Maybe Chevron will start to make "Techron, now with with Prozac."
Starts but wont run
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
When I got home tonight I tried to the car and it would just crank. I put 5 gal of gas in the tank tried to start it and it fired up. So how much of a pain is it to change the fuel pump? And how much longer can I plan on running like this? Thanks
1986 MR-2 N/A, 1991 Celica GT-S, 2005 Matrix XR, 2009 Matrix XRS, 2009 Matrix Base
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
I have to admit, I didn't expect that to work...you said the rear of the car was one foot higher than the front, which should be sloshing the fuel towards the pick-up on the sending unit, not away from it. Wierd.tybeejoe said:
Next time you're going up and down big hills, watch your fuel guage. The float for the guage is attached to the sending unit (as is the pump pick-up), and the guage goes up on down-hills and down on up-hills.
Replacing the fuel pump requires that you remove the tank. A bit of a PITA but not too bad, depending on the rust under there...
Not a foot actually about 6 in, it was on a packed snow part of drive way. I suppose I cant run my propane heater in the garage while doing this. :sosad: I guess ill have to heat it up to 90 before I start.:whatwhat: How long does it take to change out the fuel pump? Thanks
1986 MR-2 N/A, 1991 Celica GT-S, 2005 Matrix XR, 2009 Matrix XRS, 2009 Matrix Base
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
Well, if you've never done it before, prepare for an afternoon of work (epending on how rusty the underside of the car is). Dropping the tank straps isn't too bad, but getting the tank to clear the filler neck hose can be tricky.
Once the tank is out, all you have to do is remove the sending unit from the tank. I was wrong before, the pump is located at the rear of the tank and the float is closer to the front (I was thinking of my Corollas). So you'll need to remove the rear unit (the pump) by turning the slotted round flange until it pops-off the tank. Then you can remove the pump and slap your new one in...
All in all, if your Camry has been undercoated or the tank/pump has been replaced before, it shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 hours tops. If nothing under there has been worked on since the car was assembled in the factory, budget an extra hour or two for messing with rusty fasteners and for thinking-up new swear words to scream at the tank. :lol:
And don't feel too sorry for yourself! I do all my work in the snow, in the driveway, in -25 degree temperatures (Celsius). You get used to it...
Once the tank is out, all you have to do is remove the sending unit from the tank. I was wrong before, the pump is located at the rear of the tank and the float is closer to the front (I was thinking of my Corollas). So you'll need to remove the rear unit (the pump) by turning the slotted round flange until it pops-off the tank. Then you can remove the pump and slap your new one in...
All in all, if your Camry has been undercoated or the tank/pump has been replaced before, it shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 hours tops. If nothing under there has been worked on since the car was assembled in the factory, budget an extra hour or two for messing with rusty fasteners and for thinking-up new swear words to scream at the tank. :lol:
And don't feel too sorry for yourself! I do all my work in the snow, in the driveway, in -25 degree temperatures (Celsius). You get used to it...
Joined
·
3,126 Posts
Use two jack stands under rear. It could be helpful, if you will remove rear wheels. From inside the car, unplug the fuel pump and fuel sender connections. Pull off 1/2 inch vent hose and filler pipe rubber connector next to each other. Using two flare nut wrenches (I believe 17 and 14 mm) separate pump disharge hose from underbody delivery line. Remove small hose sections to the return line and line to the carbon canister. Label these hoses to avoid confusion. If any hose needs replacement, use SAE 30R2 or 30R3 hoses.
Joined
·
1,532 Posts
If it runs with fuel in the tank why not try to run it with your fuel tank over 1/2 full until summer when it is nice and cozy! My fuel pump lasted a lot longer than 90,000 miles. It seems more like a feed problem.
While you're in the tank consider replacing it all (pump, sending unit, float, filter screen, hoses, gaskets) with new Toyota parts if you plan to keep the car for long. The labor involved usually doesn't justify using cheap or used parts or leaving in old parts. Don't forget Doctor J's point about the connecting hose.
Kep
While you're in the tank consider replacing it all (pump, sending unit, float, filter screen, hoses, gaskets) with new Toyota parts if you plan to keep the car for long. The labor involved usually doesn't justify using cheap or used parts or leaving in old parts. Don't forget Doctor J's point about the connecting hose.
Kep
1986 MR-2 N/A, 1991 Celica GT-S, 2005 Matrix XR, 2009 Matrix XRS, 2009 Matrix Base
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
Good luck. At least you have a covered garage to work in! :clap:tybeejoe said:
If you put in an inline pump, and you have the hose problem mentioned above, you won't get a good draw inh the tank, and you may also not get a good draw through the old pump.
Sorry. :sosad:
Sorry. :sosad:
:whatwhat: I replaced the pump on Saturday, took about 2 hours and it was real easy to do. I ran it with a 1/4 tank and it ran fine, no problems yet. I filled up and will probably be a little worried when the level gets lower untill a couple of tanks. Thanks for everyones input!!! :clap:
I'm confused. Did you install the in-line or the in-tank pump?
1986 MR-2 N/A, 1991 Celica GT-S, 2005 Matrix XR, 2009 Matrix XRS, 2009 Matrix Base
Joined
·
1,490 Posts
Crappy white-box replacement stuff...sorry, I'm assuming here, but many aftermarket items like this are less than reliable. I would be more comfortable taking a used factory pump out of a scrap yard car than buying a new one that wasn't from Toyota. But that's just me.
And no, you generally should not hear it working. Especially with a tank, metal body, and cushions/upholstery to deaden any sound. The only time I hear mine is after I've shut the car off, for about two seconds. It's a very subtle humming sound.
And no, you generally should not hear it working. Especially with a tank, metal body, and cushions/upholstery to deaden any sound. The only time I hear mine is after I've shut the car off, for about two seconds. It's a very subtle humming sound.
Generally, I agree. The OE pump is usually better, AND quieter, than a Napa/pepboys/autozone/ etc pump.
However, my sister had an OE chevy pump installed in her astro van, and it was noisier than the original pump. Sometimes, it's the installation that allows for more noise to be heard, as well as the quality of the pump itself.
However, my sister had an OE chevy pump installed in her astro van, and it was noisier than the original pump. Sometimes, it's the installation that allows for more noise to be heard, as well as the quality of the pump itself.
Great now you guys tell me! LOL. Ive never had bad luck with Napa. No its not a humming sound and im not sur its the fuel pump, since the noise is comming from around that area and I just replaced it im a little assuming. Also I just moved it in the garage cause its supposed to snow again and its cold outside. When I went to start it it seemed to take longer to fire up then normal. It wasnt that bad to replace but I dont want to do it again. And now im a little scared to drive it. But what can I do now.:sosad:
I'd drive the car as much as possible for 30 days and then think about the experience. How difficult is it to start the car? Have you looked at all of your maintenance items? Have you replaced your fuel filter in the last 100 k miles? Checked the cold start injector according to the online manual?
Try to determine the "what" and "where" of the noise; don't assume. And, don't be bummed out now. Working on your own car is a journey of discovery. Some of the lessons cost a little money and time, and some of the things you will do yourself will save some of both.
You made a diagnosis and you took action. At least you sought out some opinions before you acted, so you increased your chances of success. You can feel good about that.
Now, pay attention, and look to whatever else needs to be done to make the car run like it should. And, enjoy it. :thumbup:
Try to determine the "what" and "where" of the noise; don't assume. And, don't be bummed out now. Working on your own car is a journey of discovery. Some of the lessons cost a little money and time, and some of the things you will do yourself will save some of both.
You made a diagnosis and you took action. At least you sought out some opinions before you acted, so you increased your chances of success. You can feel good about that.
Now, pay attention, and look to whatever else needs to be done to make the car run like it should. And, enjoy it. :thumbup:
I just re-read the whole thread. Let me stop for a moment and take an overview, and offer some professional advice.
First, what did you do in terms of following up on your codes?
Did you do the fuel pump volume test before declaring it "bad?"
Did you determine that you had a good spark when the car was failing to start?
I ask these questions because I discourage people from going down the road of parts replacement in place of good diagnostics. It's an added expense, and not a good as finding the root cause and making a workmanlike repair.
Before replacing anything else (outside of a known needed maintenance item, like a fuel filter that's due for replacement) make sure that it is a causal factor and not just a good guess.
First, what did you do in terms of following up on your codes?
Did you do the fuel pump volume test before declaring it "bad?"
Did you determine that you had a good spark when the car was failing to start?
I ask these questions because I discourage people from going down the road of parts replacement in place of good diagnostics. It's an added expense, and not a good as finding the root cause and making a workmanlike repair.
Before replacing anything else (outside of a known needed maintenance item, like a fuel filter that's due for replacement) make sure that it is a causal factor and not just a good guess.
41 - 60 of 66 Posts
