[patliz1]

:help:I have a 91 2wd p/u with 242,000 miles on it. I went to start the truck the other day and it wouldn't start just clicked and clicked. Last year I replaced the starter contacts and it worked like a charm, so I know it is not the contacts. I checked the starter relay and it seems to be working.

I checked the clutch switch and when I test it with a ohm meter, it reads 0 with the switch out and when I push the switch in it goes from a number down to 0--question--is this normal. I would have thought as long as you are applying current it should not be 0. Is this switch bad?

I replaced the ignition switch--so I know it's not that.

How do I test if the starter is getting current to it from the ignition switch. I have read a few things, but it is not clear where I put the leads of the meter and what setting the meter should be on.

Is there anything else that I am missing in testing?

Thanks for any answers and Happy New Year!

Randy

 

[maxpower_hd]

Check the FSM at the top of the page. There is a testing procedure in there for the starter. It's also in the Chilton manual.

 

[Sidney]

20 Toyota (NipponDenso now called Denso) starter repair sites:

http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/toyota/tech/starter/ -
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml
http://char.tuiasi.ro/vw/reality/rogerb/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.html
http://yotarepair.com/startercontacts.html
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/88/starterrepair.htm
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter
http://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech/haveblue_starter/haveblue.htm
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_starter_rebuild.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/install.htm
http://www.startercontacts.com/images/OSGR_Exploded_view.jpg
http://www.colorado4x4.net/tech/starter_contacts/starter_contacts.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techneek/starter.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/start_bj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166530
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=27312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php?threadid=27312&forumid=10
http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Articles/Projects/starter/starter.htm
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/boophoenix/starter.html
http://www.tacomaterritory.com/boophoenix/starter/image01.jpg
http://www.team-integra.net/sections/articles/showArticle.asp?ArticleID=1079

Starter contact kits (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5263 (only two contacts)
Ace Electric # S-5264 (only two contacts)
Metro # 66-82104 (only two contacts) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Toyota # 28226-72010/80 (battery side)(also1KZTE-2LT-1KZT)
Toyota # 28226-72080 (8808-9108)
Toyota # 28226-16130 (9108-9308)
Toyota # 28226-55050 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-70040 (9308-9511)
Toyota # 28226-72040 (motor side if needed)
Toyota # 28226-72010 (8808-9511)
Toyota # 28226-74070 (9108-9511) (2000 Tundra & others)
Toyota # 28226-22050 (2000 Tundra & others)
Toyota # 28226-66060 (1993-1997 Land Cruiser 2.0 KW starters)

For others besides 22R series:

Toyota # 28226-54220 (motor side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130,LN108,112,85..4FC)
Toyota # 28226-54250 (Diesel Surf 2.4TD, contains a new end cover and gasket)
Toyota # 28226-54320 (battery side) (2LTE, 3L..LN13# IKZTE, 2L#, KZN130, LN108,112,85..4FC,3B-1HZ-BJ73-HZJ7#-1KZT-KZJ70)
Toyota # 28226-17030 (battery side) (1H#-HDJ80-HZJ80)
Toyota # 28226-56250 (battery side) (3B-1HZ-1PZ-PZJ7#)

Starter contacts only (8mm ID hole):

Ace Electric # S-5231
Ace Electric # S-5293 (crescent moon shape)
Ace Electric # S-5295 (crescent moon shape)
Metro # 66-82106 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Tons more at:
http://www.metroautoinc.com/PDF File/66-Denso Solenoid Contact.pdf
Toyota # 28226-70040
Wilson’s Electric # 45-29-652 (maybe it’s 45-29-6521)

Starter brushes:

AC Delco # D762
GP Sorensen # 255048
Standard # JX-117

Whether your starter uses two rectangular types or one rectangular and one crescent you can substitute with two squares or one square and one crescent so any of the above part #'s for those kits will be the right ones,or about half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages would sell aftermarket contacts for only $5 each or the pair.

If the brake and charge lights come on during revving of the engine then it's a sign that the carbon alternator brushes require replacing as this is the mileage for them to wear out. In alternators the brushes wear out on average every 140-170 000 miles where on the dashboard the brake & charge light both come on at the same time. About half of the auto electric shops in your local yellow pages sell carbon alternator brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts for about $5/pair.

Another way to verify that the alternator is not charging is while the engine is running bring a metal screwdriver or any metal object near the alternator and if the alternator is working properly then it should act like a magnet and grab the screwdriver.

For carbon brushes R&R:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/alternator_brushes
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/88/alternatorbrushes.htm
http://perso.wanadoo.fr/adherence.4x4/alternateur_kzj.htm
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=166525
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/showthread.php?threadid=27270&forumid=10
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26734&highlight=alternator+brush+holder
http://www.bitwalla.com/cruisers/articles/alternator.html
http://www.barneymc.com/toy_root/techtalk/electric/altrnatr.htm

For decoding the dashboard lights:

http://www.powerbase-auto.co.uk/alternator_faults.htm
http://members.1stconnect.com/anozira/SiteTops/energy/Alternator/alternator.htm

Here are part #'s for Toyota alternator carbon brushes and copper solenoid starter contacts which are used in about 95% of all Toyota vehicles.

Toyota alternator Brushes with holder:

Toyota # 27370-35060=$29 CDN
Honda # 31105-PZ1-003
Metro # 39-82003 (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Unknown brand name # F4019-53035

Alternator brush only (qty:1 brush unless otherwise stated):

AC Delco # E724
AC Delco # E731 (side wire and concave tip)
Ace Electric # DA-61 (brush only),S-5367 (brush holder)
Beck Arnley # 178-1669 (side wire and concave tip)
Beck Arnley # 178-1376
Borg Warner # X580 (side wire and concave tip)
Canadian Tire # 19-2050-6=$4.49/pair
Daihatsu # 27370-87302-000
Daihatsu # 27371-63020-000
Daihatsu # 27371-87501-000
Daihatsu # 27371-70300-000
Echlin # E601=$8.16 CDN/pair (UAP/NAPA)
Echlin # ECHE601
Echlin # EC480
Echlin # ECHE480
GP Sorensen # 255047 (side wire and concave tip)
GM # 94123056
GM # 96054118
Honda # 31144-PD1-004=$9.72
Honda # 31144-PD1-0040
Honda # 31144-PD1-0030
Honda # 31150-PR7-A01
Honda # 31150-PTO-003
Hino Industries # 021660-0390
Hino Industries # 021660-0510
Isuzu # 8-94123-056-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-308-0
Isuzu # 8-97032-310-0
Mazda # 021660-0390
Mazda # 021660-0510
Mazda # KL47-18-W75
Metro # 38-82001(side wire concave tip) (www.metroautoinc.com ,Pomona,California)
Mileage Plus # E601SB
Mitsubishi # MD604474
Mitsubishi # 21660-0510
Niehoff # WA571 (side wire and concave tip)
NipponDenso # 021660-0390
NipponDenso # 021660-0510
Standard # JX-116 (side wire and concave tip)
Subaru # 021660-0390
Subaru # 021660-0510
Suzuki # 31631-82610
Suzuki # 31656-82611
Suzuki # 021660-0510
Toyota # 27370-42010
Toyota # 27370-75060
Toyota # 27371-63020=$5.80 (up to 9105) (side wire and concave tip)
Toyota # 27371-70300=$5.20 (9105-9511)
Toyota # 27371-76004-71
UAP/NAPA # MPEE601SB
Victory Lap # FAX57=$4.49 CDN/pair (Canadian Tire)
Wilson's Electric # 26-29-7534 (side wire and concave tip)=$2.20 each CDN (Diesel Auto Electric)(Parts for Trucks,box of 10 for $3.40 CDN)

Specifications:
Length=15 mm
Width=7 mm
Thickness=5 mm
Lead length=49 mm

These Honda alternators are the same except the pulley must be swapped:

1986-89 Honda Accord (Carb),the EFI can be used but the voltage reg must be swapped
1990-93 Acura Integra

For alternator upgrade:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/100alt/index.html
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/alternator
http://home.earthlink.net/~twopapa/bigalt.htm

Any Public Library in your area would have the Factory service manual, Haynes,Chiltons,Mitchells,Clymers, Bentley and Toyota repair books.

Free AutoZone service manuals at:

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/repair_info/repair_guide/repair_guide.jsp

Free 1985 Toyota 4-Runner & pickup Factory Service Manual:

http://www.truckporn.com/tech/1985toyotatruckfsm.pdf

Free 1993 Toyota Pickup Service Manual:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm

Free 2003 (2001-2004) Toyota Tacoma Factory Service Manual:

http://www.junglecode.com/toyota/tacoma/2003_fsm
http://misc.mmdsi.net/tacoma/tacoma-manual

Free 1989 - 1995 Pickup Mitchell Service Manual:
You can download the winrar archiver from: http://www.rarlab.com/download.htm
And The ISO file can be downloaded from:
http://www.filecrunch.com/file/~ga05yg <--- Part 1
http://www.filecrunch.com/file/~tlgobs <--- Part deux
The two rar files are 90 Megabytes in size, but once unrared it is a 300 Megabyte ISO image.BTW: File will be removed automatically if there is no download for 30 days.

FSM (factory service manual) can be acquired in several ways:

Toyota Material Distribution Center
750 West Victoria St
Rancho Dominguez/Compton, CA 90220-5538
USA
Ph:1-800-622-2033 (outside CA)(M-F: 7-5 PST)
Ph:1-800-443-7656 (inside CA)
Ph:1-310-818-4630 (in or outside CA)
Speak to Beverly or Deloris
http://techinfo.toyota.com/public/main/mdc.html
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/FSM.shtml

1)buy a used one off e-bay
2)some Toyota dealerships may give you one or sell it for $10-20 (used) as most Toyota dealerships don't repair many old Toyotas and no longer need the service manual
3)some public libraries sell their old books as they are not in demand any longer
4)some free buy & sell classified papers, websites and bulletin boards may have some used ones for sale
5)some junk yards may have one laying around
6)some Toyota specialty garages may have one laying around and no longer use it as the vehicle may be too old and those mechanics probably have so much experience that they could publish their own factory service manual with corrections and "real world repair tips"
7)if someone has the FSM maybe they could scan all of the pages and post it on a site for all of us to download or view.

Sidney
E-mail:[email protected]
Dartmouth,Nova Scotia
Canada
1985 Toyota 4-Runner,solid front straight axle,factory cruise control,sunroof,22R-E,W56,RN60LV-MSEK,rusted rear step/towing chrome bumper with 252 000 KM

 

[patliz1]

Before I go pulling out the starter I wiuld like to know if the clutch switch is bad. When I test it with a ohm meter, it reads 0 with the switch out and when I push the switch in it goes from a number down to 0--question--is this normal. I would have thought as long as you are applying current it should not be 0. Is this switch bad?

 

[britton]

If the circuit is powered when you connect an ohm meter you risk frying the ohm meter. The ohm meter applies its own (very low) power to the circuit via the test leads. Most ohm meters can't handle 12v without frying or popping its fuse. Or am I confused and you are using a multi-meter (volt/amp/ohm) to measure the voltage?

I would think you should read infinite ohms when the switch is open and zero ohms when the switch is closed. Do you have the switch disconnected? If it is still connected then the meter is reading resistance through the rest of the truck wiring as well. There might be some capacitance in there which would give you a "count down" kind of indication.

If I was a betting man I would say it is much more likely that the starter is bad than the switch is bad. But if you want to be sure then you are on the right track. Starters are a quick change and having a spare on the shelf for when it does go wouldn't be so terrible IMHO.

-Britton

 

[Vicoor]

connect a jumper wire to the small connector at the starter and then make sure that the transmission is in neutral. then connect the other end of the jumper to the battery positive post and see if it cranks or just clicks.

Just so you know. The reason your mechanic will usually not just replace the contacts is that it is common to have subsequent problems with the starter. Seems that once the contacts are worn out you can expect that other components in the starter are also "tired"

 

[patliz1]

I pulled the clutch switch out to "bench test" it. I am going to test it again when the rain stops so I can get to the truck--it is sitting outside now because I couldn't get it back into the garage due to the slope we have.