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Discussion Starter #1
Sorry 'bout this being my first post (again) but I'm still in a jam.

We fitted a water pump to a customers ST183 with 3FGE and my tech got the cam timing out by 2 teeth, no big deal. So I pulled the alternator and cover off and fixed the cam timing.

While the cover was off I started the motor (always did on 3SFE's to re-tension bolts before putting it back together) and it ran for about 10 seconds then stopped and wouldn't start again.

I checked all the bolts and the timing again and put it back together. Still wont start.

I checked the ECM codes and it had thrown code 14. The coil resistances are good and I tried the igniter on another Celica and it works.

I have checked as many connectors as I can find and have had a diagnostic tool on it and all I get is error 14.

Fuel pressure is good and battery is charged.

Now it only fires on cranking and wont keep running.


Anyone had and solved this sort of problem before?
Anyone have any ideas on what else to check?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The coil primary is 4.2 ohm and the Secondary is 12.41 Kohm

Pickup shows no sign of damage, what resistances should they have (it has 2 pickups)?

When it stopped it was like turning off the key, no missing or backfiring or bad running at all, just perfect one minute, stopped the next.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
The injectors are firing, then they stop (according to the test lamp)

So it looks like the fuel side is shutting down after initially firing.

Making a LED test lamp today to check the feed to the coil.


edit: Made the test light and it tells me I have ignition pulses to the coil on cranking.

edit2: The injectors pulse on cranking also, but stop as soon as the engine fires.

Why?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OK, So, I've changed distributor AND the ECU and it STILL throws error 14 and wont run for more than a few seconds.
The igniter has been tested on another car and works perfectly.

Anyone have any idea please???
 

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well start pinpoint testing on the wiring harness, had a camry once which wouldn't charge and had no speedometer signal. there was a broken splice inside the wiring harness from the ECM which was causing the whole problem. ran a new wire around the break (inside the dash) and all problems were solved. It could be as simple as that, be sure to also check the ECM pins for tightness and corrosion and the pins at the igniter.

I assume you have all the voltages and signals at the ECM and Igniter? just no spark or no injector pulse as well? are you getting power to the distributor all the time?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I tested the feed to the igniter and injectors had a good signal to both while cranking, right up until it actually fires, then the injector pulse stops and wont start again until the ignition has been turned off and on again.

The new(ish) ECU ran the car for a while, then gradually the running time got shorter and shorter until it's the same as the original ECU.

The only part of the wiring that got moved was across the top to the alternator. I guess I'll start there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
AAAAAARRRRRRGGGGGG!

The customers Wife just came in, the damn thing did this wont start/stalling thing the day before they brought it to us....................NOT MY FAULT!!!!!!

But I'd still like any input you guys can help me with please.

Thanx
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Would gladly send it to you, take about 3 weeks by boat but at least it would be out of my face.

Pulsing ground stops. Power is constant.
 

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I'm not 100% sure, I haven't messed with toyota's with igniters much. mine just had a dist and my newer one is coil on plug.
my guess would be yes though. I think the ecm sends a timing signal to the igniter which is what directly controls the coil...read the description and operation of the system on something like shopkey, all-data, mitchell ondemand and then go from there and check things.
 
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