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So I did my bed extender today...

1473 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  LRH
9
...I got it from TRDParts4U.com, super quick shipping and decent prices. It arrived and wasn't here five minutes before I started installing it haha. So here's the pics. By the way, mine's an 08 Off-Road Access Cab. The instructions were super easy and the whole install took about twenty minutes. Just make sure you have a 6mm drill bit (and drill, duh...), a 10mm socket wrench, and a T-20 Torx bit. The scariest part is pulling the taillights out of the way. After you remove the two 10mm bolts, they're held in by little clips, and you really gotta put some pressure on them to pop them loose. No biggie, it's just scary 'cause you think you're gonna break them lol. I was worried this might not fit with my Access Ltd cover, but as you'll see, no issues at all.

The goodies, right out of the box...


The victim, sorry it's dirty. If we ever get to see any temps above 0 maybe I'll wash it...


In place, in the "hold small items" configuration...


To change it to "hold big items" configuration, all you gotta do is rotate it. Too easy!


In the "hold big items" configuration...


Still plenty of access to the electrical port, in any configuration...


Damn right...


And, finally put to use...


We have clearance, Clarence...
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1 - 8 of 8 Posts
By choice, most of the gucci gear crap is more pretty than functional. Nothing beats an external frame ALICE pack when it comes to ruck's.
nah man, blackhawk assault packs. I still remember the old rucks we used when I was in ROTC, most uncomfortable things ever, granted they held a lot of stuff.
Have installed quite a few of these over the years, and you can delete the removal of the taillights if you use a drill stop; if the bit goes ~ 1/4"-3/8" through the sheet metal, it will contact the rear of the lamp assy. I could not find my drill stop last time, so I just slipped a small length of vacuum hose over the drill bit. I also used rivets (black) in lieu of screws.
Then how would you get the nut on the back of the screw?
I used pop rivets, as almost all other manufacturers do. When you buy the kit from Amp Research, you get nuts/bolts for some vehicles, self tapping sheet metal screws for vehicles that have thicker metal than the Toyota where the brackets mount. Kits sold to GM and Ford use rivets, and lots of installers use rivets on most all vehicles, so I used black rivets with some 3M seam sealer on the holes to stop corrosion. Looks a little more like a factory install with rivets. Looks better, and no need to remove tailamp assy's.
EDIT: I think the nuts/bolts are for the alternate location that uses the 90º brackets, I think the small phillips head sheetmetal screws are what is supposed to be used when mounted on the vertical uprights directly inside the tailgate area. The nuts/bolts will work just fine.
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
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