[Dr1324]

Well I made an ouch while reassembling everything after a water pump job in my driveway. It was going well until I had a bolt go bad on me while tightening. Got a whole set of bolts coming in for the water pump and tstat housing. Any tips on getting this sucker out?

 

[wtxbadger29]

You will need an eze-out bit to get the broken part of the bolt out. You should be able to find them at your local hardware or auto parts stores. Basically you drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt and use a left handed (eze-out) bit to reverse it out. After you get it out clean the threads and make sure they are okay with another bolt and it screws in okay. If it doesn't you will need to get the right size tap to re-thread the bolt hole.

 

[underthehood51]

You will need an eze-out bit to get the broken part of the bolt out. You should be able to find them at your local hardware or auto parts stores. Basically you drill a hole in the center of the broken bolt and use a left handed (eze-out) bit to reverse it out. After you get it out clean the threads and make sure they are okay with another bolt and it screws in okay. If it doesn't you will need to get the right size tap to re-thread the bolt hole.

He'll have to drop the engine out where that bolt is. No way a drill will get in there

 

[wtxbadger29]

With a ninety degree or flexible drill attachment he stands a chance of getting it out as an alternative to pulling the motor.

 

[underthehood51]

Look close. There is MAYBE 3 inches of space

 

[dcm0123]

It looks like there maybe enough of the bolt sticking out to allow you to use a pair of pliers or vice grips on it. Did you already try this?
If this went in easy there is a good chance a pair of pliers will work. If you bottomed it out or cross threaded, an easy out may or may not work.

Another option is put a nut over it and weld the center hole to the stud.
Then back the nut out. This may have a better chance than an easy out if the bolt jammed on the way in.

 

[Tripplec]

You might want to talk to a few garage mechanic, even show them the photos or better ones taken. Find one with experience and have them do it for you. You'd have to have it towed to them no doubt. If you slip and drill into the casting its likely unrecoverable. It certainly tricky. To me them black bolts are usually hard steel. I an not sure how you managed to twist it off if they were. It aluminum casting they're in.

 

[Tripplec]

A lesson to others doing repairs etc even wheel lugs. ALWAYS thread them several turns by hand, this ensures it threaded in correctly. Many nuts/bolts will turn in cross threaded around a turn or so depending on the thread used before stopping. This is an indication its cross thread. Back it out and realign and rotate again. This step cannot be rushed. IMO

 

[inmars]

If there's any part of the bolt sticking out you may have some luck with a bolt extractor. It wouldn't require any drilling just a little patience.Best of luck.

 

[Edmhighland]

Agreed, try one of these reverse extractors first, before welding a nut.

Even if you could get a drill in there, good luck trying to start the hole. Look like you already tried with vise grips.

 

[BobCT]

While you still have something left, I would leave it alone. You have bolts above and below the one in question and basically an alignment dowel left in the broken hole. I would use a very thin bead of Right Stuff sealant (great adhesion) on that side and call it a day. Clean everything with acetone and put a little extra on what's left of the bolt and it'll be fine.

The water pump doesn't require a huge amount of mechanical fastening, it's mostly to compress the gasket so it doesn't leak. Since you'll still have every other bolt, using some sealant to compensate should do the trick. You could try and "clamp" (wedge a piece of wood) in that area overnight to give it a little bit of extra pressure. Think how hard it is to remove something that has sealant and all the bolts are removed. You'll only be missing one.

 

[fjguercio]

Well I made an ouch while reassembling everything after a water pump job in my driveway. It was going well until I had a bolt go bad on me while tightening. Got a whole set of bolts coming in for the water pump and tstat housing. Any tips on getting this sucker out?

Well Dr,

The Thermostat Housing have a very low torque spec. My V6 3MZ is 11 ft# and you can get that with a screwdriver.
While "TIGHTENING" the correct torque value and torque wrench was not used. Shame.... I say this so if you do get it out on your own.... will not make the same mistake. This is aluminum block so you can screw up both sides..... I like to gather the torque specs and copy to one document so it is quick to get and do not have to search all over manuals. I work on classic cars and the "replace" parts are hard to come by.

Looks like you tried plyers or vice grip on the threads sticking out?? Looks to be a "slid off" mark on the threads. Did you try to lock on with vice grip?

What engine is it.... maybe top parts can be removed to complete work-------- IF NECESSARY
What are your skills? Gotta know to try and help or time to get a mechanic to pull threaded stud and completed thermostat and hoses????

What tools do you have?
Do you have dremel tool, do you have welder, there are "female" extractors, map or propane torch, reverse twist drill bits????? Do you have good quality drill bits, 4 - 4.5" grinder.
Do you have tap & die set with metrics? Do you have experience using it?
I have not had the best results with extractors and if you snap off drill bit or extractor.... it is hardened metal in hole

I just did this work on a t 1994, I even was surprised how low the thermo housing torque spec was. The NEW gasket does not need much force to seal. No reason for RTV use.... just makes it harder for the next time work is needed. WHY were you doing this work?

IF you have some of the tools above can guide to a few ideas that will work
YouTube will have ton of video on extractions.... but it you screw it up can make it much harder to have a mechanic remove the threaded stud snapped off. Keep in mind you snaped off the steel and mounted in aluminum..... we do not want to damage the base part any more than necessary. I would not run a tap in the threads of base metal.... that would just cut more metal out and may not be necessary.

 

[fjguercio]

Your Thermo Housing for 2GR is 9ft# even lower than mine. Watch the 2gr movie from the Car Care Nut will show you a great deal of info. Get back to me with the questions above and maybe can guide you to a DIY removal with out a lot of risk

Toyota Sienna Service Manual: Reassembly - Engine unit - 2Gr …

Toyota Sienna Service Manual: Reassembly - Engine unit - 2Gr-fe engine control system - Engine

www.tsienna.net

WebTorque: 13 N*m (130 kgf*cm, 9 ft.*lbf) (h) Install a new gasket to the thermostat. (i) Align …

This will have a lot of knowledge of the 2GR from TheCarCareNut

 

[Tripplec]

Wow, pretty low torque. But bolts should not twist off anywhere near that level. I don't what sort of gasket is used on these. I don't like paper ones I have seen years ago when I have changed T-stats, never trust them to seal long term.

 

[fjguercio]

The Toyota Thermostat & Housing is sealed by the rubber gasket going around the outside of thermostat. Should be new replacement when you go in there. Using a 3/8" ratchet would not be uncommon to see 30-45 ft # and snap it right off. If only saw 10ft# it would have come out on the install it would just come out easy.

Need to hear back from Dr.

 

[JimV8]

Welding a nut on a busted bolt is a very effective removal method.

 

[dcm0123]

While you still have something left, I would leave it alone.

I was going to suggest the above but was not sure what kind of remarks I would receive. It is worth considering. The only difference is they make special gasket adhesives (sealants) for use with cooling systems. If the one he recommended is not specifically for use with coolant, I would use the one Permatex offers.

I have not had good luck drilling bolts out without having the drill walk off center. It will be even harder if you have limited access and you may ruin the casting as noted above.

If you do not want to try what BobCT recommended, your best option may be to take it to a mechanic and see if a nut can be welded on it. Since you have some material sticking out, I think this is a good option.

Permatex 22071 Water Pump and Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket, 0.5 oz., 0.5 Ounce , blue

Buy Permatex 22071 Water Pump and Thermostat RTV Silicone Gasket, 0.5 oz., 0.5 Ounce , blue at Amazon. Customer reviews and photos may be available to help you make the right purchase decision!

www.amazon.com

 

[Tarsun2]

file down 2 sides to get a better grip on it...?
weld a nut on it...? (assuming you have a welder).
leave it and seal it up...? (and pray it dosent leak).
use the socket bolt extractors..?

you have some options

 

[fjguercio]

Hey Dr, are you there?
I asked about tools and knowledge base??

Little base knowledge start..... see the shinny parts of the Thermo Bolts.... shows it was stretched and over torqued. Always try and get the torque values of the engine you are working on.... Heads, Thermostat, Rods, Mains, these things have a torque process of sequence and torque value. I also have a gen guide of torque values for SAE bolts in different grades w/ dry and lube. When I work on steel & aluminum mix of fasteners.... I will always use zinc antiseize to keep galvanic corrosion at bay so the next time will come apart. Just the way I do it and I keep my cars for a long time and see my classic cars staying around for a long time.

Tools & Knowledge....
Did not want you to buy or borrow tools if you do not know how to use. Also if you damage the area more it may need to come off the engine to fix by a shop?? Who knows and did not want to throw guesses.

The area of Thermo Housing is not easy to reach... and lots of wires and such that can get damaged. When I was first learning to weld... wanted to put a axle and wheels on a pressure washer.... I tried to keep the weld splatter from damaging the paint. Did not have a weld blanked but used the best I had.... it caught fire, there was damage, and scared the crap out of me as I put out the fire. I also want to keep as much of the stud whole so there is something " to work with". I do not want depree and metal shavings in the thermo housing hole.... it could take out the water pump. Always good to keep stuff clean and take steps so the work can be done in the future again.

I am going to guess your hands are full.... possible repair?
Tap on the threaded stud with a small hammer LIGHTLY. Tap into the hole, then up/down, then left/right. This is to loosen up the bolt & aluminum threads. It appears to be, guess, it was over torqued. This will loosen the forced metal bond with steel and aluminum hole. Can put a small amount of penetrate oil and let sit for a bit. Come back in hr ?and tape with small hammer LIGHTLY again. Drop or two of penetrate again. Here are two paths. Even this small amount of oil can make welding a nut on top more difficult to stick.

IF you have room... these small vise grips have saved me a few times in small spaces. IF you can get on the threaded bolt at a right angle. Can work back and forth till the threads loosen up again. Try and get very close the base of threads. Try to set the tightness on the snaped off bolt. Get ONE shot at this if it slides off then stop. If you can get a good bite this may work. Can use propane torch to heat the hole, it expands the hole, lessens surface bonds, and can help in the threaded stud removal.

Great little tool to have... can put rubber hose over the "grip area" and use to close off fuel lines and other hose.

Dremel tool.....
Harbor Freight has small diameter diamond wheels..... they cut just about anything. The diamond grit wheels are about 1/2 - 3/4 in diameter and very thin, would guess .020 to .025". CAREFULLY put a slot in the snaped off threaded bolt. The idea is get a slot into the solid part of threads and keep the metal removal and damage at min. This will allow you to remove with a full width thin blade screw driver. May need to thin down the screw driver with a file to fit better. Machinist and gun screw drivers often have non taper to them for example. Again... small movements tight, loosen, tight loosen, and see if this starts to move. Cutting the slot will also heat up the fastener. Can use propane torch to heat the hole, it expands the hole, lessens surface bonds, and can help in the threaded stud removal.

Both of these are SMALL FORCES and small tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen, to see if moves. Need to leave as much of the snapped off threaded fastener as possible. If does not come out..... will need more assist most likely.

For other options the top of snapped threaded fastener would need to be ground flat. True for drill out so you can fish out the bolt threads out of hole, or a hole so a reverse drill bit or easy out can be attempted. Once the hardened device is used.... heating the hole with a propane torch would be recommended also to make the hole bigger. These like to snap off in the small sizes and leave a hardened slug in the bolt..... This has happened to me a few times with the china junk extractors purchased when I was very young.

Stuff a rag into the Thermo Hole to keep out debree. Could also tape off with masking tape.

If you get to this point.... may need the help of a shop
Welding a nut does work... it also has a lot of splatter. Splatter can do a lot of damage.
Oil can keep weld from sticking... very small OD fastener, often just like to twist off...
Part of this repair/removal is the heat & cool of the metals to break the bond.
Small projects can grow like this one...
Just do not want to have another project growth spurt.
Do you have a update?

 

[fjguercio]

your fastner is metric
I used a SAE chart because that is what I have, and SAE still clicks better in my mind....
Just to keep the spam at min.