 2 hours sightseeing when you enter the store for the first time

 

[fenixus]

also, if you still have problems with transmission on hot car, I suggest you let the ATRA specialist have a look at it. Ask one of them if they could drive your car with you in passenger seat and see how it feels. they are experts repairing automatic transmissions daily on all sorts of cars.

http://www.atra.com/

find the one close to you and set electronically appointment when you need it. you can also call them up and talk about your problem, but they usually respond to emails too.

 

[fenixus]

glad you liked it :thumbsup:

it's a good sign (no more harsh shifting) :thumbsup:
it means that new fluid mixed completely with the old black crud that stayed in system (drain & refill replaces only about 1/2 fluid capacity, another drain & refill gets you to around 3/4 new fluid, next one 7/8 and so on).

I would suggest draining it again, dropping the pan and replacing strainer (and cleaning the pan of sludge) and installing new gasket. You will have smooth trans in no time

strainer (3 bolts) uses 84in-lbs
IIRC, on of them is longer than others so remember where it goes. there is also a metal clip holding the wire, you need to bend it out gently to release and then on new strainer to bend it down to hold the wire.

torque on pan bolts (15 total) is 43in-lbs
tighten them little by little first with ratchet (starting with corners, just make them snug) and then make 2 runs on all of them and tighten to specs, re-check all of them once done.


don't forget you still are supposed to drain and refill the differential too
I'm sure there is some nasty stinky black fluid in there. good tip, before you drain it, first see if you can loosen the fill plug (17mm or so on the rear side of differential)

 

[fenixus]

or use a funnel with a flexible 6ft long or so tube, a few $ in autozone. just secure them together with electrical tape or so, it won't leak too much.

Thats the plan, figured if I'm under there might as well, couldn't hurt. I read that you need a syringe to fill it though? Not too sure where to get one...