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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
I woke up at 7 this morning and began the process. I called it a day after 3pm. All and all it took a long time to only get the trunk done. You guys were right. I think I used a lot more than I thought I would on the trunk (greater surface area). I got only one layer done. I experimented with different ways of laying the deadener down and settled on cutting the material into 6" wide strips (or less) and cutting 2"-3" slits all around strips so it can easily go around curves and corners. Check out the pictures.

Before work begins. Sun just coming up. Notice the patches of dynamat around the speakers.



Some places I want to apply Great Stuff


Come to find out that Toyota used something like this back in the day. Here's a picture of some sealant I found on the roof under the visor. I didnt see it anywhere else though.


The hard to reach places. What is that sealant?


After 3 hours (one side done)


First Layer Done






If I dont have enough to go over the whole car twice I will make sure I finish cabin. I am not doing the doors or the trunk because I a decided a while ago to install aftermarket power locks and windows. I haven't found the ones I want yet so I will do deaden them after they are installed.

Tomorrow, I will start on the cabin.
 

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0111010010
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nice, its looking good. Be careful with the great stuff expanding foam, it looks like you bought the triple expanding kind. I would return it for the minimal expanding stuff, as most areas you'll be doing will not require much expansion. It is VERY strong stuff so be careful where you spray it. I would only use it on steel panels or frame because if you shot it behind a plastic trim piece, for example, it will probably rip the trim off/out. Anywho, just something to think about.
 

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So you are building a tank =) hahahah a silent tank =D

But its going to add about 30-40kg to the car's weight =P if not more lol. And bigger pieces are better as there is less over lap and less wastage. So go as big of a piece as you can when you put it down,

The other thing to make sure is that there is no air bubbles and that the whole sheet is STUCK down. Sound deadening works by adding weight so it has to be stuck down.

I did my 2 front doors, complete inner and outer door skins. Now it closes like an expensive european car lol.

Oh and make sure you clean off the panels you are sticking it to very well. Especially vertical panels. If you dont clean them, the sound deadening will fall off after a little while in the sun.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
I spent the all Sunday doing the back panel and the cabin. The back panel took forever! The rest seemed to go by pretty quickly because of the open/flat surfaces. I finished everything but the front drivers seat. Now everything has a good first layer. I will start the second layer this upcoming weekend. In the meantime I am using my roller and going over all spots everyday just to make sure there is good contact. Since the first layer is the most important (in terms of sticking to the body panel) I want to be sure to spend as much time as possible rolling it right. The second layer should be much better than the first. Here are pics as of Sunday evening....











At first I thought I wasnt going to have enuff but I see I planned right and will have enuff to do the trunk, cabin, and all 4 wheel wells with at least two layers.
 

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Oh and i hope you have marked off where all the clip holes are or it'll be fun trying to find them with that much deadening. Also, make sure that the clips still *clips* back on after the extra thickness. !!!!!!!
 

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98 Camry XLE V6
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lol after i got dynamat for my rear deck the clips dont really clip anymore but since the holes were kind of filled with the dynamat it kept the clips in there snug. But with all this stuff hes putting on his...lol who needs any covers...just show off the sound deadening.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The deading is going well. I'm just laying the second coat so no pictures today. I will post when I finish the second layer.
 

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I've been planning to do some sound deadening for quite some time. But when my Gen3 was broken into and the radio was stolen it gave me all the reason I needed to do the job. The dash was ripped apart leaving me no choice but to replace the ENTIRE dash board. Check out what those MFs did!



I took it as salt on the wound.

So this weekend I decide to get started on my project. I took the dashboard out and started taking out all the seats, carpet and trim. What you see below is the bare cabin.











After speaking with the good ppl at Elemental Designs I jus placed an order for 250 sq. ft. of V1-SE and 3 gallons of V3. That's 2 layers of v1SE and as many coats as 3 gallons will get me.

There was this guy who did the same thing for his Maxima using Second Skin products.
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=818

His undertaking was MASSIVE and inspired me to follow suit. This guy ordered 550sqft of sound deadening to do his car. I'm hoping with a superior product I will not have to do so much (edead v1SE is superior right!?).

I'm going to do a few mods before I deaden. Install my short shifter, camera, and wiring.

Then its on!

I'll keep you all posted.
Dude...years later I find myself in the same position with MY gen 3. Is spent 2 years installing a sound system and making it CLEAN...and it lasted a month before I left town and it was stolen and stripped. :::sigh:::
Like you did, I’m just going all in. At least they stole EVERYTHING. I hate demo.

to start, I pulled the front seats and cleaned the bare floor With acetone. The center console, door panels, and rear seat were already gone...so I was “saved” that part. Then, I used a whole GALLON of flex seal to coat the firewall and inside the doors in two thick coats, then spread the rest on the floor so as to level all imperfections, gaps, whatever.

When dry, I began molding various brands of duct insulation tape and roofing seam tape in alternating directions. Some had the layer of foil and was in essence BACKWARDS from what I’d need. That was solved using a little thinned contact cement through a cheap spray gun. Installed foil -down. Extra layers were added to firewall and interior of doors (reverse side of outside panel) until I ran out.

That’s where I’m at now. And folks can hate on my materials... but I Got all so far, for FREE...Courtesy of a local HVAC company dumpster after dark. Not only that, but ambient noise in car at 70mph averaged around 85 dB. Already it’s down to 67dB.

so yeah, dynamat can suck one at $100 for a 20ft roll, or whatever.
 

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I'd be interested in some pictures of this sound-deadening project. I might try and do something similar IF I end up getting this Wagon that I am Looking at.... (Long story)
 

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If you like, I can try to piece something together. Recently the Camry was stolen and stripped. Rear bench is missing, the carpet, front inside door panels, center console, ignition, glovebox, most of the dash, and anything audio related...Basically, they just ripped shit up to get at the goodies. Then dumped it.

they did some Mechanical damage as well, and I’ve spent the last three weeks figuring that all out. She’s better off, at least to where I can start piecing the inside back together. This provides me with the opportunity to photograph my the top layer of my “sound deadener” for y’all.

Wish I’d photographed the testing done the first time. I’d measured the interior decibel level at various speeds, and then again after I’d finished. Tremendous difference if done halfway correctly. While I know that the official materials also work very well and may perhaps be superior, some people don’t have that kinda cash when it’s convenient to do the job. And so we MacGyver....

Ive got 3-4 more rolls of the roofing/duct tape, that’s made of a rubberized asphalt compound with paper backing. Same as I used for the majority of what’s here already. It was free again, so I’ll add some layers to areas that might benefit. You’re basically using mass-loading to add weight to thin sheet metal, to prevent vibration and sound transfer/dissipation. This material serves the same purpose as it does with Dynamat. I find it to be sticky as f***, and so adhereslike dynamat.

Frost king ductwork tape (YouTube tutorials) has the metal skin just like dynamat, which has its uses. It’s also $20 a roll. So I used that I. The interior of my doors, which is by far the noisiest aspect of a Gen 3 camry. And of course, after installing several layers I then coated it all in Flex Seal (free gallon from a dumpster). Same as the floor, firewall, and under the rear seat. Will do the trunk eventually, also.

But stay tuned and I’ll lay out my adventures with it. Audioholics be damned, I firmly believe you can improve the sound quality in Your old ride without spending more than you did on the old tank to begin with. I’ve done it, can document the difference, and now 2 years later get to go back over my work and see how it all held up.

Oh, and I’m no expert on sound engineering. But I halfway can claim credentials. I was first certified in a 2-year program as a digital television production technicianwhile still in high school. I mainly operated the sound board of computer graphics during live shows. Then went to Virginia Tech to study aeronautical engineering and interned at the National Transonic Facility. A facility dedicated to my grandfather, America’s first rocket scientist (well, there were about a dozen) and the man who raised me. The Godfather of American Supersonic flight and retired Division Chief of Aeronautics from NASA. With him and the company he later founded (eagle Aeronautics) I helped design low noise propellers, and lastly a plane that can travel supersonic without creating an audible sonic boom on the ground... making supersonic travel over land legal and possible now.

Oh, and I sideline as a church sound engineer on weekends. So... yeah, I can figure my way out of a paper bag, and run a controlled rest of my results with reasonable accuracy. (Some dumb*** will cry you need $800 in FatMat, though)

be in touch
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